95 TSI Talon Almost lives! Advice please!

[WhiteThunder]

Ok guys I just need a little more help to get the eclipse running. So just a run down of what’s going on. The car is not starting! Car cranks over and sounds like it's about to start and keeps repeating that over and over. Things I have done so far. Put ISO heat in the tank because the gas was a little old, Checked the fuel and I have fuel pressure in the fuel rail but am not smelling gas in the spark plugs? Im running a 1g cas for those who don’t know. I swapped the pins on the ECU for the injectors and left the "potentiometer" wired in the ECU, Re wired the CAS plugs for the harness since the previous owner had it wired wrong. Unless he used a different method? . Also I tried re adjusting the 1g cas so I just unplugged the battery and when I took it off the dowel pins where matched up but reverse 180*. So I lined them up and put it back on and tightened everything up? not sure if there is a fuse or something i need to pull when I’m doing this? Car didn’t start after that. Could it be the 1g CAS not telling the computer to fire in sequence? Any help would be gladly appreciated!!! One last note! my clutch goes straight to the floor when I barely push it in??? I don’t think that’s normal unless my car has to start before fluid can get the master cylinder? I have had too many long restless nights

 

[TAL0NTSi]

Have you checked to see if you're getting spark?

 

[DSMGary]

Have you checked to see if you're getting spark?

Exactly what he said ^^^

When my ECU stopped working, i lost all spark.

 

[WhiteThunder]

I know the spark plugs and wires should be good. I think so but I will check on my lunch if I have time and get back to you guys to make sure. How do you recommend would be the easiest way to check?

 

[TAL0NTSi]

It is possible that your plugs and wires are good. You also have the CAS and your coilpacks to worry about as well. So when checking for spark, usually it's best to have a person helping you out. However if your by yourself, pull out one of your plugs and leave it plugged into the plug wire and set it on the valve cover. Go into the car and try to crank it. You should see the plug arc onto the valve cover. I was able to do this myself by setting the plug on the valve cover in a spot where i could see it by looking through the gap under my hood through my winshield. Hope that makes sense.

 

[WhiteThunder]

I did not see any spark. does it matter what spark plug or does it have to be the #1 from the coil pack?

 

[TAL0NTSi]

I did all four of mine seperately in no specific order. Next thing you might wanna check is your coil packs. Is this a six bolt swap? Or did you just swap the CAS?

 

[crimson89]

try a different CAS.

 

[WhiteThunder]

7 bolt, just swapped the cas because it was already set up that way but was set up wrong. I have the original 2g crank sensor im just missing the 2g cam sensor. Am im better off just buying that and wire it back to stock?

 

[TAL0NTSi]

I think that might be a good option. Either that or you could test the CAS that you have now.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/358896-how-test-cas.html (3rd post)

 

[WhiteThunder]

Am i testing the CAS or the plug on the harness? because it says to disconnect the cas plug but then wouldnt the CAS have no power when testing? Just double checking i dont have internet at home so I have to remember all this and work on it when i get home .

 

[TAL0NTSi]

Here, I think this method might be more helpful.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/271979-cas-testing.html

This is the process we used to check my buddy's 1g CAS

 

[19Eclipse90]

The CAS must be plugged in to the harness and the key in the "ON" position for testing; here's a couple other links you might find useful: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/electrical-tech/394020-how-test-1g-cas.html#post152483382 and http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/238267-cas-diagnosing-steps.html#post50470620.

I jammed paperclips into the backside of the harness connector to obtain the readings I was after. If you choose to do that, make certain the paperclips do not touch each other.

Another 2G sensor would only benefit you if it matched your ECU -- i.e. a 95-96 cam sensor with a 95-96 ECU or a 97-99 cam sensor with a 97-99 ECU. A 97-99 sensor reads similar to a 1G sensor. It's signal must be inverted to use with a 95-96 ECU as well. Depending on the head you have, it may not be easy to make the 95-96 sensor fit and work.

 

[WhiteThunder]

Thanks guys! I'll troubleshoot when I get home. I'll post up back up in about an hour or so after I check it out.

 

[TAL0NTSi]

Awesome dude, good luck! I know how frustrating it can be to be that close to get it running. You'll get it though.

 

[WhiteThunder]

Yes especially if you are walking to work because its your daily driver! but WTH DSM for life

no spark across the board. The CAS didn't fire the injectors either with the key turned. I have 2 tools to test electricity but I dont know if they are the right ones to be using they look the same OHM, Dwell, DCvolts, TACH X10 is what i have on my meter

im getting 4.9v on the green wire/white strip and 0 volts on the other three wires on the CAS connector

ok so when i took off the CAS to re wire it, it was hooked up to a random blue/white stripe wire that idk where it was coming from but when I test the wire im getting 5 volts im wondering if maybe its one i need to use. its pin 55 on the ECU

ok so actually there was two sorry. its actually pin 89( crank position sensor) and I hooked up the read wire to a 12v so now i have 5v 5v 12v.

ok guys the ground was off! so i re wired it and bam!!! car started and started like crap! shaking everywhere, what do you guys think i need to check next

 

[TAL0NTSi]

Check your spark plug firing order. I believe it's 4-1-2-3 or 3-4-2-1 since you did that CAS swap

 

[WhiteThunder]

I have 4 3 2 1 at the head and I swapped them accordingly at the coil like the doc states. I also tried swapping the 4 pins on the ECU back to the way they where but it still started the same.

 

[dnhieu]

check to see if the cam angle sensor is 180 out!

 

[19Eclipse90]

You are getting good advice here.

For the firing order: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/393864-95-firing-order.html#post152481374. I'm not sure how (if at all) this is affected when you keep the 2G crank sensor. The coils for cylinder 1 and 4 will fire at the same time (so the wires must go to the same coil pack); the same for cylinder 2 and 3.

Again for the CAS, see the notch in the "spinner" and the notch on the body -- those must match up when installing the unit with the rest of the engine at TDC: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/electrical-tech/394020-how-test-1g-cas.html#post152483382

All else fails, you can start pulling plug wires off while its running to check for any change in performance so as to localize the issue.

 

[WhiteThunder]

I have taken it out 5 time and aligned it with the divits. When I took it off for the first time it was 180* out. Wouldnt hurt to just try and flip it around the other way would it? just in case

 

[19Eclipse90]

It won't hurt anything; I wouldn't expect it to help either.

 

[WhiteThunder]

Ok well ill play with it some more and swap the plugs around and swap the ECU injector pins around. Im just wondering how it ran for him if he didnt have the pins swapped like the document says and the plug wires where not swapped around either when I got it.

 

[TAL0NTSi]

Hmm..I'm thinking you should try what 19Eclipse90 said, and just start pulling plug wires to see if it runs any differently. When my firing order was wrong my car ran absolutely terrible. I would definitely try switching those wires around

 

[WhiteThunder]

yea it doesnt even run wont maintain idle for more than 10 seconds. Ill see what I can accomplish on my lunch and get back to you guys but tommorow is my day off soo I'll have way more time to tinker with stuff

swapped the spark plugs around still the same thing. It sounds like something is maybe knocking, lifter? Doesnt sound good but Sounds like it can be tuned out because it rotates freely with no noise when the car is off. I tried griving it some gas and it will stay on if you gas it but doesnt get any better. Smells like weird gas after too, it stinks.

check engine came on for a bit while trying to hold it at idle. I dont have an OBD2 reader . I have the tools for a compression test but im pretty sure thats not the issue.