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ABS Removal

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Bchiles

10+ Year Contributor
35
0
Jul 20, 2010
Lake orion, Michigan
I am about to remove my ABS system on my 92 factory 6 bolt, I have all of the factory proportioning valves, but I am running custom lines. Any suggestions or tips that people ran into I have read the threads already but also willing to hear some extra tips.
 
to give some more info they are still the stock calibers. Not sure if that makes a difference but figured the extra info can't hurt.
 
I just got done removing mine. And I also did the SS lines to all corners. It looks sexy as hell now.


I would highly recommend a set of flare nut wrenches. I went to the junkyard to look for the prop valve and experiemented to see how hard it was going to be to remove the flare nuts with a regular 10mm. After stripping 3 of them I decided it would be a good investment to get the right tool for the job. Remember that the rear steel lines will be reused with all abs deletes I know of so if you strip those I can pretty much guarantee you will be cursing at the sky.

The removal is pretty straightforward but if I were to do it again I would just cut the lines. It was an absolute nightmare to try and remove hard lines with the engine in and 40 things in the way on the firewall. After all that I still cut the driver side hard-line. I guess i'm not as patient as other people. I chose to do the braided because I really didn't want to spend all day snaking a hard line in after my junkyard experience but that's my personal preference.

I took the advise from someone else and didn't tighten my prop valve down all the way until I had the lines in. This let me get a better angle so connecting it all together was easier.
 
Thanks for the heads up on the wrenches but fortunately I have a stupid amount of open box, flare nut, adjustable, ratcheting, etc..... wrenches. Benefit of having a dad that does tool and dye. I will definitely be using the SS lines and I my good friend who does hydraulic work will help me run the lines. Fortunately my intake manifold is currently removed so plumbing the lines is a hair easier.

Thanks for all of the help I hope to post some major upgrade thread questions soon!
 
While you have the fittings apart, put a small amount of anti-sieze on the threads. Be careful not to over do the application and dont get any inside the line. Same with the bleeder while you hae them loose to bleed.
 
I just used factory front non-abs lines on mine, no need to reinvent the wheel. That and the proportioning valve and the two hard lines to the master cylinder are all you need. The abs pump and wiring removal gets you a pretty nice weight reduction too. Don't forget the abs computer and wiring harness behind the passenger b-panel.
 
This seems to be a common mod but could someone please inform me why? :hmm: Given a DSM's light weight one would think that without it the brakes would lock-up very easily under a panic stop thus tearing up your tires [flat spot]. I also doubt that the abs components weigh very much so the savings there would be minimal, and legally the brakes have to be engineered to work if the abs fails so it is highly unlikely that the abs is hurting braking performance unless you want to reduce overall stopping distance but then you are running the risk of scrubbing the tires as mentioned before.
 
And it's proven a good driver can stop faster than abs can stop a car .

What are you basing that claim on? I know I sure can't modulate the brakes as well as a properly set up and functioning ABS system can at near lock up. I don't claim to be the best by any means, but I'm not a bad driver.

It's a safety system first and foremost, but anyone who isn't an absolute expert driver with a gutted tin-can race-only car also will stop quicker with it. Everyone thinks this is such a great mod, I just can't agree with it. Especially for a full interior street driven car. Too many idiots on the road. Sure there's benefits on a lightened drag-only car, but almost any other form of motorsports you'd be better off to have some sort of ABS than not. You lock the wheels, you lose control. All it takes is a split second gut reaction stab on the brakes to break the static traction and now you're sliding at speed.
 
All I can say after owning and driving 1G AWD cars with well maintained, properly functioning, factory brakes, one with ABS and the other without, the ABS car was downright scary and did not want to stop. The non ABS car would stop far better, and felt far easier to control and if I tried to brake in the ABS car the way I did in the non ABS car, the former would not stop. That said, I am of the belief that this is only on a 1G DSM, the 2G has a much better ABS system, and I have been trying to find out how the 1G ABS would fare with a significant upgrade to the brakes, like a TCE Wilwood, Stoptech, EVO Brembo or even 3KGTVR4 brake kit with good pads, but I cant find anyone who hasnt just ripped the ABS off their 1G without even trying to see what a brake upgrade would be like first. Id love to have a good ABS on my Laser, but it didnt come with it, and while I do have all the parts to put ABS on the car, I wouldnt waste my time unless someone who has a 1G with ABS and a real brake upgrade ever shows me significant benefits first.
 
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