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95 TSI Talon Almost lives! Advice please!

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WhiteThunder

10+ Year Contributor
45
0
Sep 4, 2010
Pendleton, Oregon
Ok guys I just need a little more help to get the eclipse running. So just a run down of what’s going on. The car is not starting! Car cranks over and sounds like it's about to start and keeps repeating that over and over. Things I have done so far. Put ISO heat in the tank because the gas was a little old, Checked the fuel and I have fuel pressure in the fuel rail but am not smelling gas in the spark plugs? Im running a 1g cas for those who don’t know. I swapped the pins on the ECU for the injectors and left the "potentiometer" wired in the ECU, Re wired the CAS plugs for the harness since the previous owner had it wired wrong. Unless he used a different method? :confused:. Also I tried re adjusting the 1g cas so I just unplugged the battery and when I took it off the dowel pins where matched up but reverse 180*. So I lined them up and put it back on and tightened everything up? not sure if there is a fuse or something i need to pull when I’m doing this? Car didn’t start after that.:hmm: Could it be the 1g CAS not telling the computer to fire in sequence? Any help would be gladly appreciated!!! One last note! my clutch goes straight to the floor when I barely push it in??? I don’t think that’s normal unless my car has to start before fluid can get the master cylinder?:banghead: I have had too many long restless nights
 
I haven't given up on you, Brandon. Just trying to piece the information together. Are you absolutely sure you have a '95 ECU? You can search around on here or reference this other site to figure it out: Eclipse Talon Laser Galant 3000GT Stealth ECU ID Reference.

I would check the compression just to knock out the possibility that the engine is running poorly because of a zero compression cylinder. Also, you said you switched the plugs around but never that you pulled a plug wire while the engine was running. Do this for each cylinder separately and observe the behavior of the engine: if performance decreases, that suggests the cylinder is combusting properly; if it doesn't decrease, that suggests that spark, fuel, or the timing of the two isn't correct.

You never mentioned if you tried adjusting the CAS or not. Base timing on a 2G isn't normally adjustable; with the 1G CAS it is. Check this out for that: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/312350-how-set-base-timing-without-using-lower-timing-cover.html. Look here for the correct connector to ground the timing: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/337818-where-ground-timing-95-a.html.

If you get through all that without any weird results, fill us in with exactly how the car is currently set up: what wires are where on the ECU, what is the spark plug firing order, is the CAS 180 degrees out or not, any other observations you might have that can help us help you.
 
95 ECU(MD312464), bottom end is a 99 I think, head is 95? Anyways I swapped the firing order on the ECU back to how it came "untouched" and the car now idled but bad. Seems to be every time I set the car to TDC not matter which way the CAS is set 180* or not is runs the same. Im trying to wire the 2 stock sensors up but there is no volts coming from the crank sensor wires im getting like .08 .07 .12 instead of 5 12 0 . let me upload some pics of the mess so it makes sense

not letting me do the picture thing and its hard to tell what wire is what. let me make a video and post a link. Just a run around of the car.

I was able to swap the ECU back to the stock sensors and the car starts but misfires in one maybe 2 cyclinders. So both set of sensors work, something else is causing my engine to misfire. picking up new NGK sparks today and Ill update after that. Will the potentiometer run and either set of sensors?

Will the potentiometer run on either set of sensors? ***
 
hmm I did play with the 1g timing a bit but didnt get rid of the misfire. Car sounds the same with either 1g cas or 2g crank and cam sensors. Could This car have some kind of adaptor harness and maybe I need to reverse the firing order of the fuel injectors?

ok so just disconnect it im assuming
 
I was able to swap the ECU back to the stock sensors and the car starts but misfires in one maybe 2 cyclinders. So both set of sensors work, something else is causing my engine to misfire.

sound like you have the spark pulg firing order wrong. If your useing 4-1-2-3 then you shoud use 3-4-2-1.
 
Right it was just weird because the 1g cas ran better when the wire where matching and the car idled. When I swapped them the car would just run choppy and die. So im wondering if some how he has them swapped around somewhere? Would it matter if the bottom block/sensor is a 99?

I have it 4-1-2-3 right now because im using the stock 2g sensors.

so its possible he ran the 1g cas with out changing the firing order around?
 
All 2G turbo cars use the same crank sensor. I seem to remember somewhere reading that it is possible to switch the firing order a different way, but with as many times as you've switched the plug wires, it would have been covered one way or another.

Which cylinder(s) are misfiring?
 
yea I've been switching plugs around so much I forgot to tuck the #1 wire back and it got spliced in half by the cam gear while I was testing, so I had to get new wires LOL. As far as which cylinders miss firing how can I tell besides looking at the pc? It sounds like #2 & maybe #3 but cant say for sure. One thing I did notice when I pulled the plugs, every spark still smelled like gas and had a bit of residue except for the one on #2. Will be trying new sparks today and taking out the potentiometer and wire pin 85 back in(orange).

I'll get those pics to you later tonight

So Nappa gave me the NGK BPR6EKN and they have the dual tip. I asked the guy how I was supposed to gap them and he said there wasnt any special tool that it comes pre gapped. Yea pre gapped to .32 wich does me no good. should I just return them or is there a way I can gap it with the regular coin gapper? .28...
 
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I would use the 1g cas and put a set of ngk bpr7es there like 1.75 per spark plug. Using the 1g cas is going to change ## firing order if your still running the 2g coilpack.
 
already used both sensors. Im just using the stock ones for now so its easier to troubleshoot. Guess I have to take these back and wait for a new order :/
 
Hey guys bad news. 150 across the board except #2 I'm getting 0 preassure. What could that mean? This block has to be good

same cylinder that blew on the old block. Could I have a valve stuck open or bent?
 
Yea it's the valves im guessing since that's the same cylinder that threw the connecting rod in the old block and Im sure it bent the valves. Would any machine shop be able to replace my valves? or should I try replacing them myself?
 
Just to update the real resolution of the problem in case anyone else has a similar issue. The head having to bent valves was not the actuall issue with the car. After replacing the head we found out it was still having issues. Basically the ecu had rust spots and needed to be clean up with some acetone. All better now!
 
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