Buying a complete motor...?

[4G63dsmpwr]

My block has a crack in it. I recently found a motor on the Trader, located in New York. I'm in MA myself, so its going to be about a 5 hour drive each way. I've been speaking to the guy, and he seems like he knows his stuff about DSMs.

He says that the motor was rebuilt - installed in his 92 - and then the 92 was totaled. Says he's got pictures of the smashed car and everything. This is the only way I would buy a used "running" motor - why else would you have a working motor out of the car - right?

Now this is what he's told me about the motor:

Whats Included: Block, Head, Intake Manifold, Valve Cover, Timing belt.

Price: $600.

Specs:

92 - 6 bolt
10k miles since rebuild (6 months of use)
New timing belt
New water pump
B-Shafts removed
ARP Head bolts @ 90lbs
Mitsu 3 layer headgasket
Allen key valve cover bolts
Sitting for 3 weeks inside garage
Checked compression 300 miles after rebuild: 150 accross.

Problems:

3 oil pan bolts stripped - says it still seals...?
Timing cover is a bit chewed up will get job done, but looks "ugly"

Questions:

He told me that the compression was 150 accross 3 cylinders, and 155 in one. Does this sound normal? Why isn't it right up near 164 like standard? Should I be worried? He said that 1000 miles is when everything actually "seats" - and if it wasn't bad at 300 miles - it won't get any worse after that...? What do you think?

Will the oil pan to block bolts be a big problem? He says 3 of them are stripped. He also told me that there are like 15 bolts that hold it on. Is this correct? He said that it sealed when he ran it with some Grey RTV - what do you think? He mentioned one of the bols being right under the timing belt - and maybe not that much metal around it - to tap or heli-coil a new thread in there. Is this a major problem?

Now, what can I do to make sure I'm not picking up a motor with bent valves, or any other major problems? Obviously I'll turn the crankshaft - make sure theres no extreme resistance or anything... Anything else I can do/turn/test/etc?

What else can I do while inspecting the motor? What are things to look for in a beat motor? Any other "normal" problems with used motors?

Thanks a ton! This is a large purchase for me - and quite a trip also. Is there anything at all I can to protect myself from picking up a junk motor? Any opinins/info would be really appreciated. I'll be picking the motor up this weekend.

 

[GRNDSM]

>10k miles since rebuild (6 months of use)

This is my problem with it. I would take an all original motor with up to 120k miles over a rebuild motor by an unknown machinist, because you never know why/how it was rebuild and what you have there.

But his other parts suggest that he knew what he was doing and for $600, it seems to be worth a gamble. Just recognize that you are taking a risk with $600 and 10 hours worth of driving…

>He told me that the compression was 150 accross 3 cylinders, and 155 in one.
>Does this sound normal?

Sounds fine.

>Why isn't it right up near 164 like standard?

On a factory spec, brand new motor, yes, but used motors usually go from 145psi to 175psi, and it is OK.

>Should I be worried?

Not on this account.

>Will the oil pan to block bolts be a big problem? He says 3 of them are stripped.

If you are worried, Helicoil them while you got the engine out of the car.

>He also told me that there are like 15 bolts that hold it on. Is this correct?

That is true.

>Is this a major problem?

If it hasn’t leaked in 10k miles, this probably isn’t a problem.

But that points a finger at whoever rebuilt it. If they were this sloppy about the small details, like the oil pan, what does it say about other things?

>Now, what can I do to make sure I'm not picking up a motor with bent valves,
>or any other major problems?

You would have to remove the valve cover, but then you can check if rocker arms are all in place.

>Obviously I'll turn the crankshaft - make sure
>theres no extreme resistance or anything... Anything else I can do/turn/test/etc?

The most important factor, do you know this person, or is he completely unknown? That would determine who much you car trust the stuff that he is telling you.

But then again, if this was a 10k motor build by a reputable shop it would be worth $800-$1000. So for $600 you are paying less because of this unknown factor. You just have to decide if a 10 hour drive is worth $200-$400 in savings

 

[4G63dsmpwr]

First off thanks for the reply... Alot of good points I didn't cover...

The guy was originally asking $850 - I've talked him down quite a bit, and it hasn't been easy haha!

He's told me that he guarentees it'll have 145+ compression. If I come pick up this weekend - he says he'll keep the cash for an additional week - until the car is started up. If the compression isn't what he said it was - he'll refund 100% of my money.

I know this coule all be a big crock of BS - but if I have his cell and home phone numbers, and home address - where the motor is, do you think I'll be alright?

I also just purchased a set of HKS cam a couple months ago. I mentioned this to him. He told me if I bring the cams/new cam seals he'll install them for me while I'm there - I don't want him to be able to say " Well maybe you screwed something up while installing the cams, etc "

However: This person is 100% completely unknown. I only have met him through the trader...

So the valve cover will be off. I will definately check if the rocker arms are in place... The should be sitting right on the spring, and the lifter - right? If any are out of place - does this mean theres a bent valve below?

Anything else I can check?