7bolt oil pan install

[400awhpgsx]

I went to change my oil today and when I put the bolt back in the oil pan after I was done I found it was starting to strip. I've already got a new oil pan and I'll get the gasket soon, along with all new bolts. My question is if anybody knows of a good write up or something for replacing the oil pan or if anybody has any advice that may help me. From the looks of it, it seems pretty simple, but I was quoted 3 hours from a professional shop near me. Thanks in advance!
-brian

 

[spyder97gs]

It's been a couple years since I've done it but if I remember right I had to drop the down pipe and it all went smooth except for one bolt. Something was in the way of getting the last bolt on. I'm thinking it was an axle that needs to be pulled possibly.

 

[400awhpgsx]

^yea it looks like I may have to drop down my axle as well to get to a couple of the bolts. In addition to that I have to lower my transfer case which means drop down my whole exhaust as well. Holy cow, this is turning into a lot of work.

 

[ricktb]

Dude I just went through this yesterday and finished no problems. Yes there was some unexpected extra work but not too much check this out.

Theres one bolt you need to remove a panel that covers the bottom of the flywheel. (3 extra bolts no biggie) And theres another bolt directly above the axel you can barely see, but don't worry. The axel is held in place by 2 more bolts above the axel. Pull those two and you can pry the axel to the side just enough to get to the last oilpan bolt.

The hardest part was figuring this out, but now you have the answer and just have the work left! Oh yeah its a bit of a bi*** to work around the downpipe but you can flex that around to do the work. Also yes the transfer case has to come off (5 bolts) and make sure you keep the narrow end higher than the fat end 'cause the fluid will leak out on your brand new sean john t-shirt. You can slide it right off the driveshaft and put it to the side.

Another tip for reinstall the oilpan. Scrape as much of the old gasket off both mating surfaces and clean with brake cleaner. Use a 1/4" bead of RTV on the groove along the oil pan and around the bolt holes. Try to find 4 one inch M6 studs to align the pan while reinstall or your likely to smear the bead and reduce its sealing effectiveness. You can pull these out and replace with bolts after.

Lightly tighten the bolts so you can see a bit squeeze out, let sit overnight (12-24 hours) and then torque to spec. Careful you don't need to reef on it, just a decent pressure (I think like only 7 foot pounds of torque, look it up).

Good luck bro.

ps. for the studs.. I couldn't find these easily so I went to home depot and bought 4 M6 bolts and dremeled the heads off.. they worked like a charm

 

[400awhpgsx]

^sweet thanks for the help!

My exhaust is all one piece so I had to just drop the whole thing. I've also got the tcase sitting on the floor right now. I'm stuck right now trying to get my turbo oil drain off. One of the bolts is pretty stripped and I'm running outa ideas. I've gotta get that so I can get to a bold that's starting to strip right behind it. I'm heading back to school in a few hours, but next weekend I was planning on dropping the axle and getting the last two, but if you think I can just push it aside I might just try that instead.

Could you elaborate about how and why you used those M6 bolts to line it up. Also, how did you go about getting the oil pan unstuck? I've got a spare one so I'm planning on just rippin it off however possible, but if you have any advice that'd be much unappreciated.

 

[tbonitz301]

I believe what he was saying is that he put four bolts in each corner after he cut the heads off of them,and then used them as a guide to get your pan aligned with minimal lateral movement.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

You don't need to remove the axle to get to the oil pan. There are two M8 (14mm head) bolts holding on the carrier bearing of the driver's side axle. If you unbolt that, the axle will have enough freeplay for you to move it around. As for the oil pan itself, use a scraper to remove as much as you can (as said before). I also like to spray some gasket remover on there a couple of times to make sure that both surfaces are as clean as possible. UltraGrey RTV is the recommended sealant of choice here to use, but I've had great success lately with permatex 'right stuff'. The KEY (I mean it!) is to apply a nice healthy bead around the entire pan, hand tighten a couple of bolts around the pan to align it, then hand tighten the rest of the bolts (very little torque). Let it sit overnight (seriously!) and then torque to spec.

 

[ricktb]

I used a flat screwdriver to slowly turn and pop the pan, and some spot prying.

'blcknspoolin' I used the high temp rtv copper, do you think I will have trouble removing the pan in the future?

'tbonitz301' yea the studs worked as a guide, though I give full credit to the wisemen before me who thought this through, If only I could find the link again.

 

[stockfornow]

I just did mine on a 1g and here's what I did:

1 Dropped the downpipe
2 Removed the frame rail, not sure for a 2G
3 Took the T-case off
4 Took flywheel cover off
5 Undid 2 14mm bolts that hold the half-shaft
6 Took 2 10mm bolts off the oil return line
7 Removed the oil pan bolts


Side note, there are 2 shorter bolts on the oil pan that go by the timing belt, make sure you put them back in the same place. Otherwise you can ruin you timing belt!!!!!!

 

[400awhpgsx]

wow so much great info! Using longer bolts as guides is a great idea and I'll definitely be doing that. I'm planning on using black rtv to seal it up as well. I've got my replacement oil pan sitting upside-down in paint thinner right now for a week until I get back home. It should be pretty clean by then and if not I'll scrape it clean.

Right now I'm stuck with a couple stripped bolts. I've tried using a vice grip but the bolt is so old and rusty I'm not getting anywhere. All the other bolts came out just fine with very little effort, but I just cant get a grip on this one. If you've got any tips to getting off stripped bolts lmk.

Thanks again for all the helpful responses!
-brian

 

[ChrisGo]

Right now I'm stuck with a couple stripped bolts. I've tried using a vice grip but the bolt is so old and rusty I'm not getting anywhere. All the other bolts came out just fine with very little effort, but I just cant get a grip on this one. If you've got any tips to getting off stripped bolts lmk.

Thanks again for all the helpful responses!
-brian

Have you tried an easy-out

Screw Extrator | Bolt | Stud Extractor

Sears and maybe Autozone has these. Just wanted to give you some pics so you knew what you where looking for..

 

[meliketoball]

Re-tap the oil pan. If not, take off your down pipe then take off the bolts on the oil pan. When you put the bolts back onto the block, be sure not to over torque them or else you'll stripped or possibly break those.

 

[400awhpgsx]

Have you tried an easy-out

Screw Extrator | Bolt | Stud Extractor

Sears and maybe Autozone has these. Just wanted to give you some pics so you knew what you where looking for..

I guess I could try an easy out. Would I just want to drill into the head of the bolt?

 

[fame]

Yeah, try retaping it and if that doesn't work then remove the oil pan. The only thing that is going to be in your will be the downpipe it very easy and does'nt tkae that much time. I had to change mine when the srews to my oil drain line striped on the oil pan.

 

[lilbro717]

and its good time to check the internals if you take off the oil pan. and i wouldnt use a gasket for the oil pan, use a high temp RTV silicone. thats what i would do

 

[400awhpgsx]

To those of you that only read the first post then reply-I am already in the process of taking the oil pan off.

And it has already been determined that I will have to drop the exhaust and tcase (which I have already done) and move the drivers axle a little.

I am planning on using black rtv and line it up using 4 or 5 large bolts as guides.

 

[400awhpgsx]

and its good time to check the internals if you take off the oil pan. and i wouldnt use a gasket for the oil pan, use a high temp RTV silicone. thats what i would do

How and why should I check my internals from underneath the car???

 

[skyrone]

i think they just mean look over your crankshaft and rods to make sure nothing looks fubar. I was wondering if anybody in this forum had any experience with removing dents in oil pans. i was thinking maybe just taking the drain plug out and trying to pry them out with an allen wrench. any suggestions? And howcome hardly anyone makes an aftermarket 7 bolt oilpan.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

I am planning on using black rtv and line it up using 4 or 5 large bolts as guides.

DO NOT use black RTV. That stuff will not hold well AT ALL, trust me on this. Use either ultra grey RTV or permatex 'right stuff'.

 

[400awhpgsx]

i think they just mean look over your crankshaft and rods to make sure nothing looks fubar. I was wondering if anybody in this forum had any experience with removing dents in oil pans. i was thinking maybe just taking the drain plug out and trying to pry them out with an allen wrench. any suggestions? And howcome hardly anyone makes an aftermarket 7 bolt oilpan.

What would an aftermarket oil pan even look like or do? What's wrong with the stock one? And fyi, the oil pan is pretty strong metal so you might have a hard time popping dents.

 

[BOC Jason]

I used a flat screwdriver to slowly turn and pop the pan, and some spot prying.

I would recommend using a putty knife to get your oil pan to free up. Screw drivers tend to bend the lip causing another leak.

just my .02

 

[Laysher91]

^^^+1. I use a flexible putty knife and work it around the perimeter of the oil pan until I can easily pry it off. Once you break through the old seams, I lightly tap the putty knife to advance it.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

What would an aftermarket oil pan even look like or do? What's wrong with the stock one? And fyi, the oil pan is pretty strong metal so you might have a hard time popping dents.

After I removed my oil pan the last time, banging out the dents with a brave hand and hammer worked pretty well Of course, that was only to straighten out the lip.

I would recommend using a putty knife to get your oil pan to free up. Screw drivers tend to bend the lip causing another leak.

just my .02

^^^+1. I use a flexible putty knife and work it around the perimeter of the oil pan until I can easily pry it off. Once you break through the old seams, I lightly tap the putty knife to advance it.

Yea, I end up using a stubby FAT flat head screwdriver and hammer to pop it off. I never really thought about using a putty knife, good suggestion guys OP: also make sure you are hitting the oil pan in different sections to break the seal, don't just go at it from one point, you'll just end up denting/skewing the oil pan lip.

 

[BOC Jason]

Yes! Equal out your point of impact around the pan

 

[400awhpgsx]

Haha I've got a new oil pan I plan on using so I'm not too worried about the condition of my current oil pan. It's not worth much to me. I just want to make sure I don't bend or ding anything too important. And thanks, I think I'll try that putty knife idea!