The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

95 GSX clutch won't engage drivetrain

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mic

Probationary Member
11
0
Apr 27, 2010
Dilliner, Pennsylvania
Scoured every forum out there for this problem, and couldn't find anyone else who had this problem with a brand new clutch.
Rebuilding a 95 GSX 420a with my son. Very nearly ready to put the car on the road after rebuilding engine, and replacing almost everything except the body. (well, most of the body anyway.)
The stock modular clutch will not release. (disengage?) That is with the car in gear and my foot off the clutch pedal, the car will not stall or try to move.
Obvioulsly, the clutch is not making contact with the pressure plate.
Since it is the modular version, there is no way to botch the installation, and if there was a hydraulic problem, I would have the opposite problem in that the car would stay in gear. (or grind like hell when trying to shift.)
Other than the new clutch being defective, what else could this be? I really hate to pull the motor AGAIN. :notgood:(long story about a botched oil pump install by the engine builder.), although I am pretty sure that I can pull the engine blindfolded in about 2 hours.:hellyeah:
Could there be some kind of debris stuck between the clutch and pressure plate? Anyone out there have problems with aftermarket modular clutches?
 
Installed a new master cyclinder.
The pedal stroke seems damn near perfect.
I'll play with it (pedal adjustement rod from master) and see what happens.
I also thought abot backing off the slave cylinder mounting bolts to see if the clutch starts to "grab", with the thought being that the slave is sticking and keeping the clutch from engaging.
Just want to make sure that I rule out all prossible problems before dropping the tranny. (again.):banghead:
Thanks for the reply and link.
 
Has to be a GS. (420a 2.0 liter, non-turbo.)
I'm pretty sure that the title paperwork has it listed as a GSX. (Which probably means that I'm getting hit harder on my insurance!!)
No way that the Mits engine was swapped for the 420a, as they mount 180 degrees apart.
I'll double check tonight, (after I mess with the clutch adjustment.)
Thanks for ask'in, or I never would have thought to look into this.
 
adjusted clutch master cylinder rod full range, no effect.
(Other than not being able to push in the slave cylinder with my thumb.) Adjusted it per the video and left it at that.
My next step is going to be;
1. Make sure one of the drive axles isn't hanging out of the tranny.:ohdamn:
2. Remove the slave cyclinder and see if the clutch engages. (should be fully engaged and unable to shift car into gear.)

If both of these actions still don't solve the problem, then I have to pull the phuk'en tranny and find out wtf is wrong with the new clutch and throw out bearing:mad:

Also shreded the main serpentine belt the other day on the new aluminum underdrive pulley. I suspect the mechanic didn't heat it up to install it, so it's probably misaligned and ruined.:banghead:

I'm starting to have ill feelings toward this car.
 
You dont by chance still have the car on jackstands do you??! :ohdamn:

God, I wish.

Anyway, here is what I did tonight.
Set the park brake, started car and put in first gear.
Car continued to idle as though in neutral.

Had the clutch fork boot pulled open and could plainly see the clutch housing rotating, so it appaers that the clutch is indeed engaged.

Double cheked the shift cables to make sure they were hooked up correctly and the x-mission wasn't sitting there in neutral. Looks correct in that the shift lever and select lever move the gearshift the correct way when you move them by hand on the top of the tranny.

The slave cylinder can be pushed in with my thumb, so hat appears to be adjusted properly.

So, I'm going to take out max insurance on it and push it into the river:thumb:
 
Can you rake it through the gears idling with the clutch out? Really sounds like an axle isn't popped in place. Since you said you could see the clutch disk spinning through the fork boot the would mean its trans related, and I assume it was a good trans to begin with before the rebuild... Has the flywheel been turned?

Here you go, pop it on some jack stands. Leave the car in neutral and spin the wheel on one side, the opposite side should spin in the opposite direction. If it does, tranny. If it doesn't check your axles.
 
Sounds like the exact problem i had. I have a 96 TSIAWD and i had a fully built trans and a brand new clutch but long story short it got stuck it first gear and the clutch wouldnt disengage. the shifter went blank and it was like there was no play in the gear box. first thought "trans". OUCH!. under further examination with a mircoscopic camera there was a STANDARD head of a bolt stuck inbetween my pressure plate and flywheel not letting it disengage. so after hours of wrenching to remove the bolt car shifts fine. dont ask me where the standard bolt came from in the metric car !?
 
Fixed. Wanted to post results for others that may have this problem.
Got the front wheels back off the ground to perform the following;
1. Bled the clutch. (By bleeding I mean open the bleeder and let it run while adding to the reservoir.)
2. Took off the front wheels, took off the axle nuts and beat the hell out of the axle shafts with a dead blow hammer. (and a ball peen using a block of wood to keep from damaging the threads.)

Put it all back together and it worked fine.:D

Now, it's body work time!:thumb:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top