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7bolt oil pan install

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400awhpgsx

15+ Year Contributor
128
0
Mar 4, 2007
Plymouth, Minnesota
I went to change my oil today and when I put the bolt back in the oil pan after I was done I found it was starting to strip. I've already got a new oil pan and I'll get the gasket soon, along with all new bolts. My question is if anybody knows of a good write up or something for replacing the oil pan or if anybody has any advice that may help me. From the looks of it, it seems pretty simple, but I was quoted 3 hours from a professional shop near me. Thanks in advance!
-brian
 
After I removed my oil pan the last time, banging out the dents with a brave hand and hammer worked pretty well :thumb: Of course, that was only to straighten out the lip.

The other guy was talkin about using a wrench to stick through the oil drain plug and pull out the dents. That's how I read it at least. I can see taking off the oil pan and fixing dents, but trying to do it while it's on the car might be a little tough.
 
DO NOT use black RTV. That stuff will not hold well AT ALL, trust me on this. Use either ultra grey RTV or permatex 'right stuff'.

Black holds up just fine in my experience. I have used it on my Jeep rear ends and other parts that get hot and have had no problem.
 
Perhaps it was just my personal experiences, but black RTV dries in a transparent 'smoke' type of RTV. I've only used black for a short amount of time before giving up because it would never hold the seal of whatever I was trying to bolt on. i.e., thermo housing, oil drain, etc. With the hassle and time of pulling an oil pan, I suggest NOT using black RTV because it is an unecessary risk to take if it really doesn't hold up. Besides, FSM implies the use of ultra grey, but I've found that the new permatex stuff is awesome.
 
According to my buddies rtv book back ultra or grey would work best. I'll probably sport the grey just because it'll be easier to see on the black oil pan. That way I make sure I don't miss anywhere.
 
Perhaps it was just my personal experiences, but black RTV dries in a transparent 'smoke' type of RTV. I've only used black for a short amount of time before giving up because it would never hold the seal of whatever I was trying to bolt on. i.e., thermo housing, oil drain, etc. With the hassle and time of pulling an oil pan, I suggest NOT using black RTV because it is an unecessary risk to take if it really doesn't hold up. Besides, FSM implies the use of ultra grey, but I've found that the new permatex stuff is awesome.

Good insight, for sure. Having to remove the oil pan and deal with the mess again is not worth the hassle.

Little off topic, but I've been using the "red" lately, but actually it is orange. It's been working great at containing a couple small oil leaks I had.
 
Deja vu!

The pan is a royal pain to get on and off once it's unbolted. There is a baseball-sized hole in a baffle in the pan and the oil pickup head passes through when installed. The head of the pickup gets caught on the rim of that baffle hole when you're removing and the pickup hits the baffle (misses the hole) when you're installing. You can't see it, so you don't know which way to move, etc. Anyway, don't yank too hard or you might damage the pickup. And it doesn't come straight down and off, you have to figure out how to angle it, shift it, etc. to get it free.

Put the RTV bead along the inside of the bolt holes or you'll leak out around the bolts (Haynes has pictures of what to do).

Use a 1/4" ratchet and socket to get the pan bolts next to the axle (that you can't reach without unbolting the bearing bracket supporting the axle). You won't fit a 3/8" 10mm socket in there.

If you have the new pan in thinner and it eats the paint off, repaint the outside so it doesn't rust apart over a couple of years.

Have you tried removing the turbo oil return tube from the turbo end? Not sure if you can get the pan out of there with the tube still on it, but you might stare at it and see if that's an option.

The gaskets on each end of the oil return tube are different. The kit I got online gave me two of the same...the turbo end. I had to modify the gasket for the oil pan with an XActo knife. So if you get a new oil return tube gasket set, make sure they look different in the online picture if possible.

Make sure you get the shorter pan bolts in the right holes under the t-belt. I believe Haynes points this out, too, but if not, search until you know for sure. Don't want to tear the t-belt and trash your valves, head, and piston crowns.

I had my wife help support the oil pan when reinstalling so I could maneuver the "deep end" of the pan around the oil pickup without smearing the RTV bead. She didn't like being under a car that would kill her if a jackstand failed. But we got it on without bumping the RTV and it hasn't leaked since...which is good, because she won't get under there again. LOL
 
You're right, it is a pain to get the oil pan off. I've got the pan all cleaned up and repainted and ready to go back on.

And I'm not even planning on using a gasket for the oil drain line. I just used a glob of rtv last time and it worked fine so I'll just do that again.

I also took off the 2 14mm bolts but i can only move the axle like 1/2 inch. Any idea why I can't move it more???
 
I also took off the 2 14mm bolts but i can only move the axle like 1/2 inch. Any idea why I can't move it more???

Yeah, it doesn't move much, but it was enough so that I could get the 1/4" drive socket and extension past the axle/CV joint to get the pan bolt back in. I was stuck until someone pointed out that a 1/4" socket would do the trick. I could *not* do it with a 3/8" socket/extension.
 
^ok sweet ill give that a try in the morning. I started drinking too much too early and i didnt get much work done haha. I did manage to get a bolt stuck in the bolt, and when i went to drill it for an easy out i broke the bit off in the bolt. Fantastic. idk what im gunna go now
 
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