95 n/t with turbo, no start

[rattdadde]

ok guys i know i need to update my profile but i was hoping to do that all after i got the car running, but here goes
95 eclipse, 420a,
evo 3 turbo,
ported head
walboro pump
deleted factory feul reg
aeromotive feul reg.
factory injectors, but also have evo and bluetops wit resistor if needed
egr blockoff,
i think thats it ...

but my prob is it wil lcrank but wont catch. i drained old gas and put new gas in, and luckily i drive another 95 so i got parts to swap out and test, so far ive swapped and not gotten a chage with the, usual culprits, getting fuel(45 psi pressure) getting spark, swapped crank sensor, cam sensor, even map sensor and computer and ignition button..nothing changed. im not getting tha warning lights thogh when the key is in tha on position, would that mean the computers not connecting wit something the right way? im leaning more twards the main harness being a prob like a bad ground or something, anyone else have a idea?

 

[brassc2007]

check your wiring the warning lights should come on but if you are getting spark then you are getting signal from the ecu i would double check the compression on the cylinder, spark and fuel cause you stated you have spark and fuel if so it would start unless the compression is to low or your timing is off. And just a question but do you have a missing link so the ecu is not reading the boost? And if your vss sensor (vehicle speed sensor) is out it wont start.

 

[rattdadde]

well my compression is low , its between 120-125. i dont have the missing link but i didnt think id need it wit the intercooler disconnected from the throttlebody. how woudl the speed sensor keep it from starting?

 

[rattdadde]

oh and im not getting those warning lights, i think i should try figuring that out first dont u think?

 

[brassc2007]

if the speed sensor is not working it will prevent it from starting its a stupid safety thing or something but your compression should start it its not great but its not terrible but like i said before i would make sure you have spark on all 4 plugs, how did you test for spark and how did you test the fuel?

 

[brassc2007]

have you disconnected anything lately

 

[rattdadde]

this car hasnt ran in like 10 years id say, i had to replace everything basically but it was a free car so i took it and decided to try my hand at a turbo.. i built my red 95 that im driving that was in a similar state and it runs great. i just cant figure this prob out.umm well i tool the plug out and grounded it and watced tha spark, i only done it for the #1 but assumed the others worked ### used a voltmeter and checked the resistance on all poles of coil and it was within specs in chilton manuel. and im assumeing the fuel injectors are workin ### i forgot to connect he coil there one time and all my plugs got fuel fouled out and i had to replace them . I swear thoguh it like it will chug a lil like its getting ready to catch but it wont its horrible, gets my hopes u pso bad then ....nothing

 

[rattdadde]

how do i check the speed sensor?

 

[DSM-sagacious]

What type of ecu management are you using?

 

[rattdadde]

i was using the aeromotive fmu/reg. with evo injectors but i think i wired the resistor in wrong so just to make sure i got fuel i put stockers back in to see if that helped to no avail. aftre thinkin about it all night im bout sure its gotta have a gound wrong or broken wire somewhere. i mean after crankin and it tries to catch.... the computer takes over then right? well given that thought and that im getting NO warning lights...its gotta be tha harness either messed up or just not connected somewhere

 

[Locke]

I wasn't aware that Aeromotive made a FMU.

You'll need some form of fuel management befor eyou start boosting.

 

[tec_41]

I wasn't aware that Aeromotive made a FMU.

You'll need some form of fuel management befor eyou start boosting.

That's what the FMU is, and he's got it paired with a FPR. He's good to go. I'm sure he just meant Aeromotive FPR and some other FMU.

You don't need Missing Link btw on a 95, so don't worry about that.

 

[RoninEclipse2G]

I'd check the ECU again. If you don't get the normal CEL for the first few moments then it's not working.

 

[rattdadde]

yea i didnt think i needed tha missing link for tha 95, i tried to make sure i had everything b 4 i started
and well i yanked out tha harness today gonna remove the loom and check wiring and contacts. the ECU is good. put it in my red 95 and works fine. ill post my findings when im done

 

[tcavenger99]

bad wires something to try mine was shot . I had a similar problem yet i keep loosing spark . mine turned out to be valve cover leaked on knock sensor and shorted ground on crank sensor but thats a whole other story . here try this .
NO.: TSB-95-54-005

DATE: December, 1995

MODEL: 1995 Eclipse

SUBJECT:
A-32 CONNECTOR CORROSION

BACKGROUND INFORMATION

On some affected vehicles, corrosion at connector A-32 in the front end harness could cause driveability or electrical problems. Possible symptoms are no start, hard start, engine stalling, CHECK ENGINE light comes on, and/or A/C condenser fan inoperative. These conditions can be corrected by eliminating connector A-32 and splicing the harness as described in this bulletin.

VEHICLES AFFECTED

1995 Eclipse non-turbocharged models produced before 5/24/95.

PROCEDURE

1. Record the pre-set radio stations and radio code if applicable. Then disconnect the battery.

2. Raise the vehicle.

3. Remove the left front wheel and wheel well splash-shield.

a. On automatic transmission models, remove the left side engine room cover (transmission splash shield).









4. Connector A-32 is mounted against the lower left frame rail. Inspect connector A-32 for corrosion. Disconnect the connector and check the pin contacts.

a. If corrosion is found in the connector, proceed with Step 5.

b. If no corrosion is found, go to Step 8.









5. Note the locations of the wire colors on each side of connector A-32. Then cut connector A-32 out of the harness. For ease of wire matching, cut and solder one wire color at a time. Discard the connector.

6. Strip approximately 8 mm of wire insulation and match the same colored wires. The eight wire colors in the harness are: black two red/black light green/black, dark green/black, two green/orange, and green/red.

7. Splice and solder the cut wires, using the following preferred method:








a. Insert the stripped ends of the wires into a split brass tube (solder splice) if available, and crimp the wire ends together, making a good mechanical joint.








b. Apply solder to the joint at the crimp mark, using only enough solder to achieve a good connection.

c. Apply 3M 6149 Electrical Moisture Sealant (or 3M AUTOTECH Moisture Resistant Wrap p/n 054007-03748 available in auto parts stores) around the solder joints. Proceed with Step 8.








8. Locate the two splice joints. You must remove some corrugated tubing and electrical tape from the harness in order to locate the splice joints.








9. Inspect for corrosion at the splice joints. If there is evidence of corrosion, remove the corroded portion. Proceed with Step 10, even if no corrosion is evident.

10. Solder both splice joint wires and apply 3M 6149 Electrical Moisture Sealant (or 3M AUTOTECH Moisture Resistant Wrap p/n 054007-03748 available in auto parts stores) around the solder joints.

11. Reinstall the splice joints inside the corrugated tubing. Wrap electrical tape around the tubing to prevent the wires from protruding.

12. Reinstall the left front wheel and wheel well splash shield.

a. On automatic transmission models, reinstall the left side engine room cover (transmission splash shield).


13. Reconnect the battery and reset the radio stations.


WARRANTY INFORMATION

Front End Harness Repair
Nature Code: 99D Cause Code: 990
Labor Operation Number: 54354200 Time Allowance: 1.0 hrs.

Warranty Coverage:
36 months/36,000 miles

Special Warranty Information:
A-32 connector and harness repair on an as-needed basis.

 

[rattdadde]

ok well imma get into tha harnes tomorrow, but as i was swapping out my column for my buddies since it was free and i couldnt remove the key from my old one. i noiticed some relays under the dash that i hadnt seen b 4 were missing. so i robbed them from his car also so ill let ya know for sure. im not sure what they are too but looks like wires from the colum so im hoping that was it

 

[Diamondrev]

forget the speed sensor thing. mine hasn't worked in a few months and my car runs fine.

 

[95 'clipse RS]

forget the speed sensor thing. mine hasn't worked in a few months and my car runs fine.

yeah i have had the speed sensor disconnected after a manual swap for awhile too. so disregard that VSS Sensor.

 

[rattdadde]

yea thats kinda what i was thinkin. when mine would come loose on my red eclipse it would just make the needle jump a lil. welp im walkin out tha door hopefully she will be fixed today wish me luck fellers

 

[rattdadde]

well ok, i double and triple checked tha harness. no luck, so im back to my first/worst thought. im guessing i got the timing off on the crank side a tooth or half a tooth. the cams are still where i positioned them so i guess they were right. i know these things are tempermental but dang a half a tooth will keep it from catching? i was hoping it would run like crap instead of not running at all if that were the case

 

[engineerthis87]

How did you check that your car was getting fuel? When i turbo'd my first 420 i had hooked up the fpr incorrectly and the car wasnt getting the right amount of fuel to fire, as soon as i fixed that.. the car fired right away.

 

[rattdadde]

hmmm well, i just assumed it was getting feul into the cylinders after i changed the first set of plugs ### i forgot to plug in the coil and all plugs smelled like straight gas and had t obe replaced so i assumed that was a dumb but decent way to see if the cylinders were getting fuel. i had that prob wit my reg also the first time i hooked it up. finally figured it out after alot of thinkin and alot of wasted gas
could it be that my injectors are too small? they are the factory ones. i have the bigger evo and a set of bluetops i can use wit a resistor but i figured it would be one less thing to worry about if i got it running wit factory injectors first b 4 i worried bout the tuning, ya know?

 

[rstare]

A few things...
If this car hasn't run in a long time, I would recommend trying to start it without any modifications. Meaning put the stock injectors (they're not too small out of boost, and even at 8psi) and stock fpr in.
You have an Aeromotive AFPR? What's your fuel pressure?
Even though it wouldn't effect the startup, unless hooked up incorrectly, what FMU are you using?
It's debatable whether your car would start being off a tooth. Mine did, but some others didn't. Check your timing and make sure it's right on.
Oh, and don't just take off an intercooler pipe so you won't boost... Unless you want to kill your turbo, that is.

Edit: By the way, 120psi on a compression test is bad...

 

[rattdadde]

yea i know tha compression is bad, and im running 45 psi now at the fpr, i tried it lower and higher even have the factory injectors in now wit no change. the timing is most likely my issue im guessing. i was just really hoping to try everything else so i didnt have to fool wit the timing again . but i guess thats my job for this weekend, uggghhhh....

 

[95 'clipse RS]

im just hoping that you don't have bent valves from the timing being off. im not sure if you had low compression before this problem but that could be a sign. the pistons could have nicked it just enough to make them not seat, but when i bent valves i went all out and had 0 across the board which is the usual case. quick trick to tell if its just the piston rings is pour a few drops of oil down in the cylinders through the spark plug hole and re-test the compression, if it raises its the rings, if it doesn't its valves.

it would take a pretty decent leak to do that though, in my eclipse now i have a bad HG, and it has a pretty bad leak from cyl. 3-4 that i found from a leakdown test, and i still get 190 compression on 3 and 4. since you have fuel and spark, i would tend to point the finger at timing. mechanical and ignition timing. the car should still fire with 120psi of compression.

just my .02