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99GS: What to do first

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rezalas

Proven Member
47
0
May 26, 2013
Shawnee, Oklahoma
Background: I've wanted to own a stock eclipse (97-99) for a very long time and finally had an opportunity to purchase an old 99 GS from a local individual. The car is in poor condition with only a few modifications (replacement rims, exhaust, CAI) which is what I was looking for (it's a project for me as well).

Issues: The problem I'm having is where to start really. I know it can run (I drove it 34 miles home) but I also know it idles rough and has black residue that it left on my driveway after running for a few minutes. The interior is damaged severely (broken pegs and brackets, lock cylinders laying in the doors, what smells like angry hobo sex in the seats) so I'm certain it needs replaced, but I'm also certain that the engine needs a lot of work (the engine compartment has signs of previous oil leaks). I definitely want the smell gone, but I'm not sure if I should spend time doing that if I'm going to have new parts sit there for months while I'm toiling away fixing whatever hate crime was performed previously on the engine.

Goal: I'd like to rebuild the car up to a showable quality vehicle. I'm not talking about competing, but I'd like to have something I can enjoy and work on in my spare time. I'd like to hear any views on where to start to reach this goal, and perhaps any suggestions for a good way to plan this out. I've been reading the forums and already have the manuals bookmarked to continue reading through them (there's a ton of info to learn).

Side note: I'm a software engineer and network architect by trade and not a mechanic, so I'm admitting up front that I have a lot to learn. If I missed any info that you need please feel free to let me know and I'll provide anything I can.
 
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Try using some screw drivers to help push the rods in. Its not easy and is a pain in the ass. REMOVE THE WINDOW GLASS! I didn't do that one time when i was replacing a lock cylinder and the screw driver slipped and tapped the edge of the glass and it shattered into a million pieces... literally. Usually i use a hand from the inside of the door to hold the rod in place, and then use a flat head going in through from where the window comes out with the other hand to pop them in place.

Okay, the drivers side door handle and window is complete - and that was a huge PITA just like you said. I spent a few hours yesterday getting everything out and back in. Fixing the handle with it out probably took up 10 minutes of that. I ended up using a 1/2" socket extender to gently tap the rod a few times and knock it into place (I didn't have a long enough flat head as you suggested).

Edit: By the way, the window is a bit unbalanced - do you know an easy way to change the window tilt adjustment?

I'm going to go ahead and organize a journal I think. I'm finding more issues as I go along (the prev. owner seems to have shattered the glass once, as the door has plenty still in it) including the locks not wanting to engage when turning the cylinder via key (it looks like there's too much play on the engaging rod).

With the exception of basic maintenance this is my first true attempt at a car restoration, and thus far it's fun (but incredibly frustrating).
 
Yeah you still havnt identified if your car is a 420a or 4g63. They both are dohc one has aTurbo the other doesn't. What side of the engine bay is your timing belt on?

I'm at work at the moment so I can't go look, but I believe it's located on the left (passenger) side. I spent a bunch of time in the bay looking over my wiring around the battery (I had to pull the steering wheel and airbag) and don't remember seeing the belt on the drivers side at all.
 
I'm at work at the moment so I can't go look, but I believe it's located on the left (passenger) side. I spent a bunch of time in the bay looking over my wiring around the battery (I had to pull the steering wheel and airbag) and don't remember seeing the belt on the drivers side at all.

What side was your intake on?
 
Is there a way to remove the factory seat covers without completely ruining them? I've never really looked or needed to on the eclipse. But on a car in the past I was able to undo the factory seat covers and wash them in the washer and air dry. I did this on my vw after someone decided to puke in my passenger seat and all down the door. It also allowed me to wash and disinfect the actual cushions... that's where the smell will come from.

If you can't pull the covers I'd suggest dunking the tire seat in a big trash can with a cocktail of cleaners/detergents and water and scub the hell out of em. Then set em out in the sun for a couple days. You can also pull the carpet and do the same if its really bad, but you will have to remove the trim on almost the entire interior for that. But that will give you the best results aside from only cleaning the surface. Most stains and smells go deeper than just the cover...

Edit, if it were me, I'd dunk em in a garbage can full of water with a cup oxy clean, a cup of laundry detergent, then wash, rinse, spray with a disinfectant while they are still wet to let it absorb and let dry.... I'm assuming this odor is coming from pet/mold/sweaty drivers for the last 15 years. Thats how I'd attack it. If it smells like lysol after then its time for some fa-breezio.... haha
 
Is there a way to remove the factory seat covers without completely ruining them? I've never really looked or needed to on the eclipse. But on a car in the past I was able to undo the factory seat covers and wash them in the washer and air dry. I did this on my vw after someone decided to puke in my passenger seat and all down the door. It also allowed me to wash and disinfect the actual cushions... that's where the smell will come from.

If you can't pull the covers I'd suggest dunking the tire seat in a big trash can with a cocktail of cleaners/detergents and water and scub the hell out of em. Then set em out in the sun for a couple days. You can also pull the carpet and do the same if its really bad, but you will have to remove the trim on almost the entire interior for that. But that will give you the best results aside from only cleaning the surface. Most stains and smells go deeper than just the cover...

Edit, if it were me, I'd dunk em in a garbage can full of water with a cup oxy clean, a cup of laundry detergent, then wash, rinse, spray with a disinfectant while they are still wet to let it absorb and let dry.... I'm assuming this odor is coming from pet/mold/sweaty drivers for the last 15 years. Thats how I'd attack it. If it smells like lysol after then its time for some fa-breezio.... haha

The factory seat covers come with zippers along the back, so I believe the cover can be removed. I've stripped out the back seat and parts of the seat panels and door panels thus far (I need new door automatic panels badly, prev. owner broke everything on them) and I believe I've located the smell. The back seat has some thick pool looking stains (ahem) and since I removed the back seat I can sit in the car without gagging.

If anyone knows of someone good with upholstery I'd love to replace all the fabric in the back seat.
 
Edit: By the way, the window is a bit unbalanced - do you know an easy way to change the window tilt adjustment?

Just loosen the two bolts that secure the window to the regulator, Then adjust the window and tighten the bolts. Roll it up and down and to see if its straight or not. Once you get it perfect then go ahead and put everything back together.
 
Oh nice :thumb:

I wonder if the hatch seal is leaking above the back seat and filled it with water, then it would be mold. Not that uncommon, I actually noticed mine was leaking this winter and dealt with it before it did anything crazy. But my seat was soaked and was frozen one morning when I went out, haha.

If its mold I'd suggest ditching it altogether and start a search for a new one.

I'd call around to local upholstery places if you want your interior redone. Most local places around here do a good job. I certainly wouldn't want to ship 4large boxes of seats very far if someone recommended a place a good distance from you.
 
Just loosen the two bolts that secure the window to the regulator, Then adjust the window and tighten the bolts. Roll it up and down and to see if its straight or not. Once you get it perfect then go ahead and put everything back together.

Thank you for the info, I'll give it another shot tonight after I figure out what kind of spline driver I need to buy so I can change all the breaks. The list on the car keeps growing. Unfortunately I think I can't start a journal until I've passed 30 posts and 30 days - good news is, I can't afford more parts until the 25th so I have more time to plan!

Oh nice :thumb:

I wonder if the hatch seal is leaking above the back seat and filled it with water, then it would be mold. Not that uncommon, I actually noticed mine was leaking this winter and dealt with it before it did anything crazy. But my seat was soaked and was frozen one morning when I went out, haha.

If its mold I'd suggest ditching it altogether and start a search for a new one.

I'd call around to local upholstery places if you want your interior redone. Most local places around here do a good job. I certainly wouldn't want to ship 4large boxes of seats very far if someone recommended a place a good distance from you.

You have a good point, though I'm not sure if there are any places like that in Shawnee Oklahoma (doubtful). I might be able to find something in OKC though - it's worth a shot at the very least. I don't think it's mold but I also can't rule it out until I strip it down and check. I do know that the seal isn't leaking, I was lucky in that regard.
 
Well then it must be hobo sex residue...

Not to sway your plans, but any reason to keep the back seat instead of cleanly deleting it? I have a 2 year old in a car seat, she's even getting to big to tote around in the back with a passenger in the front seat. When she gets too big for the eclipse back seat ill be 2seater only, with a flat panel from the trunk (like the full trunk box) then extends forward down on an angle to the back of the front seats. Ill probably hinge it too, to be able to store some small stuff under it out of sight.

Just a thought if you wanted your clean "custom" :thumb:
 
Well then it must be hobo sex residue...

Not to sway your plans, but any reason to keep the back seat instead of cleanly deleting it? I have a 2 year old in a car seat, she's even getting to big to tote around in the back with a passenger in the front seat. When she gets too big for the eclipse back seat ill be 2seater only, with a flat panel from the trunk (like the full trunk box) then extends forward down on an angle to the back of the front seats. Ill probably hinge it too, to be able to store some small stuff under it out of sight.

Just a thought if you wanted your clean "custom" :thumb:

That's a good question, and I've been considering my options. Thus far, the reason I haven't wanted to delete it is because I'd like to make the back into a convertible bed when I fold the seats down. It would come in handy camping (rain proof ftw!), and I like having the extra seats if I want to take a few people with me somewhere.

That being said, this is the third car we own (my daily driver is a 2011 mustang) and 100% a project / dream car (cheap dreams I've been told), so I don't have to rush into anything if it breaks down or whatnot. I'm open to any suggestions you have.
 
That's a good question, and I've been considering my options. Thus far, the reason I haven't wanted to delete it is because I'd like to make the back into a convertible bed when I fold the seats down. It would come in handy camping (rain proof ftw!), and I like having the extra seats if I want to take a few people with me somewhere.

That being said, this is the third car we own (my daily driver is a 2011 mustang) and 100% a project / dream car (cheap dreams I've been told), so I don't have to rush into anything if it breaks down or whatnot. I'm open to any suggestions you have.

Sounds like a good project to throw some short collapsible legs under. Then you'd have one (somewhat big) flat surface, when your done camping fold it back down to an angled transition :thumb:

Just for another idea.

For what its worth, the last time I had both my brothers in the car, the one in the back seat had to sit sideways with his feet on the seat... but we are all 5'11"+
 
The following are engine pics that I haven't had time to upload. I had a chance to check out the spark plugs and wires and they are (from what I'm told) the stock plugs and wires that came with the car from the factory.


When I bought the car initially the steering wheel was obviously placed on incorrectly, as it was 90 degrees right of zero. I had to pull the airbag and reinstall the steering wheel properly. In the picture below you can see it right after pulling the airbag out. The wheels are straight in this pic <.<
 

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how do you not know if it has a turbo or not? :ohdamn:

I knew it wasn't turbo. I said I didn't know if it was a 4G63 or a 420A or not. However, I know it's a 420A now based on what I've read on the history of the 4G63 and based on the information I've read on the 420A here on the forums.
 
yup defintly looks like a 420a, so you planning on building it? boosting it? unsure the plans for your build thread...

Until I have met the 30/30 mark for posts I can't post up a build journal (or can I?), so I'm still deciding what I'd like to do. I'm pretty certain though that I'm going to do an engine rebuild and try to get as much whp out of the engine as I can off pump gas. Based on what I've seen so far, I'd like to clean up the engine bay with a repaint / fill in and wire tuck. I'm already in the process of planning out my interior cleanup, and I've been getting the basics back in working condition (door locks would be a nice touch, for example).

I'm also planning on bringing some of my own personal experience in computers as well after checking out some of the audio and electrical work people are doing. I have a small beagleboard that fits in an altoid tin that I've added 500GB of storage to, and runs off 5v@460mA (plus a little extra for the ssd). I figure I can use it as a processing engine for audio / video as well as various other controls if I get adventurous. More importantly I'm hoping to use it to reduce the number of extra wires and such running all over the place by using wireless and NFC when possible, and they're pretty inexpensive little computers so the cost is super low.

If you want to check it out, BeagleBoard.org - BeagleBone Black

Ok, I've been concerned with a rough idling situation that hasn't cleared up despite flushes and basic maintenance, so I decided to get an OBDII tool and check the code that appeared. It reads as "System Adaptive fuel too lean, bank 1". From what I'm reading this can be caused by too much oxygen being found in the exhaust, but I'm not sure how to fix that exactly. Also I'm wondering if this might have been caused somehow by the warm air intake that was installed.

Any ideas on where to proceed? I'm going to keep searching the forums, but I have a feeling this is one of those issues caused by the creative engineering of the previous owner to get his exhaust to sound louder (and idle rough enough for a good massage).
 
After reading more forum posts I'm hoping it's just the O2 sensor needing replacement, but I'm going to go ahead and replace the plugs and wires while I'm replacing the O2 sensor. I pulled one of the plugs and it had some sort of charred debris on the gapping and around the head (looked like oil) so I figure it can't hurt to replace them and set the gap properly.
 
Its always a good start to replace plugs and wires on any newly acquired vehicle, especially older ones. Along with a basic fluid change and checkup on brake fluid, power steering fluid, coolant level and color.

The first thing I did on mine was spend around $200 for all the above, along with front o2 (had cel for front o2 when I bought it) for the most part its been pretty hassle free. Just a few jump to conclusion things that ended up being almost nothing compared to a major problem.

You can also check/ replace vac lines while you're at it, vacuum leaks can also cause problems like fuel/idle issues like you have stated.
 
Its always a good start to replace plugs and wires on any newly acquired vehicle, especially older ones. Along with a basic fluid change and checkup on brake fluid, power steering fluid, coolant level and color.

The first thing I did on mine was spend around $200 for all the above, along with front o2 (had cel for front o2 when I bought it) for the most part its been pretty hassle free. Just a few jump to conclusion things that ended up being almost nothing compared to a major problem.

You can also check/ replace vac lines while you're at it, vacuum leaks can also cause problems like fuel/idle issues like you have stated.

I replaced the plugs and wires over the weekend, and tomorrow I'll replace the front O2 sensor. I'm not finding an oil leak outside the engine at all, but there is still some black residue and/or smoke that comes from the tailpipe when the engine is revved up. I'm thinking that one of the gaskets could be leaking oil into the engine somewhere, possibly the cylinders (there was a black charred residue covering the old spark plugs).
 
Its always a good start to replace plugs and wires on any newly acquired vehicle, especially older ones. Along with a basic fluid change and checkup on brake fluid, power steering fluid, coolant level and color.

The first thing I did on mine was spend around $200 for all the above, along with front o2 (had cel for front o2 when I bought it) for the most part its been pretty hassle free. Just a few jump to conclusion things that ended up being almost nothing compared to a major problem.

You can also check/ replace vac lines while you're at it, vacuum leaks can also cause problems like fuel/idle issues like you have stated.

Well the good news is that after I did all that, the error went away. However now its started dying randomly and throwing a new error P0340 camshaft position sensor A circuit bank1 or single sensor. The info I've found suggests that it could just be the sensor needs replacement, but its weird that I just replaced the O2 sensor to get rid of the last issue.
 
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