6bolt hunting at the junkyard

[MountainDew]

Well if you've read my other thread, I'm pretty sure my motor is toast. Since it's going to be 60 degrees tomorrow, I'm thinking about going and picking up a 6bolt at the junkyard. I know there are plenty out there. Basically I'm just asking, how should I determine which one would be the best one to grab?

I'm hoping to find one where I wouldn't need to rebuild much, if anything at all. But I know thats rare.. Obviously I know to take the valve cover off, inspect all that and to turn the crank. Obviously checking the timing belt is good as well.

For the most part I'll probably just pick up an N/T 6bolt and put turbo pistons in. Or 2g pistons, whichever ones were bigger. I would go forged, but I'm probably just going to get the car running and sell it. I'm hoping to get the car running for under $500. I know its a longshot, but it is definitely possible. Considering I can pick up the whole motor for $135.

Any other things to look for? I also thought about getting under and looking at the block for holes or anything. It's really too bad you can't compression test them!

Also a 2g head would work on a 6bolt block right? If I remember right, you just need to redrill the holes on the head? Or was it something else? I can't remember.

I've had some experiance. I pulled the head and rebuilt it myself over the summer. I haven't pulled the whole motor though. How hard is it? Is it just a matter of disconnecting everything and unbolting the motor mounts? I see a lot of people at the junkyards use seatbelts to pull their motors.

Sorry for not searching much, I'm just kind of in a time crunch. Any help or input is greatly appreciated.

 

[MountainDew]

Why dont you just rebuild the 7bolt. It will cost you the same if not less it will save a lot of jury rigging and the worst thing you might have to look for is a crank&rod if it mangeled them. If the piston rings are fine dont even hone the walls and put it all back togther. If the ballance shafts took a dump put a BSE in it and be done.

I just figure while the block is out of the car, might as well do the swap. I was going to do it over the summer but I didn't have the money. Now, I pretty much have the money just not much time. I've got another car to drive though.

I'd hate to rebuild the 7bolt and have it crankwalk or something. Plus, I don't know how destroyed the block is yet.

 

[19Eclipse90]

That block you pictured above doesn't look to be in the best of shape. And over the internet? Sounds shady. If I were to buy it (obviously because $75 isn't a bad price), I would still have it checked out at a reputable shop. It definitely looks like it needs a hone or at least the cylinder walls cleaned up.

I've been reading on this thread every now and again, and it boggles my mind that you want to use 'cheap' parts or half ass the work. I agree, bearings are fairly cheap; but that is a minute part of a full engine overhaul. I was also about to perform a complete build on a 6-bolt block, but when I got the prices laid out, the machine work necessary to do it right (because I most definitely lack the know-how), the labor costs, and basically ending with a brand new motor, I was looking at about $1800 for everything. And that was a completely stock rebuild. Not exactly something I have money for at the moment.

I've said it to you once, and I'll say it again: these cars are particular; more often than not, OEM is the way to go.

Stainbox12 - U.S. vs. Panama. Come on, you CANNOT compare prices of parts or labor between the two. So stop trying. That's great you can whip together a motor for $100; but here in the US, that is definitely not possible seeing as how the oil pump/front case itself is over $300. And that IS a dealership/OEM ONLY item. Necessary for all rebuilds? No. The smartest idea in all rebuilds? Yes.

If you can find a running motor, that would probably be your best bet. Even then I would do a complete 60K which will run you up a bit. Though in my eyes, once you start putting that kind of money into it, it's not worth selling because you won't get back what you put into it. If you are going to sell it, sell it as is and let it be someone else's headache.

 

[MountainDew]

That block you pictured above doesn't look to be in the best of shape. And over the internet? Sounds shady. If I were to buy it (obviously because $75 isn't a bad price), I would still have it checked out at a reputable shop. It definitely looks like it needs a hone or at least the cylinder walls cleaned up.

I've been reading on this thread every now and again, and it boggles my mind that you want to use 'cheap' parts or half ass the work. I agree, bearings are fairly cheap; but that is a minute part of a full engine overhaul. I was also about to perform a complete build on a 6-bolt block, but when I got the prices laid out, the machine work necessary to do it right (because I most definitely lack the know-how), the labor costs, and basically ending with a brand new motor, I was looking at about $1800 for everything. And that was a completely stock rebuild. Not exactly something I have money for at the moment.

I've said it to you once, and I'll say it again: these cars are particular; more often than not, OEM is the way to go.

Stainbox12 - U.S. vs. Panama. Come on, you CANNOT compare prices of parts or labor between the two. So stop trying. That's great you can whip together a motor for $100; but here in the US, that is definitely not possible seeing as how the oil pump/front case itself is over $300. And that IS a dealership/OEM ONLY item. Necessary for all rebuilds? No. The smartest idea in all rebuilds? Yes.

If you can find a running motor, that would probably be your best bet. Even then I would do a complete 60K which will run you up a bit. Though in my eyes, once you start putting that kind of money into it, it's not worth selling because you won't get back what you put into it. If you are going to sell it, sell it as is and let it be someone else's headache.

Once again though, All I'm getting is the block. I already have a fresh head that I rebuilt in July which I'll be re-using.

The block is a local deal. I'll probably have two of my friends come with who both built 11 second DSMs. They'd know better then I would. The only bad thing about that block is it has a spot weld where it bolts to the tranny. Its a strong weld just ugly, or thats what he told me. I'd probably have it cleaned up though.

I might try and work something out where I just pick up the block and get it checked out, then pay for it.

 

[tqmx1]

I'd hate to rebuild the 7bolt and have it crankwalk or something. Plus, I don't know how destroyed the block is yet.

Has it crank walked yet then why would it start NOW!! As you said in your first set of posts when the oil filter adaptor backed off you were trying to sell the car. If the rod did not come through the side it should live to fight another day.

 

[MountainDew]

Has it crank walked yet then why would it start NOW!! As you said in your first set of posts when the oil filter adaptor backed off you were trying to sell the car. If the rod did not come through the side it should live to fight another day.

I've honestly just had such terrible luck with the car I'd rather just rebuild it. That way I can put a new water pump in and stuff like that.

Would I be able to noticeably tell whats wrong if I take the oil pan off? Also can you change the bearings with the block still in the car? Honestly if I could do that, I'll probably just fix the car and sell it. Who knows if its a bearing though.

 

[tqmx1]

Well the only way to know is to open it up and LOOK!! About one hours work and you will know what you are playing with.

Did you have a change of heart are you going to keep the car or move it down the road?

 

[MountainDew]

Well the only way to know is to open it up and LOOK!! About one hours work and you will know what you are playing with.

Did you have a change of heart are you going to keep the car or move it down the road?

It's debatable. I really just want to get my bike and have a decent daily driver. Yet if I end up throwing a lot of money into it, I'll probably just keep it.

As far as opening it up, I don't really know what to look for, thats why I asked if it'd be obvious to see what exactly is wrong.

 

[tqmx1]

Like you hit your thumb with a hammer you will know it!!

 

[19Eclipse90]

I've honestly just had such terrible luck with the car I'd rather just rebuild it. That way I can put a new water pump in and stuff like that.

Would I be able to noticeably tell whats wrong if I take the oil pan off? Also can you change the bearings with the block still in the car? Honestly if I could do that, I'll probably just fix the car and sell it. Who knows if its a bearing though.

You can do bearings in the car and it depends on how they look whether or not you would need to get the crank cleaned up also.
Obviously you'll be able to tell if anything has hit or if a bearing has come out or if you have lots of metal shavings in the oil. But to thoroughly check it, you'll need to pull the crankshaft out and have a good look at the bearings. When you do that and if they are good, there is no reason to not do a full set of bearings since they are so cheap. If they are bad, try to figure out why and fix that.
It sounds like you know now what you need to do now. If you have other questions, search around, and post if necessary.

 

[absolute_DSM]

That block you pictured above doesn't look to be in the best of shape. And over the internet? Sounds shady. If I were to buy it (obviously because $75 isn't a bad price), I would still have it checked out at a reputable shop. It definitely looks like it needs a hone or at least the cylinder walls cleaned up.

I've been reading on this thread every now and again, and it boggles my mind that you want to use 'cheap' parts or half ass the work. I agree, bearings are fairly cheap; but that is a minute part of a full engine overhaul. I was also about to perform a complete build on a 6-bolt block, but when I got the prices laid out, the machine work necessary to do it right (because I most definitely lack the know-how), the labor costs, and basically ending with a brand new motor, I was looking at about $1800 for everything. And that was a completely stock rebuild. Not exactly something I have money for at the moment.

I've said it to you once, and I'll say it again: these cars are particular; more often than not, OEM is the way to go.

Stainbox12 - U.S. vs. Panama. Come on, you CANNOT compare prices of parts or labor between the two. So stop trying. That's great you can whip together a motor for $100; but here in the US, that is definitely not possible seeing as how the oil pump/front case itself is over $300. And that IS a dealership/OEM ONLY item. Necessary for all rebuilds? No. The smartest idea in all rebuilds? Yes.

If you can find a running motor, that would probably be your best bet. Even then I would do a complete 60K which will run you up a bit. Though in my eyes, once you start putting that kind of money into it, it's not worth selling because you won't get back what you put into it. If you are going to sell it, sell it as is and let it be someone else's headache.

Amen. Im glad Im not the only one that thinks this way.

 

[MountainDew]

Well after some serious thinking, if there isn't a whole lot of damage to my motor I'm just going to rebuild the 7bolt. But while I'm at it I'm installing urethane motor mounts, balance shaft eliminate kit, EGR delete, rebuild the master cylinder, thinking about putting in a new clutch, clean the entire engine bay, etc.

Any other work I should do while the motor is out? I'm thinking about replacing the water pump as well. Timing belt was done in 06' so I might just hold off on that but I'm going to check the tensioner for wear. Also is it pretty easy to pull the motor? Any tips?

 

[tqmx1]

Well after some serious thinking, if there isn't a whole lot of damage to my motor I'm just going to rebuild the 7bolt. But while I'm at it I'm installing urethane motor mounts, balance shaft eliminate kit, EGR delete, rebuild the master cylinder, thinking about putting in a new clutch, clean the entire engine bay, etc.

Any other work I should do while the motor is out? I'm thinking about replacing the water pump as well. Timing belt was done in 06' so I might just hold off on that but I'm going to check the tensioner for wear. Also is it pretty easy to pull the motor? Any tips?

Man if it's rubber or anything to do with timing REPLACE IT!! In the bigger scheme of things replaceing it is cheep insurance.