90 Talon Weekend Warrior. Tucked Everything, HTA68 + N20

[EclipseOwner95]

Can you explain where'd you run the brake lines. some pics would be appreciated also.

I left the driver side front alone, it was so short and already relatively hidden I didn't feel the ammount of work to completely hide it would be worth it.

As far as the passanger one goes,I ran it straight down onto subframe, behind the rear motor mount, and out near where the axle is. I'll try to get some pics this weekend to give you a better idea, its kind of hard to explain.

 

[4g63thermal]

Sorry SLOW93, I was asking the OP about his passenger side break line. I also wanted to add that it looks very good and hope mine will turn out the same.

 

[OOO_ROB]

very nice

 

[96eclipsedude]

nice build so far.

 

[zachyd23]

Great build so far!!!!!!! Fun to read

 

[sobmurda]

Wow! Nice build I had the same color 1g and everything, brings back alot of memories...

 

[EclipseOwner95]

Hey guys, had a half day at work so me and Vic went back out to the shop to try to get some more stuff done. Made a lot of progress again, but also took a few steps backward due to unforeseen circumstances.

1. I ordered the ECMLink GM-MAF cable so I could ditch the translator. Tried to fire up the car, and it wouldn't stay running for nothing. Acting like there was no MAF. Had a CEL for IAT & Baro sensor. I saw that on ECMLink forums that there would be a drop down menu under the MAF selection of GM-MAF, well mine didn't have that option. Couldn't figure it out. Did some more reading and realized that V3 Lite doesn't support their MAF cable. So I had to shell out another $125 to upgrade to the full V3.

2. The car has 2g GSX Calipers in the front, but the install was never finished, made some brake lines and got everything ready to install, and there is no banjo bolts for the calipers. No one carries them locally, so I had to order them from Summit. A small hiccup, but lame none the less.

3. By far the worst, went to bleed the clutch, and we couldn't get good pressure, even with the rod all the way out it still couldn't get into gear. Further investigation revealed that the clutch pedal assembly is toast. It had already been repaired once and I guess it had let go again and we were unaware. So I have to get a new clutch pedal assembly, on top of having to remove the BMC & CMC and all the other things that we JUST got done installing in order to swap out the assembly.

That's the worst of it thought, nothing I'm not used to, DSM's are always full of disappointments .

On a positive note, the car runs great with V3 and the MAF cable, finished installing the FMIC and STM Oil cooler. Still have to make an engine ground, and once we take the car for a drive to make sure everything is good under driving conditions loom and route all the wiring that's under the dash. It's a mess right now, but will be taken care of soon
enough. Still need to adjust the coil pack location under the intake manifold. I even bought 2 sets of spark plug wires to use the 2 longest ones and I still can't get them to route in the factory location so don't mind them, they won't be like when its done.

Giving nothing else appears in the finishing touches I hope to have the car on the road by this weekend. Here are some pics and video of the car running. Man I love the sound of a 4g63 with a lopey ass idle! (The Link is at the bottom)
PS: I'm going to take the FP manifold off and coat it. I was under the assumption that it was coated to begin with and wasn't going to rust. I can't stand the way it looks now.

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/RgeosiRAlZ0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Bricktop]

Super clean job on the harness. Best one I have seen yet.

 

[907dsm]

You're attention to detail is great man, I love the way how the engine bay came out. Are you planning on running ethanol??

Alex

 

[EclipseOwner95]

You're attention to detail is great man, I love the way how the engine bay came out. Are you planning on running ethanol??

Alex

I may switch over in the future, but for right now the car will be running on 100 octane 24/7. I live right across the street from an airport and its only like a dollar more per gallon than 93 is.

 

[1SLOW93TURBO]

How long have you been using aviation gas 100LL? It's not really designed for our boosted application. It's made to burn at a constant rpm and is very dry. I'm just trying to see if you've had good luck with it because I know of several people that have melted pistons "trying 100LL av gas". Years ago NA drag cars use to mix a 55 gallon drum using 35gal of 100LL, 10gal 92 octane and 5 gal toluene to make cheap 104 octane fuel. If you haven't used it I'm giving you a heads up.

 

[EclipseOwner95]

How long have you been using aviation gas 100LL? It's not really designed for our boosted application. It's made to burn at a constant rpm and is very dry. I'm just trying to see if you've had good luck with it because I know of several people that have melted pistons "trying 100LL av gas". Years ago NA drag cars use to mix a 55 gallon drum using 35gal of 100LL, 10gal 92 octane and 5 gal toluene to make cheap 104 octane fuel. If you haven't used it I'm giving you a heads up.

Interesting. I've ran my dsm's and seen others on nothing but 100LL for the past 2 years. At its most " powerful " point one of the cars had a stock bottom end, PTE 50 trim, and a 75 shot, I was surprised the engine didn't let go, but definitely have had 0 issues with running 100LL.

 

[Josh97eclipse]

Man I wish I could even begin to think on how to wire tuck my bay. Good job man.

 

[1SLOW93TURBO]

Well from your feedback I'd say it will work for you HP area then. The guys I am referring to were in the 600-700hp range. I was one that melted (2) 2jz motors in my supra before deciding C16 was cheaper in the long run then I no longer had any problems. Just keep a close eye on plugs for metal from detonation and you should be fine.

 

[EclipseOwner95]

Well from your feedback I'd say it will work for you HP area then. The guys I am referring to were in the 600-700hp range. I was one that melted (2) 2jz motors in my supra before deciding C16 was cheaper in the long run then I no longer had any problems. Just keep a close eye on plugs for metal from detonation and you should be fine.

True yah I'm still on a stock bottom end so 500 is pushing the envelope .

And I always keep a close eye on knock. Have the CEL come on at 1* of knock retard which is only 3 counts. If that CEL comes on at any part of the pull I immediately let out. I know I'm stressing this 150k mile bottom end to its limit's no sense in taking any chances.

I'll either switch to E85 soon or just start buying 55gal drums of 110 they sell locally at a speed shop near by.

 

[92DSMErdrick]

Wow, your car came out mint. I'm deff bookmarking this page for reference. You're lucky that they allow you to buy 100LL. I was planning on going that route a few years ago when I worked at the airport. Technically where I worked they can't sell 100LL unless you have a registered aircraft. This was 3-4 years ago. Since then E85 is easier and cheaper to acquire

 

[EclipseOwner95]

Wow, your car came out mint. I'm deff bookmarking this page for reference. You're lucky that they allow you to buy 100LL. I was planning on going that route a few years ago when I worked at the airport. Technically where I worked they can't sell 100LL unless you have a registered aircraft. This was 3-4 years ago. Since then E85 is easier and cheaper to acquire

Wow , around here there's two different small aircraft airports that you can just drive your car onto the strip, pull up to the pump, and filler up!

 

[Red 2g GSX]

How long have you been using aviation gas 100LL? It's not really designed for our boosted application. It's made to burn at a constant rpm and is very dry. I'm just trying to see if you've had good luck with it because I know of several people that have melted pistons "trying 100LL av gas". Years ago NA drag cars use to mix a 55 gallon drum using 35gal of 100LL, 10gal 92 octane and 5 gal toluene to make cheap 104 octane fuel. If you haven't used it I'm giving you a heads up.

Just curious why you think the av gas caused the piston's to melt in the Supras? How do you know they were not running too lean or some other cause?

As an ex GA mechanic I'm very familiar with av gas (and your right about it being very dry, I use to wash my hands with it, dried my skin out really bad) and saw countless engine come through after thousands of hours of operation on av gas. Many of them were turbocharged engine's running massive amounts of boost and spending their entire life at WOT. The only negative thing I ever saw was: after years of burning it, you will get lead build ups on the top of the pistons and the valve, but the life of a high performance car engine is too short to worry about this. As a general rule leaded gas = good (unless your an environmental Nazi). The lead is added to av gas lubricate the valves, and the fuel pumps.

I hear this claim about av gas is bad for turbo cars all the time and never see any facts, just a bunch of opinions and hear say. A fuel injected GA aircraft runs very similar fuel pressure compared to our cars, and I just don't see why a gasoline would care if the engine changes RPM constantly.

Are you a Petroleum Engineer or some sort of Material Scientist?

 

[1SLOW93TURBO]

Red 2g... I'm not anybody just been around boosted cars for years and friends with many many people pushing the limits of streetable cars. I havent really studied the fuel but all of the circumstances I have seen are guys that run c16 or similar vp fuel including myself de-tune our cars for 100LL to drive around on and with no knock and 11:4-11:6ish afr's and low boost 25psi) on 72mm+ turbos in all of our cases melted 2 oe 3 pistons and the data log showed everything to be fine. One of them was a $20,000 Titan built motor using Motec for ecu. That was his fault whereas if I had spent $20k on a motor it would've never seen 100LL.

I find your experience and knowledge interesting to say the least but all I can say is it does not work in my opinion and not worth the risk. I know a good tune and when pistons melt it doesn't make sense. Maybe it reads strange on a wideband I really don't know.

What type of airplane engines are you referring to and what type of piston material do they use? Just curious.

 

[nastynine]

WOW one of the cleanest engine bays i've ever seen

 

[rowdygst]

that motor bay is clean, awesome car forsure...keep the pictures coming

subscribed!

 

[Red 2g GSX]

1SLOW,

I'm 99% sure the pistons are some sort of aluminum alloy (as I think most piston engines are) with a special coating. It very much reminded me of Weisco's coating.

Just out of curiosity, did those cars have an EGT gauge? If so any idea what their EGT's were? It seems like a relatively uncommon thing for DSM's / "tuner" cars.

Also, how long did it take for the engine to let go after switching fuels?

I remembered something earlier I found interesting and maybe relatable: the pilot constantly has to adjust the mixture on these engines to account for the changes in atmospheric pressure (changing altitude) there are very specific instructions for adjusting the mixture. The ONLY thing the engine manufactures give a shit about it's the EGT especially for turbocharged engines. According to them if the EGT is correct, the AFR is correct and you're not going to melt pistons (which is true to some extent). They take this so seriously that if the pilot exceeds the EGT "redline" by 20%, the engine has to be taken apart and inspected for damage caused by over heating (no pilot ever owns up to screwing up so this rarely happens). But we did see a few engines come in with low compression due to a half melted piston, and turns out they were leaning the hell out of it trying to save fuel. Keep in mind that these are 180-200hp, 360cubic inch, N/A 4 cylinders, turning less than 2700 rpm, so were not talking about some high strung engine that's being pushed.

1SLOW, I'm not saying your wrong; I'm just trying to figure out if it's true with facts. Maybe it is. Maybe there is an additive that AV gas has that auto gas doesn't that causes the flame front to be much hotter.

 

[EclipseOwner95]

Heres a comparison pic of the motor bay we were modeling the project off of. Got pretty close !

I was never a fan of the "Hyundai" valve covers, or at least this one, the newer ones that have the "shaved" look are nice, but I just wasn't a fan of the one on the car. So we took a stock one, drilled out the holes for the VC breather and PCV and installed 1/8 NPT to -6AN adapters to run braided line for the Catch-Can. I had to order some more fittings to complete the install so its not 100% yet, thats why the other line just runs over the intake instead of to the catch can.

I also ordered new silicone couplers for the IC pipes so they'll all match. Call me picky but I just felt like it threw the whole motor bay off with black, blue, and red couplers.

Here is the brake line routing and finished product. Also you can see the barbs we ran through the fire wall so I could mount the MAP sensor and Boost sensor inside the cockpit. And if you look closely you can see the clutch line running straight down, its routed underneath the engine along the passenger side cross member and comes up directly to the slave from underneath.

And with all the hurdles installing the 2G GSX calipers out of the way, I could finally drive it! Proof that it moves

 

[riopgtmn]

Hey,

I'm doing the same thing, but a bit different route. I just posted a few teaser pics... Will be posting more soon

It's all Mil-Spec Tefzel Wire, Solid State Crydom Relay setup is all custom, Fully Modular-harness, Quick-Disconnect cannon plug on firewall, etc

Check it out...

Mil-Spec Wiring... // 2G DSM

BTW, Great job / attention to detail

 

[_801_]

Your detail in that engine bay is incredible, Your skill with that harness is one of the best I have ever seen