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'95 TSi AWD AUTO street build?

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Showtime

Probationary Member
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Nov 9, 2013
Holton, Kansas
Just bought a '95 Tsi, new to the 4g63t scene but i liked the thought of it, body is decent paint is faded has some tsw ricer wheels on it, basically im wanting something that'll run quick on a decent budget, but none the less, a budget. was going to do HKS 272's, car has Thermal R&D catback on it.

Questions:
what to do with a stock auto trans, leaving it auto, that will be good launch wise, build boost, hold up to decent power, not sure, can you do stalls like on old hotrods? i am a newbie, so forgive me. had a 240sx with a 2 step device and line lock, would a trans brake be feasable?
I might add. i liked the auto to stay in boost, just trying to figure out how to launch it, in boost. i wanna be able to make this ugly turd handle about anything on the street.

best turbo for stock internals with cams, valves, i dont care about a little lag, but nothing over 1000,

will axles and things like that hold up?

best injectors for the$$$

any other things i may need to think of? thanks guys, just wanting to get into the 4g63 scene but not sure where to start. info or links to others posts that you may be familiar with would work great!!!
 
Im going auto very soon. From my research the best bet for a street/strip car, primarily street, would be a restalled converter from IPT.
Brake boosting. Grab a vacuum pump, put it in line between the brake booster and IM with a check valve on the IM side. Toggled with a switch, this will allow you to hold the line with less force on the pedal and build boost.
Since youre talking stock internals you are limited in power options. I would suggest a JB black as they are only 800 bucks right now and will bolt right up. Possibly, with the right setup, able to pump out 65lbs/min of air. Thats a lot of power, more than your internals will hold.

Good injectors? Lots of em. Fic, PTE, ID just to name a few. Gas or e85? If e85 then i hate to say it but just spend the big money upfront and get FIC 2150s. All you'll ever need.

I am going with a full IPT rebuild, restalled converter, forcedfour shift box on my setup. Keeping the TCU though so i can switch between stock and full line pressure shifts.

Axles? I think you're ok with whatever power you will be making. Driveshaft should be fine too.

There is a subforum just for autos right here: Automatic Tranny - DSM Forums

Sift through some threads, get some info on IPTs site. That'll help. It helped me so far
 
hey thanks boost, read on that forced4 box! definitely going to get that! yes, i want to stay with a bolt right up turbo, where do i find that black at? i am running 91-93, no e85 around here....rewstalled to what? just curious as far as numbers go...

alot of people say just go a big 16g, but i want something bigger for the future when i redo internals. whats the power numbers and rpm ranges on that jb black?

also, aftermarket BOV? best/best sounding, love em loud.
see a lot of people talking about internal or externally wastegated turbo's? advantages? also have a greddy frontmount and piping found for $400 used, decent buy? easy to install? came right off a 95 gst
 
Forced performance is selling journal bearing Blacks for 799 right now. Extra 150 for internal gate.
The external gate will help keep boost under control better. Which might be necessary for your setup and that particular turbo. Like i said, i believe that is the biggest dsm flanged FP turbo out there at the moment so it, in theory with the right engine, valvetrain, exhaust, mani(s), should be able to make around 600hp. Maybe more. But you're running pump gas so dont expect that without water/meth injection.

I agree, skip the 16g. I know they are all around great performers but for the price of the Black, idk, your money but i would go with a big bolt on so you have enough turbo later on down the road.
ASince you cant get e85, 1200cc injectors or thereabouts will be fine to carry you down the upgrade path.

BOV? I have only owned on: Greddy type rs i think? Maybe a type s. Came witht he car, does what its supposed to and sounds nice. Im happy.

You and me both are going to be learning about FMICs on autos LOL. Ive heard the upper pipe has to be modified to work with autos cause of the clearance issue. The AT is larger and hits the pipe. So some welding will be in order. With your particular fmic? IDK, maybe its a fit. You will just have to see. Im running a PR kit and i believe i have to mod the uicp to work. It will be awhile til i have the swap completed/engine rebuilt for me though so i wouldnt be the one to accurately answer that question.


Edit: Black is "rated" to 68lbs/min. Thats upwards of 600whp on a good setup automatic. Maybe a bit more. Its just alot, leave it at that
http://store.forcedperformance.net/...uct_Code=NTDSMFPBLACK&Category_Code=DSM-Turbo
 
I would go 20g until you build the internals then just go holset
the black is good but i couldn't imagine using one without a built motor

and that turbo doesn't "bolt right up" on a 2g, you'd definitely want a front mount intercooler and upgrade the entire intake and exhaust at the very least and to be fed from the oil filter housing, lets not trick him into buying a black for 800 then 3-5 grand later he can have it working properly
 
I would go 20g until you build the internals then just go holset
the black is good but i couldn't imagine using one without a built motor

and that turbo doesn't "bolt right up" on a 2g, you'd definitely want a front mount intercooler and upgrade the entire intake and exhaust at the very least and to be fed from the oil filter housing, lets not trick him into buying a black for 800 then 3-5 grand later he can have it working properly

Ok then which 20g? And that is same flange? It'd bolt up? I was thinking about going with a T3 flange and like a hx40? With a fmic. Then like 730-1000 injectors, a 255 wahlbro, a set of 272 cams, arp headstuds, then find a good manifold(intake and exhaust)a good intake setup and that forced4 box. Opinions?
 
I would go 20g until you build the internals then just go holset
the black is good but i couldn't imagine using one without a built motor

and that turbo doesn't "bolt right up" on a 2g, you'd definitely want a front mount intercooler and upgrade the entire intake and exhaust at the very least and to be fed from the oil filter housing, lets not trick him into buying a black for 800 then 3-5 grand later he can have it working properly

Yes, good idea. Upgrade to a dsm flanged turbo then upgrade to a bigger dsm turbo later. Great idea.

Tell me, i havent owned a fp turbo, why is it NOT a bolt on turbo? Is it not flanged for a dsm mani?? That is indeed the definition, as we know it, of a "bolt-on". The flange is the same and it sits the o2 housing in the same position as stock.
I cant disagree with the 20g but im of the mindset, measure twice cut once. Just buy the turbo you want later, now. Run it at 10psi externally gated if you have to. Sure its more lag but the payoff is now you didnt waste 400 bucks on a used 20g only to replace it after you build your internals/head. Its a matter of spool time.

Ok then which 20g? And that is same flange? It'd bolt up? I was thinking about going with a T3 flange and like a hx40? With a fmic. Then like 730-1000 injectors, a 255 wahlbro, a set of 272 cams, arp headstuds, then find a good manifold(intake and exhaust)a good intake setup and that forced4 box. Opinions?

If you can come straight out and go t3 i see no reason not to. FMIC is top priority as well as exhaust along with all the other mandatory stuff. Going to t3 puts you in the seat to grab a whole nother level of turbos when youre ready. This process is more expensive but with a budget PR mani, knock wg, rebuilt holset its not too expensive. You need to figure out what you're ultimate goals are iwth the car and build accordingly. T3 is certainly the ideal setup for you IMO, I though you were still considering the bolt on type.
which btw, you can still do with a holset. You just have to use a 55ar BEP hotside. Thats the only option for bolt on holsets. Just decide what you want and the max HP you want to eventually make then there are a million paths to get there. Good luck with your choice.:thumb::thumb:
 
Right now I'm wanting mid-high 500's on pump 91-93, once I do build internals and head I'd like to see 850...I'm going with a hx40, so do I get a BEP hot side now? Which means use my cast mani or a aftermarket mani, or should I just get a t3 mani? If so best bang for the buck?

Basically I'm not wanting a track slut, but rather an old ugly tsi that walks on all the arrogant lsx or corvette guys in my area from a street dig, or highway roll. A little lag doesn't scare me just aslong as it's followed by a freight train of a pull thru high rpms. Right now my plan is to just do turbo and what ever intake and exhaust needs done. A fmic, good BOV. Good external wastegate. Injectors and a fuel pump. Arp headstuds Then forced4 shift box and a damn good tune. Once I get money after that, then I'm going to do 272 cams. Retune. The. Next winter build the bottom end. And either buy a newer hx40 or maybe get a hx52. Basically just want something that eats everything from a dig on street and walks people on a roll. Idc about track times. But it will be a "daily" I have a 4wd 4 cyl ranger I drive also. So not a everyday driven car but definitely will drive it back and forth to work and stuff. Not just a weekend cruise night car.
 
There is nothing wrong with automatics especially for the track.
Yes you can launch just like the old hot rods and not have to worry about traction so much. There is a lot of new technology for the automatics that make them very competitive.

Drive train on these cars are very strong, granted they have limits but you will be in good shape for a while on your stock to mild build.
 
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