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2G 98GSX, Was out logging, and it shut off, and keeps blowing 30amp main fuse

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stiggity99

10+ Year Contributor
231
4
Mar 31, 2011
York Haven, Pennsylvania
I was out getting some logs, and running errands, and I got into it with some sort of motorcycle... anyway, on the decell it shut off on me. Got it into a parking lot (don't ask me how I did it), and the main 30amp fuse was blown. Well, I took the 30amp fuse from the head lights, put it in, and the fuse slowly started glowing, and popped. Every 30amp unit that was close to the Main system, I tried and it popped each one.. Anybody??
 
Well, I forgot to mention. these 30amp fuses glow red, then pop in about 1 second... all of them. And I have no turn signals, nothing on the dash lights up. If I leave the key in the ignition, and open the door, it beeps. I cannot put my windows up, or shut my sunroof. I would say the body module is functioning, it's just everything else isn't..
 
been back 15mins now. Picked it up where I broke down. At least it's under an awning, and no one is going to mess with it. I have a lot of work ahead of me..
 
You also forgot to mention that GST with PSI suggested in your other thread that you take a look at the quality of your BATTERY RELOCATION to the trunk. If you want people to help you it is vital that you give us all the information, First and foremost check your cables running to the trunk of your car and SEARCH. There were several helpful suggestions on your other thread, and by no means are you the first person to have this problem.
 
19gsx91, True..
Well, my distribution block has a little side to side rock, but I doubt that was the issue. I pulled the 20amp MPI fuse, tested the terminals with a test light, and 1 was hot, and same with all of the other ones. I plugged the 20amp back in, then the sunroof 30amp, then the headlights 30amp, all good. Finally I plugged the 30amp fuse into the one that was blowing them.... and it didn't pop. Got in, turned my key everything lit up, CEL came on, then went out. ALL GOOD!! I did check the wires at the starter... all tight... I'm going to install some sort of grommet or rubber at the main grommet coming out from the passenger side floorboard. But, there is no shielding disruption where the 12volt battery wire comes through the firewall... I don't get it.. it's gotta be that distribution block.
 
19gsx91:
Yes, I felt the battery-wire, coming through the firewall to see if it was rubbing, or making contact with the chassis, and it looks good. I'm concerned about the Junction block... not sure where to get one, ive looked everywhere. The local "Speed Shop" opens tomorrow, so i'll give them a call and see what they have too say.
 
Then yeah that would be my next course of action.. When I was younger I had a 4 gauge setup for my sound system and the coating on the positive got cutand was grounding itself out and I kept blowing fuses.. I plugged a150amp fuse back in with power to the car and my body got the privilege to complete the electrical circuit. Don't recommend that. At all. Ever. Be safe out there.
 
LOL 8)
ive gotten _zapped_ by a sb chevy beefed up distributor for a 650hp Late Model, dirt track car... feels like you just got a vein ripped outta your arm.. :)
 
Put the new Junction-Block on and fired it up.... took it for a 10mile cruise, the moment I pulled into my driveway, it shut-off again. And I can put a 30amp fuse back into the IGNITION spot, and it doesn't blow.. but when I turn the key my lights light up, very dim, I can hear my fans come on, and then.. POP..
 
19gsx91, It operated flawlessly for 10 miles, of spirited driving!??!? there has to be a frayed wire somewhere... or it only blows the ignition fusible link when it gets to 200+F The first time it happened I was running 219F. This time I wasn't logging, but the CEL was NOT on... but it was plenty warm. If I'm using ECMLink, and have my fans come on ALL THE TIME, via Link.. where would you tap into the factory harness? I tried twisting the low+ and high+ together, ten LOW- and high- then fan 12+ to twisted low/highs, etc.. but it was blowing the fan fuse. Ended up _just_ using fan LOW+ and LOW- from the drivers side harness..
 
well.
I was looking in the vicinity of where we installed the TPS, and just so happened to notice a wire with a spade connector on the end, near the firewall/trans side. So I got the test light out, and sure enough it was Live!! and I remember taping it up 3 month's ago. I guess when my buddy was BOSS'n around he, managed to pull the tape I put on the top of it.. I know this more than likely is just coincidence, and my vehicle will continue popping fuses. NOTHING is that e-z.... or is it?? The wire is some kind of aftermarket wire the previous owner ran... let's hope..
 
Dsmkauai:
Yes, I deleted the wire. Didn't take it for a cruise yet (just got up a few hours ago), because if it did let me sit again, better for it to be in the daytime, rather than nighttime..
 
Okay, I thought that _mebbe_ the hot 12volt lead in the engine bay was it. Nope, drove it for about 10miles, then 2 hours later 3 miles... shut it off, went inside to get something to eat, came back out, fired right up... went to pull out.. NOTHING.... it shut down again. So, I put a working 30amp fusible link back in, got in the car, and when I turned the key on, the dash was populated with the normal lights, but they were dim. I tried turning it over, and the IGN fusible link that I just put in blew.

Ive driven the car for 3000+miles and never had any problems. The all we did was install a TPS, and this IGN fusible link started blowing.. Ive searched high and low. I've removed the 20asmp sunroof relay fuse, nope. Saw SOMEWHERE, there was someone randomly popping IGN fusible links, and here he had a relay or sensor messing things up. And!!, the same wire in his car, I have (of course), and mine had a 3 or 4 prong connector hooked up, and one of the prongs was rotted away.. I will look through my history and post the link..
 
RESOLVED:
Here, the 12+ battery cable going to the starter, came a little loose, and was arcing against the starter... Re-Routed all of the battery cables, (inspecting every inch), and came into my solution.... New 4gauge wire from the starter, to the junction block.. been solid ever since. Thank You to anyone attempting to help me out.. :)
 
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