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90 eclipse gsx autox

racer009

Proven Member
96
0
Feb 14, 2010
las vegas, Nevada
Finally made progress on the build. had a new mount for the intercooler and radiator made. got all the piping cut and fitted. I do however still need another 90 degree rubber boot and clamps for the change in the pipe route i had to go with to make everything work. I can finally put everything together and leave it that way. all that's left to do is connect all my wiring and fill her with fluids. I'm getting so close to getting it started just a couple more weeks hopefully.

IMAG0515_zpse20bc413.jpg
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heres the mount for the radiator and inter cooler

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everything being test fitted

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random pic of the engine bay
 

J_HEATH

Proven Member
429
7
May 30, 2010
Mobile, Alabama
S90 tb uses factory tps. Also that Megan manifold is going to crack, its thin wall steel and low grade. Megan is okay for down pipes and cat backs, but I've never seen one of their or cxracing manifolds last long. I'm not bashing, just saying since you have so much money in it i'd advize you to invest in a decent exhaust manifold. Also do you have any port work done to the head? I see you state you are running 288 cams and oversized vales, you will not see a benefit from this with stock porting, also with BC springs you won't be able to rev the motor high enough to see a benefit of those large cams. Last, what head studs are you running?
 

ludedude13

Probationary Member
6
0
Jan 14, 2012
ann arbor, Michigan
no real update. yesterday was pay day so i finally got everything for my welder to try and start welding everything. It was a major fail. the stupid harbor freight welder has no pedal control and is too hot for how thin the metal is just melts right through everything. so i tried lowering the power and I won't get an arc from it. anyone have one of those hf arc/tig welders that can give me some tips?
IMAG0349.jpg
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Tig welding cars sheet metal doesnt work very well, where the extra time and effort spent wont vastly improve the strength/quality of the weld. Mig welding is the way to go, will take at least half the time and make just as good of a weld.

something to try for not arcing on lower amperage, is to start with the tungsten on the metal, then lifting off slightly and hitting the button. Good luck!
 

9!'clipseDOHC

Moderator
4,837
233
Aug 24, 2003
El Paso, Texas
I'm sorry to echo the concerns of Brian, but racer009, have you given any thought to autox classes? I would recommend that you at least go to an event and talk with some of the drivers and get a feel for who the events work and the classes and PAX and possibly get a ride around the course with someone. At this point your car is going to be in such a high class that it will make it extremely hard to be competitive. Anytime you do a build for a certain type of racing (in this case autox) your first step should be to pick a class and build the car to fit within the confines of the class.
 

racer009

Proven Member
96
0
Feb 14, 2010
las vegas, Nevada
S90 tb uses factory tps. Also that Megan manifold is Also do you have any port work done to the head? I see you state you are running 288 cams and oversized vales, you will not see a benefit from this with stock porting, also with BC springs you won't be able to rev the motor high enough to see a benefit of those large cams. Last, what head studs are you running?

yes I ported the head. it's nothing too extreme, more just gasket matching and I edged the divider in the ports, with all the ports matched to each other and manifold. I also had bigger valve seats put in by a machine shop. I had no about the valve springs not being able to support the cams. I will have to look into getting better springs. any suggestions. I have l19 arp head studs.
 

Xploitn

Proven Member
174
0
Dec 19, 2011
Denver, Colorado
First off, feel free to ask us any questions you have about autocross, above all else we want to see you enjoy yourself and do well!

I think all of us are thinking the same thing, what class are you running in? Have you read the 2013 Solo Rules? They break out every possible modification that you can do for each class.

I run in Street Prepared (ESP) because I'm choosing to stay with a stock turbo. In my class, I will running against late model, modiifed, V8 Mustang GTs. They will be hard to beat, but I'm just glad I'm not in Street Modified (SM) which is even more competitive but I'll let Brian or others speak to that!

I'm way less familiar with the Prepared and Modified classes, are you guys seeing anything with his internal engine mods that put him in either of those classes? I would definitely keep all stock parts that you have until you are comfortable with the class or are in. That being said, stock parts can be found for CHEAP so they aren't that hard to buy back used.

Even in this post I had to reference the rulebook a couple times so I didn't give out wrong info. Read them.
http://www.scca.com/assets/2013%20Solo%20Rules.pdf
 

dsmpat95

Proven Member
883
8
Apr 21, 2008
Savannah, Georgia
SM class is a pain to compete in, for one I run in the SM class, it has some highly modified cars. More money than I really wanted to drop in mine. As for turbo's the evo III 16g is very good. The biggest turbo I would run would be a FP green. I seen others run the FP red but due to most of the track layouts, the car is either really fast or really slow.
 

racer009

Proven Member
96
0
Feb 14, 2010
las vegas, Nevada
I may have gone over board with my car, not looking at regulations for what class I would be put in with the modifications I have done to my car. I"ll have to get another link or go onto the site later. If anything I'd be in an unlimited class.
 

9!'clipseDOHC

Moderator
4,837
233
Aug 24, 2003
El Paso, Texas
I race my Evo in Street Touring and am competitive. Before that I used to race my 1g in SP and then eventually SM, because of the mods done to it. However that is a very expensive class to run in (to actually be competitive) and even if you spend a ton of money and have your car properly modified within the class limits, it is still really hard to be competitive as a beginner to the sport because thee faster your car is the more difficult it will be to handle and drive properly. I eventually stopped autoxing my DSM because it couldn't be competitive in that high of a class.
 

9!'clipseDOHC

Moderator
4,837
233
Aug 24, 2003
El Paso, Texas

racer009

Proven Member
96
0
Feb 14, 2010
las vegas, Nevada
out of all the classes I've read, it seems like I will have to be in the street modified. It would be great to find a complete stock 1g to begin just to get back into racing again.
 

Xploitn

Proven Member
174
0
Dec 19, 2011
Denver, Colorado
out of all the classes I've read, it seems like I will have to be in the street modified. It would be great to find a complete stock 1g to begin just to get back into racing again.

Stock 1g? Do those still exist? I don't remember the last time I've seen one without a FMIC! :) That would be the way to go though.

Definitely race this car you are building, at least a couple times. It'll be fun for sure, you just won't be taking home any trophies is all.

Could the guys that are familiar with the SM class verify for him whether the cams and porting are allowed?
 

racer009

Proven Member
96
0
Feb 14, 2010
las vegas, Nevada
That's something i would like to know. i can't get the scca rule page to load on my computer for some reason. The link 9!'clipseDOHC posted to the one on the site doesn't give all details as well. i also have a stripped wiring harness and completely gutted car. One of the classes said it allows the removal of speakers and stereo but not the wires. They also don't say much about interior either Just says rear passenger seats can be removed.
 

Xploitn

Proven Member
174
0
Dec 19, 2011
Denver, Colorado
Yeah the link that I posted can be flaky in chrome. It never loads for me as well... (I thought it was just me) It works for me in internet explorer or you could try firefox.

If all else fails, right click and "save target as..." and save it to your computer then open it outside of a browser.

I wish I knew more about SM to directly answer your questions. Sorry man, maybe I'll do some research tomorrow if you don't get your answers by then.
 

GofaST4life

Proven Member
2,898
132
Oct 21, 2007
Medina 44256, Ohio
Awesome build man! Should be a monster when your finished!

but I do agree with everyone on the AutoX issue. That much power, and that setup is not ideal at all to be competitive. Will it be fun?? Hell yes! But if your looking to win and take home some trophies, its going to be very hard.

Either way keep up the good work!
 

racer009

Proven Member
96
0
Feb 14, 2010
las vegas, Nevada
My car is almost complete. all the wiring is connected, everything is bolted down where it needs to be. The only thing I am waiting on is this last coupler for my turbo piping and I need to get an o2 bung. On fixing the wiring where the previous owner spliced in the safc I found a questionable black wire with a white chaser connected to a red wire which then is connected to a white wire

IMAG0534_zps6707b493.jpg
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I have also been working on a piece for my dash to hold my gauges. it looks alright. theres areas that could have been fixed.

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so any day now I should be able to get this thing fired up.

So i tried starting it and no luck. It ran about as long as i had my starter on then just backfires and dies. I'm not sure what else i need to adjust on link to fix that.I'll do more playing around with it today after i charge the battery.
 

racer009

Proven Member
96
0
Feb 14, 2010
las vegas, Nevada
I was able to get the car started for a short period of time. had a lot more bad gas in the tank than I thought. A few things i noticed when I did have it running was my o2 sensor isn't reading I think. There's spikes here and there that show up but once I got it idling on its own there was nothing. timing is jumping around from 5 to 20 degrees even when idling. Also think i have a leak at my ofh. I'm taking a break right now to figure things out and keep cool. I need someone up in washington that knows how to use link to help.
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[/URL][/IMG]
 

racer009

Proven Member
96
0
Feb 14, 2010
las vegas, Nevada
Can someone help me with my tuning. I cant seem to get my car to run correctly at idle.
View attachment 1apr13start2.elg

timing is jumping all over the place, O2 sensor barely even reading, and i have codes for tps crankposition sensor and volumetric sensor malfuntion. It's backfiring and popping and smells like its just running rich.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

racer009

Proven Member
96
0
Feb 14, 2010
las vegas, Nevada
So I figured out why my car was running so bad. I didn't correctly set up my baro and iat in the ecu. now I'm having a no start problem. I've checked everything fuel, spark, compression. have them all. what I did notice though while checking my spark is both my 1&4 and 2&3 are sparking at the same time. a 0022 crankshaft sensor code popped up. Could my cas be 180* off, is my coil pack bad? I have no clue what I'm missing here.
 
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