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6 bolt swap problems, have fuel, spark, and compression but wont start

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rnstphns

15+ Year Contributor
50
0
Jul 18, 2007
Casselberry, Florida
im fairly new with dsm's so i had a local mechanic do my 6 bolt swap according to http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/tech/1gina2g.pdf. he finished the install and started the car. then he realized he didnt tighten the exhaust cam. so shut it down and tightened that. then the crank pulley slid off because he forgot the retainer clip. it jumped teeth on the timing belt and it bent the intake valves so we had the head redone. now its back together and it wont start. i have a datalogger and its reading 5* advance timing. theres fuel, spark and compression it turns over but it just backfires through the exhaust and wont start. we used the 4-3-2-1 plug order on the head and 3-2-1-4 on the coil. the only thing we changed was cams but i dont think that could cause a problem. we cant figure it out. any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Glad to see you got it running

So let me get this straight, you switched the plug wires back to stock and the injector trigger wires back to stock?
Or the plug wires back to stock and switched the trigger wires like the magnus write up says to?

we switched the plug wires back to stock and the trigger wires according to the magnus write up.
 
okay so i thought this problem was resolved but i think its still going on. the car running and he finished everything up and i went to pick it up. it was pushed outside for me to pick it up and it started then sputtered and died. it seems to be flooding it and still will not start. any suggestions on what this could be?
 
EDIT: sorry, i saw that you did finally try it.

Before you blow off swapping plug wires. Try it! Mitsubishi changed the coil pack order once when it went 2g and then again in 97 it went back to teh 1g order i'm pretty sure. I know from doing stand alone installs that ignition channel A & B repectively, are often changed from what you think they should be. If you're getting a backfire and some popping here and there during cranking, i'd swap the wires around right away.

ON my very first stand alone install i learned this one fast. I was in a cold garage ( to an apt building) installing it with nothing but a coat, a butane soldering iron and a haltech manual and ECU pinout for the 2g car. After a couple hours of fiddling with it and it just popping and spitting when it wanted to, I put the battery on charge and called sean glazer at extreme motorsports. He had me swap the wires and that was that, he also told me that they changed it back and forth from 1g to 2g and then changed the 2g again in 97. It ran great for a base map in it and the timing not even zero'd in. That was 9+ years ago, and i've seen this problem plenty of times with people uptting in swaps, ECU's and digital ignition systems.
 
Check teh coolant temp sensor, a lot of times if they go bad they default to the coldest reading they can see (-40*F i am pretty sure) and that adds a LOT of fuel into the mix.. When mine went out ( the wires broke from engine bay heat and being moved when i was working on something else) IT defaulted to -40 and the AFR's were rich off teh scale at 9:12 idle adn richer.. i could rev it though.. will yours rev at all?
 
i got the problem fixed. it turned out when he was trying all of the different firing orders he burnt up the starter. i just decided to take it home and see what if i could finish it. i changed the starter and it fired right up. i drove it around then the timing belt came loose. :cry: thanks for the help guys.:talon:
 
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