A few important questions on priming a oil pump on a dsm

[codeofdastreets]

I been doing alot of reserch but really cant find the answers im looking for about priming the oil pump on my new built.

The motor is on the motor stand and im waiting for the rest of the parts to finsh it up ( oil pan, cams, cam gears, oil pick up).. I recently installed the head on the motor. Now here is the questions. I want to assemble the front case and oil pump and mount it on the block to get this done, but the motor will be sitting for about a month before I can prime it for oil because im waiting to get some money for the rest of the parts I need. For the time the motor will be sitting would vaseline be fine in the pump?? or should I use sometype of greace? and if so what type exactly?

Ok now a Month passes and all thats left is timing (still on the stand). Id like to prime the pump at this point ( just is the long block no turbo, 4 1/2 qts of oil in the motor, oil feed from oph is plugged, drain on oil pan has a 10an cap to just insure no oil spills, and oil feed on the head is open to make sure im getting oil since this is the highest point of the motor and last to recive oil)..I prime the pump with drill clockwise and get oil to the head.Then after do timing and drop in the motor no trans since I need to get a clutch and want to get a fresh rebuild on my trans.

Another say month or more passes, I recieve my clutch and rebuilt trans I install it and im ready to fire the motor up. ( month or two passes since I originally primed the pump, with oil still in the pan) Should I turn the motor over again with mpi fuse out to get oil back up to the head to make sure everything is good?? Then start it up???

 

[Black'95]

Yes. I always crank it over for a couple minutes (not continuously!) before starting it to make sure the oil gets circulated.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Go ahead and 'prime' it just to be safe. There is another method, though, opposed to turning the rotating assembly at all. I personally prefer it. Dry parts grinding against each other dry just sounds bad to me.

1: Remove the nipple on the back of the intake manifold that the Brake Booster connects to
2: Remove the Oil Pressure sending unit (Bell)
3: Screw the Nipple from the intake manifold into the threads where the Oil Pressure Sending unit was
4: Using a hand pump (Purchased from any parts store), pump about 2 quarts into this nipple with the aid of a rubber hose
5: This will move oil through the system safely. When you see oil come up to the head, stop.
6: Replace the Nipple on the back of the intake manifold (Clean of course) as well as the sending unit
7: Your engine is now primed.

 

[blktalon3]

I just put a new oil pump on my car along with some other stuff. Mine sat for probably close to 2 months before I actually fired it up and it did fine. I used grease in mine and before I started it, disable the fuel pump and cranked on it for a min or 2 (not continuosly), and it did fine. Fill the filter up before you put on also.

 

[codeofdastreets]

I just put a new oil pump on my car along with some other stuff. Mine sat for probably close to 2 months before I actually fired it up and it did fine. I used grease in mine and before I started it, disable the fuel pump and cranked on it for a min or 2 (not continuosly), and it did fine. Fill the filter up before you put on also.

Nice what and were did you buy the greace at becuase auto zone has alot of diffrent greaces

 

[bryanwheat]

IF you have the timing belt off than just use a drill on the oil pump sprocket. That is by far the best way to prime it.

 

[blktalon3]

I'd have to check to be sure, but i think it was hi temp bearing grease, it was red i remeber that for sure

 

[My1GLaser]

If the oil pan is on and the pickup tube is submerged and the gasket is good then it probably kept most of its prime and should be ready to go. My car has been sitting on jackstands for a couple months. I drained the oil and then a few weeks later pulled the oil pan. When I broke the bolts loose to the pick up tube, oil rushed out and got all over my hand. WTF Didn't know it would still have oil in it after that long with an empty pan...

If the timing belt is still on and the motor is in the car then you can just bump it over for 10 sec at a time a few times. At 250 rpms it really doesn't pump that much oil anyway and you are better off just firing it up. It takes a long time to get oil up to the head at starter rpms. At 1k rpms the oil pressure shoots up in seconds. I packed mine with Vaseline and cranked it and had pressure in less than 5 seconds. That's what assembly lube is for.

 

[codeofdastreets]

IF you have the timing belt off than just use a drill on the oil pump sprocket. That is by far the best way to prime it.

this is what I had in mind once the motor is assembled, timing is last.

I'd have to check to be sure, but i think it was hi temp bearing grease, it was red i remeber that for sure

if you can find out the name and brand that would be great

If the oil pan is on and the pickup tube is submerged and the gasket is good then it probably kept most of its prime and should be ready to go. My car has been sitting on jackstands for a couple months. I drained the oil and then a few weeks later pulled the oil pan. When I broke the bolts loose to the pick up tube, oil rushed out and got all over my hand. WTF Didn't know it would still have oil in it after that long with an empty pan...

If the timing belt is still on and the motor is in the car then you can just bump it over for 10 sec at a time a few times. At 250 rpms it really doesn't pump that much oil anyway and you are better off just firing it up. It takes a long time to get oil up to the head at starter rpms. At 1k rpms the oil pressure shoots up in seconds. I packed mine with Vaseline and cranked it and had pressure in less than 5 seconds. That's what assembly lube is for.

This was good to know, and is helpfull, as long as I prime the pump the dry parts become lubbed in oil, so once the motor is in a few cranks to just make sure the pump is doing its job wont hurt, better to be safe then sorry when you have 6 grand in a long block.

Go ahead and 'prime' it just to be safe. There is another method, though, opposed to turning the rotating assembly at all. I personally prefer it. Dry parts grinding against each other dry just sounds bad to me.

1: Remove the nipple on the back of the intake manifold that the Brake Booster connects to
2: Remove the Oil Pressure sending unit (Bell)
3: Screw the Nipple from the intake manifold into the threads where the Oil Pressure Sending unit was
4: Using a hand pump (Purchased from any parts store), pump about 2 quarts into this nipple with the aid of a rubber hose
5: This will move oil through the system safely. When you see oil come up to the head, stop.
6: Replace the Nipple on the back of the intake manifold (Clean of course) as well as the sending unit
7: Your engine is now primed.

I"ve seen this on another thread, defenity is helpfully infomation, thanks for the input

 

[codeofdastreets]

any part number and exact name for the greace used on the oil pump for priming?

 

[bryanwheat]

The grease isn't used for priming. IT used for lubrication on startup to prevent the pump from locking up. I just coat everything with oil while assembling the pump. After the pump is mounted and oil pickup in place i will take and pour a little oil down the pickup and turn the pump until it starts to come out the oil filter housing hole. From there i put the pan on. When you go to prime it with a drill it will have all the lubrication that it needs.

 

[codeofdastreets]

The grease isn't used for priming. IT used for lubrication on startup to prevent the pump from locking up. I just coat everything with oil while assembling the pump. After the pump is mounted and oil pickup in place i will take and pour a little oil down the pickup and turn the pump until it starts to come out the oil filter housing hole. From there i put the pan on. When you go to prime it with a drill it will have all the lubrication that it needs.

intresting, this is all done obviously on a rotating motor stand, with the oil pan side up correct??

 

[JacksonAuto]

Turning the oil pump with a drill is the best way. Do this with the valve cover off and a mechanical oil pressure gauge hooked up so that you can verify that oil is circulating properly and that there is sufficient pressure. We typically see 70+ psi when using this method.

If the engine is in the car and using a drill is not a feasable option, use this prelube tank from Goodson. It will inject pressurized oil through all of the oil galleys. Also do this with the valve cover off and verify that oil is coming from all HLA's. GOODSON : Engine Building Tools and Supplies

 

[gprix1]

If the engine is in the car and using a drill is not a feasable option, use this prelube tank from Goodson. It will inject pressurized oil through all of the oil galleys. Also do this with the valve cover off and verify that oil is coming from all HLA's. GOODSON : Engine Building Tools and Supplies

Actually, you can use a drill with the engine in the car. I've done it several times. Just use a long enough extension on the nut driver with your drill to clear the frame (6" or so). You may have to loosen the drivers-side engine mount to let the engine hang down a little on that side for more clearance but you definately can do it. You most likely have it off anyways since you still need to install the timing belt. Also, you can leave the valve cover on and just remove the oil cap to see the oil squirting from the rockers.

 

[ed1380]

any part number and exact name for the greace used on the oil pump for priming?

I use this for all my rebuilds. Any metal on metal contact is lubed.

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My engine sat for a couple months after being assembled with that. I cranked it over for a minute(unplugged injectors) and at startup oil pressure jumped too 100 right away. I wouldn't waste time doing anything extra. Lando and I started our engines the same day and he did all the extra stuff with the drill because he paid as much as you for an engine. but he almost spun a rod the next day. Point being is that all the extra priming doesn't hurt, but it becomes a waste when the shop messes up.

 

[JacksonAuto]

Actually, you can use a drill with the engine in the car. I've done it several times. Just use a long enough extension on the nut driver with your drill to clear the frame (6" or so). You may have to loosen the drivers-side engine mount to let the engine hang down a little on that side for more clearance but you definately can do it. You most likely have it off anyways since you still need to install the timing belt. Also, you can leave the valve cover on and just remove the oil cap to see the oil squirting from the rockers.

I did not say it isn't possible. I said "if it's not feasable" because a lot of times people may not want to remove the timing belts and all to spin the pump.

 

[Heartless]

Im siding with JacksonAuto on this, best not to be lazy and pull the timing belt regardless if its in the car or not and prime the system. Its never worth having metal to metal contact from setting even when just cranking the engine over. Yes alot of people use the cranking method of priming but that doesn't make it the best option.

 

[DSM1G90]

We primed up a 6G72 oil pump by taking a squirt bottle full of oil and attaching a length of vinyl tubing to the end.

Then, removing the sending unit and squirting the oil in the hole to fill the oil pump cavity and filter, then putting back on the sending unit. When we hit the key, oil was pumping immediately.

You can do the same with the 4G series motors.

 

[gprix1]

I did not say it isn't possible. I said "if it's not feasable" because a lot of times people may not want to remove the timing belts and all to spin the pump.

I am not going to get into a pissing match and there are no "sides" here. Straight from Webster's site: fea&#183;si&#183;ble - capable of being done or carried out <a feasible plan> .
Put "not" in front of "feasible" and the meaning is: not capable of being done. I was responding to what was said based on the definition of the words used. No offense was intended on my part. If your intent was to say it's impractical, then yes, you could say it's a bit more work putting the timing belt on in the car rather than on the stand.
Personally, after degreeing in my cams on the stand, I pull the belt and save installing it for the last thing I do before starting the engine. This way I get a good prime on the oil pump just before it's getting started. Maybe I'm paranoid but I don't like how much time there is between the engine being on the stand and actually starting it in the car.

 

[evileagleawd]

Turning the oil pump with a drill is the best way. Do this with the valve cover off and a mechanical oil pressure gauge hooked up so that you can verify that oil is circulating properly and that there is sufficient pressure. We typically see 70+ psi when using this method.

If the engine is in the car and using a drill is not a feasable option, use this prelube tank from Goodson. It will inject pressurized oil through all of the oil galleys. Also do this with the valve cover off and verify that oil is coming from all HLA's. GOODSON : Engine Building Tools and Supplies

^ This is pretty much what I do. I use the pre lubricant NO. 105. Leave the t-belt off. Install the motor. Fill the motor with oil. Then hit the oil pump with a drill for a few seconds. Wait till the oil gets to head.

 

[TSITurbo95]

Install the motor, and prime the pump using a drill, then put on your timing belt. . . simple as that.

 

[codeofdastreets]

what would the diffrence be with the vaseline vs the assembly lub?? or is it just prefrence??

 

[My1GLaser]

I used Vaseline to pack the oil pump cause it is petroleum based.

I use assembly lube on all the rotating connections inside the engine inside the engine when I assemble it.

I assume you could use it in the pump also.

I changed my oil & filter after running it for 20 min at 2k in the garage, so all that crap was out before I took it out for the break in runs.