95 GST motor problem and questions

[darkmajesty06]

Alright,

I just bought this 95 gst past night and i have no idea on motor upgrades other than a fmic kit.. It has god aweful body kit, wheels, horrible paint but the motor ran real solid till today.

So here is a pic of my motor, could you please point out any aftermarket items or anything that looks fishy?

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What is that big chrome thing attached to the turbo?

In thid video, could you tell me if its regular lifter noise or if i may need to rebuild the head?
http://static.photobucket.com/playe...albums/g476/darkmajesty06/20130309_171430.mp4


I had a oil change and have shell high mileage 5-30 put on.. Was this a solid choice?

My bov has the threads stipped where it says hard soft.. Can i just use sealer on it or do i need to purchase a new bov?

Thete is a whine(ever stood by a power transformer and heard that buzz it makes?) above 2590-3000.. Its coming from outside and driver side. It stops below said rpm and always make sounds around and above said rpm.. Any known issue on this whistle/low pitch sound or do i need a real diagnostic on it?

I dont hit boost until around 4 grand.. Is this normal?

What octane should i use in the car?

Isnt the bov suppost to release excess pressure whenever in boost? Mine wont make the whise until around 5k. As stated before, i cant adjust it because the thread is stripped on the adjusting hole.

 

[VtecvrsTurbo]

It looks like the valve cover has a crack and was fixed with sealant. The turbo is aftermarket and has a external wastegate (Chrome thing). The BOV must be adjusted so yes I'd get a new one. With larger turbos, boost builds at higher RPMS. You have a lot of reading to catch up on. Looks like a 6-bolt swap, or just the intake manifold. I'd run 91 octane to be safe. It has a GM MAF so it must have a translator or DSMlink, etc.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

1 : That sounds like typical lifter noise. You can never be sure, however, until you do a proper leakdown test and a Compression test wouldn't hurt either - just to ensure the condition of the valves.

2 : The idle is terrible. Sounds like the ISC doesn't know what's going on. $100 says the TPS is adjusted improperly. Hell, $100 says the entire throttle body is adjusted improperly.

3 : "Upgrades"
A - MAFT (This allows you to vent to atmosphere properly and also 'tune' to some degree)
B - Can't identify the exhaust manifold right off hand, but certainly aftermarket
C - Looks like a Tial External Wastegate is sitting there beside your power steering pump.
D - Blingin' Oil Cap
E - 'Custom' cracked valve cover
F - Bad wiring
G - Looks like mounts for a strut tower bar
H - Knockoff Greddy Blow off valve
I - Solid Intake Pipe
J - Can't see the turbo, but by the flange of the exhaust manifold, certainly not stock.
K - Certainly looks 6-Bolt...ish.

4 : The turbo seems larger - but depending on what it is, exactly, we can't make a good comment on it's power range or when it should start producing boost. Take some pictures of it.

5 : The 'whine' on the driver side could be several things.. all from a bad accessory belt, to a pulley rubbing on the shroud, and finally to a failing timing belt tensioner or a harmonic dampener failing.

6 : Always use premium to avoid needless knock. 91+. Just like it says on your gauge cluster " Premium Only"

 

[CrackedDSM]

The turbo is laggy because that's a T3 flanged turbo. Can't see the compressor cover to identify it, but the inlet looks 4" big at least. The brand manifold is megan racing/ebay crap, so it's not only cracked but none of the flanges are flat and level unless the previous owner had them machined flat(doubt it because of the body kit and other "mods"). The BOV is a knockoff as well, and I'd bet $5 that the wastegate is a knock-off too. I'd go out on a limb and say the previous owner put on an ebay "turbo upgrade kit" that came with a turbo, FMIC, manifold, etc. Everything in that engine bay screams eBay. I doubt if it has anything other than the MAF-T at this point. Stop driving it immediately and scan over everything. Pull the ECU see if it is an EPROM and if it's been socketed/chipped or has ECMLink, do you have a wideband? Is there an SAFC in the interior?


I wouldn't doubt if the previous owner is running a shit ton of boost on stock injectors as well as it being untuned. Best to stop driving it to not risk engine damage.

 

[VtecvrsTurbo]

Not trying to sound mean, but why did you purchase something you have no idea about? I would have at least tried to educate myself some before buying it. . .

But hey, thats why we are all here right?

How much did you pay?

 

[CrackedDSM]

I've also got to say, is that a 90 CAS or is it 180* out? I'm hoping it's a 90 model...

 

[GSTurbo1]

Oh jeeezzzzzz.... ## getting deep quick! I'm going to have to think about a good reply.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

I've also got to say, is that a 90 CAS or is it 180* out? I'm hoping it's a 90 model...

Good catch - That doesn't look right.

Gotta love the Radiator mounts also.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

It can't help to have that tiny Septre intake pipe blocking off that huge turbo inlet. You should probably get a 4"-5" aluminum pipe for it that's all one piece, and get a K&N filter before you find shiny metal parts of your filter in the turbo.

Another thing is the way your wastegate and BOV are both teed into the manifold. You may get a better boost refrence if you hook the wastegate hose to the intercooler pipe somewhere.

I also see a coolant hose near the thermostat housing with no hose clamp.

Your battery hold down is more important than most people know.

The cover on the fusebox prevents corrosion.

Obviously the bad wiring and the cracked valve cover have already been mentioned, but the wire nut by the battery is one of my favorites.

Ps. That is a 90 style CAS, you can't put them on with the housing inverted, and no, Shell 5w30 was not a solid choice.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

It can't help to have that tiny Septre intake pipe blocking off that huge turbo inlet. You should probably get a 4"-5" aluminum pipe for it that's all one piece, and get a K&N filter before you find shiny metal parts of your filter in the turbo.

Another thing is the way your wastegate and BOV are both teed into the manifold. You may get a better boost refrence if you hook the wastegate hose to the intercooler pipe somewhere.

I also see a coolant hose near the thermostat housing with no hose clamp.

Your battery hold down is more important than most people know.

Ooh~ I see that. Looks like the feed for the Turbo.

This is like a new game of Where's Waldo.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Electrical tape on the Upper rad hose!

 

[darkmajesty06]

Well,

It seems i have quite a bit to do. I traded my 96 mustang gt for it. I had some aftermarket parts but it had unknown mileage amoung other problems. Im here to learn and will take what teasing is needed to get this car back to good shape. When i was a kid i owned a 1990 laser turbo but never modded it and eventually sold it. Thats what enticed me to trade for this car. Imterior could use some tlc as well as the body.. But overall im happy and in the end, thats what counts!

So ive determind i need a battery hold down, fuse cover, a first gen 4" or 5" cold air kit, locate and make the cas upright, i need to run my wastegate into the intercooler piping, need to check out my injectors and if they are stock, go much larger? Check my ecm for eprom or dsmlink, install a new valve cover and identify if my motor is indeed a 6 bolt.

Did i get it all? Thanks for all your help everyone. I saw a oppertunity to get a car i could make into my own and thats what i did!

 

[VtecvrsTurbo]

Good luck man! There's a TON of information on this site that you can educate yourself with.

 

[darkmajesty06]

Thats what i was going for vtec! I'm surprised i had some many.. not per say, rude comments, but more negative such as, I cant believe this this and this is done this way or that way.. but no positive input, such as, you have a 90s Cas installed and it appears to be inverted, but you can do this and this.. or here is a link to fix your problem. That was exactly the input I was looking for.

So im not here to fight or be a ricer noob, but to learn from you guys and go from here on my project. So i am going to ask some more specific questions to this thread and hope for more positives, as i know i have quite a ebay purchased car now, but that's half the fun, finding and fixing it all!

1. If shell 5w-30 high mileage was a bad choice, please inform me of a good solid oil.. i have no idea of mileage on the motor but the car is at 101,xxx.

2. Will i just unbolt the cas and turn it 180* and bolt it back up?

3. My car has a very weird issue, I was trying to figure some things out yesterday and accidentally hit the gas.. my car didn't rev until i let off but hit a rev limiter at 4k. Is this a stock option for just an occasion or is this possibly from a tune?

3. I did notice that on top of my turbo, it says tdo5 on the housing and its the matte grey.. not the chrome housings that almost all of the ebay turbo kits use. So when it stops raining, ill try to get more identifying marks from the turbo.

4. Could the light oil i had put in, be a cause of some of the lifter chatter? That and the fact the p.o has been using 87 octane?

5. Would this be a acceptable turbo intake? STM 4" INTAKE PIPE KIT (NO MAF)

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Thats what i was going for vtec! I'm surprised i had some many.. not per say, rude comments, but more negative such as, I cant believe this this and this is done this way or that way.. but no positive input, such as, you have a 90s Cas installed and it appears to be inverted, but you can do this and this.. or here is a link to fix your problem. That was exactly the input I was looking for.

So im not here to fight or be a ricer noob, but to learn from you guys and go from here on my project. So i am going to ask some more specific questions to this thread and hope for more positives, as i know i have quite a ebay purchased car now, but that's half the fun, finding and fixing it all!

1. If shell 5w-30 high mileage was a bad choice, please inform me of a good solid oil.. i have no idea of mileage on the motor but the car is at 101,xxx.

2. Will i just unbolt the cas and turn it 180* and bolt it back up?

3. My car has a very weird issue, I was trying to figure some things out yesterday and accidentally hit the gas.. my car didn't rev until i let off but hit a rev limiter at 4k. Is this a stock option for just an occasion or is this possibly from a tune?

3. I did notice that on top of my turbo, it says tdo5 on the housing and its the matte grey.. not the chrome housings that almost all of the ebay turbo kits use. So when it stops raining, ill try to get more identifying marks from the turbo.

4. Could the light oil i had put in, be a cause of some of the lifter chatter? That and the fact the p.o has been using 87 octane?

5. Would this be a acceptable turbo intake? STM 4" INTAKE PIPE KIT (NO MAF)

Hey, don't worry about it. We always give people a hard time when it's suitable.

I see you're in The Bluff - you're about an hour and a half from me. If the car runs or you can move it, you could bring it down one day and I'd be happy to lend a hand.

Light oil with stock lifters will usually caused Lifter Tick.

You need to position your engine at TDC and line up the timing notch on the CAS. When you remove the CAS, you'll see it. There is a notch taken out of the edge of the butterfly and a timing mark on the CAS body itself. When you install the CAS, it won't line up perfectly with the cam, but it's safe to rotate the butterfly to match it.

 

[VtecvrsTurbo]

Thats what i was going for vtec! I'm surprised i had some many.. not per say, rude comments, but more negative such as, I cant believe this this and this is done this way or that way.. but no positive input, such as, you have a 90s Cas installed and it appears to be inverted, but you can do this and this.. or here is a link to fix your problem. That was exactly the input I was looking for.

So im not here to fight or be a ricer noob, but to learn from you guys and go from here on my project. So i am going to ask some more specific questions to this thread and hope for more positives, as i know i have quite a ebay purchased car now, but that's half the fun, finding and fixing it all!

1. If shell 5w-30 high mileage was a bad choice, please inform me of a good solid oil.. i have no idea of mileage on the motor but the car is at 101,xxx.

2. Will i just unbolt the cas and turn it 180* and bolt it back up?

3. My car has a very weird issue, I was trying to figure some things out yesterday and accidentally hit the gas.. my car didn't rev until i let off but hit a rev limiter at 4k. Is this a stock option for just an occasion or is this possibly from a tune?

3. I did notice that on top of my turbo, it says tdo5 on the housing and its the matte grey.. not the chrome housings that almost all of the ebay turbo kits use. So when it stops raining, ill try to get more identifying marks from the turbo.

4. Could the light oil i had put in, be a cause of some of the lifter chatter? That and the fact the p.o has been using 87 octane?

5. Would this be a acceptable turbo intake? STM 4" INTAKE PIPE KIT (NO MAF)

1. I use 10-30 mobile.

2. Answered

3. Need more info on turbo

4. The lifters will probably tick with any oil you put in it. Get 3g lash lifters, engine sounds SOOO much better with them.

5. Intake looks like it would work great.

 

[darkmajesty06]

Hey, don't worry about it. We always give people a hard time when it's suitable.

I see you're in The Bluff - you're about an hour and a half from me. If the car runs or you can move it, you could bring it down one day and I'd be happy to lend a hand.

Light oil with stock lifters will usually caused Lifter Tick.

You need to position your engine at TDC and line up the timing notch on the CAS. When you remove the CAS, you'll see it. There is a notch taken out of the edge of the butterfly and a timing mark on the CAS body itself. When you install the CAS, it won't line up perfectly with the cam, but it's safe to rotate the butterfly to match it.

Thank you very much. I have weekends off and maybe if its not raining next weekend, I could come down for a visit. As long as i stay out of boost, the car should be fine, until we figure out what all it needs, correct? Plus you gotta promise not to laugh at me.. .

1. I use 10-30 mobile.

2. Answered

3. Need more info on turbo

4. The lifters will probably tick with any oil you put in it. Get 3g lash lifters, engine sounds SOOO much better with them.

5. Intake looks like it would work great.

Good deal. Looks like a lot of this stuff needs my attention but dang this rain.. .

To my understanding, if this is a 90 model 6 bolt, then it would be perfectly fine for the cas to be rotated in the direction it is. Lets say this motor isn't a 90 and the cas is installed improperly.. what would the symptoms be of the improper installed?

I was also reading on the internet and found there is a idle adjuster screw just below the throttle.. mine is screwed as far out as it can possibly go. Should i turn it in more or just leave it alone, until i mess with the tps and throttle body?
Any links to how to properly set up my throttle body and tps or is it just a quick google away?

Thanks for all the help. I just wanted to establish that im here and being honest. No ricer boy FNF mentality in this guy. I love slick, stock sleeper looking dsms!

The turbo is laggy because that's a T3 flanged turbo. Can't see the compressor cover to identify it, but the inlet looks 4" big at least. The brand manifold is megan racing/ebay crap, so it's not only cracked but none of the flanges are flat and level unless the previous owner had them machined flat(doubt it because of the body kit and other "mods"). The BOV is a knockoff as well, and I'd bet $5 that the wastegate is a knock-off too. I'd go out on a limb and say the previous owner put on an ebay "turbo upgrade kit" that came with a turbo, FMIC, manifold, etc. Everything in that engine bay screams eBay. I doubt if it has anything other than the MAF-T at this point. Stop driving it immediately and scan over everything. Pull the ECU see if it is an EPROM and if it's been socketed/chipped or has ECMLink, do you have a wideband? Is there an SAFC in the interior?


I wouldn't doubt if the previous owner is running a shit ton of boost on stock injectors as well as it being untuned. Best to stop driving it to not risk engine damage.

The only thing installed is a turbo timer. With this set up, would you recommend a safc?

Hey there,

So sorry for a double post. While i was messing around today, checking for leaks and what not, i unplugged my maft while the car was running. Noting changed.. No idle or less ticking.. Which is considerably louder today than my previous video. Sonothing changes, i plug it back in and my car dies. Now it won't start.. It tries to fire but just won't.. It'll crank, sputter and die. Never reaches 1000 rpm.

Second problem. I currently have no thermo stat installed.. While the car is running and i take the housing cap off.. Fluid boils out of there.. Like ole faithful boils. I know the way to check on the mustang for blown head basket was to check the fluid while the vehicle was running and if you saw bubbles or it boiled.. Blown gasket for the head..... Then again, never said if it required a thereof or not.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Thank you very much. I have weekends off and maybe if its not raining next weekend, I could come down for a visit. As long as i stay out of boost, the car should be fine, until we figure out what all it needs, correct? Plus you gotta promise not to laugh at me.. .

Haha. Now I'm curious. Let's see this beast.

As far as getting it lined out, I'm sure we can get her stable. Pick up some plugs - bpr6es. NGK. Likely gonna be fouled by the time you make it.

 

[darkmajesty06]

I dont know if i have the guts to put it up on the internet quite yet. I did run into a few new problems...

While i was messing around today, checking for leaks and what not, i unplugged my maft while the car was running. Noting changed.. No idle or less ticking.. Which is considerably louder today than my previous video. Sonothing changes, i plug it back in and my car dies. Now it won't start.. It tries to fire but just won't.. It'll crank, sputter and die. Never reaches 1000 rpm.

Second problem. I currently have no thermo stat installed.. While the car is running and i take the housing cap off.. Fluid boils out of here.. Like ole faithful boils. I know the way to check on the mustang for blown head basket was to check the fluid while the vehicle was running and if you saw bubbles or it boiled.. Blown gasket for the head..... Then again, never said if it required a thermostat or not.

Hmm, i really need some help here. Did i erase the computer or something when i unhooked the gm maf while thecr was running? I thought i needed a maftranslator in order to use the gm maf.. All i have is the maf and then the plug runs straight to my old maf plug and plugs in. The plug that runs between the maf and the old maf plug says ecm tuning. Plus it has about 4 wires that arent hooked into anything.

My car was running strong, other than the high idle, until i unpluged this maf.. Now it wont even fire.. Just cranks.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Hfuwhsvcyeus

ECMtuning you say. This could be great for you! There is a chance that the car has one of the best tuning solutions available for us. It's called ECMlink. You should pull out your ecu, remove the four small screws around the sides, and carefully open it. If there is a large red chip that says ECMlink, you're officially in luck with a 500-600 dollar tuning solution that can do just about anything. Make sure to disconnect the battery before doing this.

After you check this, we can carry on.

 

[darkmajesty06]

Okay,

Ill go get it and report asap!!

 

[BastardTalon]

What is going on with that uicp?

 

[streetraceboi]

It LOOKS like the BISS screw is missing. Thats the Base Idle Set Screw, which is located on the front of the throttle body..cause I hear a HUGE vacuum leak.

Running a thicker oil will help with the lifter tick...its pretty common for DSMs.

Get yourself a simple FP intake from http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/maintenance-repairs/www.ForcedPerformance.com....or even the Classifieds Section...if you have access to it yet

Get a new valve cover, since that one will most likely have a pool full of oil in it before long

Get a new blow-off valve, thats that purple top hat looking thing on the upper pipe, its most likely leaking like a prostitutes asshole

Its most likely a 90 Cam Angle Sensor so I would ignore everyones post about that

Run boost source (possibly get a fitting welded) to your lower intercooler pipe, which is the one that comes off the turbo, to tap your wastegate into.

Remove that box on the firewall that the throttle cable comes out of, thats your cruise control box. replace the throttle cable with one off a NON cruise control model...90-94

 

[darkmajesty06]

Hfuwhsvcyeus

ECMtuning you say. This could be great for you! There is a chance that the car has one of the best tuning solutions available for us. It's called ECMlink. You should pull out your ecu, remove the four small screws around the sides, and carefully open it. If there is a large red chip that says ECMlink, you're officially in luck with a 500-600 dollar tuning solution that can do just about anything. Make sure to disconnect the battery before doing this.

After you check this, we can carry on.

Lol, this was a little harder than i thought.. My hands are big and im having probl
ems getting to the ecu bolts. Ill report in after work.

What is going on with that uicp?

What do you mean exactly?

It LOOKS like the BISS screw is missing. Thats the Base Idle Set Screw, which is located on the front of the throttle body..cause I hear a HUGE vacuum leak.

Running a thicker oil will help with the lifter tick...its pretty common for DSMs.

Get yourself a simple FP intake from http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/maintenance-repairs/www.ForcedPerformance.com....or even the Classifieds Section...if you have access to it yet

Get a new valve cover, since that one will most likely have a pool full of oil in it before long

Get a new blow-off valve, thats that purple top hat looking thing on the upper pipe, its most likely leaking like a prostitutes asshole

Its most likely a 90 Cam Angle Sensor so I would ignore everyones post about that

Run boost source (possibly get a fitting welded) to your lower intercooler pipe, which is the one that comes off the turbo, to tap your wastegate into.

Remove that box on the firewall that the throttle cable comes out of, thats your cruise control box. replace the throttle cable with one off a NON cruise control model...90-94

Thank you very much, ill check into everything you have suggested and get back. My main interest now is just getting my car to start and stay running.

 

[uummm]

Compression test would be a good idea too. IMHO that car kinda looks ragged out by just looking at the engine, a compression test would help to tell you what your really looking at (if it needs rebuilt).