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6bolt motor - buying guide

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unplugme71

10+ Year Contributor
185
3
Apr 21, 2011
Central, New Jersey
What should I look for when buying a 6bolt motor to swap into my 2g?

The head and block is already separated. I'm going to replace the rods/pistons, valves, and cams/cam gears - so i'm basically looking at just the head and block/crank.

What do I need to look out for?

How can I tell if its from a turbo or non-turbo?

Does it matter if its from an A/T vs M/Trans?
 
You will have to modify the drivers side motor mount to clear the 6 bolt water pump.
Will need all 6 bolt timing stuff along with a water/oil pump.
If im not mistaken, the n/a and turbo 6 bolt are the same the only differences were the pistons..dont quote me on that tho :p
No, it will not matter wether you have an a/t or m/t block.
The internals, thats really up to you depending on what your power goals really are.
Alot of people get 6 bolt rods with 2g NPR pistons and have had good luck with that.
 
I think you are misunderstanding my post. I'm trying to ask what to look for when buying a block and head as far as if it is damaged or not.

I know what to put inside of it, just want to make sure the condition of the block/head is good. How can I check for that?
 
Just look the block over for any sort of damage. Take the head off and look in the cylinders, if there's rust, move on. I like going for NT blocks because they are less abused, but they don't have oil squirters. Really the blocks are beastly so I wouldn't worry so much as long as it's clean looking.

The head is a different story. If it were me, I would just plan on rebuilding the head. New valves, valve seals, and lifters. You can use an NT head(again less abuse) and switch the cams. Also if you plan on upgrading cams then get better springs/retainers. Some porting would be nice as well.

Both head and block is highly recommended to going to a machine shop. Get the block checked and blueprinted. Get the head surface checked most of all, aluminum will warp. I'd do the machine shop stuff first, in case it needs bored out.
 
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what if there's rust on the pistons/rods only and not the cylinder walls

the motor has been sitting outside for some time, so i'm sure there will be rust
 
If the block has been sitting outside with cylinders exposed I'd move on. The blocks are a dime a dozen. if there's rust there may be pitting, which means it needs bored out, and not just the cylinder, ###### crank bearings and everything else that rotates. It may even have a lake inside of the oil pan.
 
ok, good to know. Thanks!

As for the cylinder head? Anything to look for in that?
 
take something straight and really flat, like a ruler. NEEDS TO BE FLAT. Lay it on the head where it would meet the block, if there is gap somewhere then it's really warped, move on. Check corner to corner side to side etc. It may still be warped, but if it's not that noticeable then at least it's fixable. You won't have to worry about rust since it's aluminum.

You may get a better price for the whole motor at a junk yard then just pulling bits off. So unless you are sure you're getting a good deal on the head then just get the whole thing. You'll have at least all the bolts for the oil/water pumps and such things. That was my problem, I bought a bare block and had to go back to get bolts, water piping, and other stuff that I didn't think I needed until I needed it.
 
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