6 Bolt in a 2G Won't Crank... HELP!

[GTM]

Thanks for all the help - here's some updated information.

I pulled the motor, seperated the block and head.
The oil pump is seized or jammed. it will not turn by hand and will barley move with a wrench. The pistons, rods, crank, bearings, etc have absolutly no damage. the head also looks very good, no damage to valves or anything. I'm going to clean everything up, replace the oil pump and head gasket, and try again. I'm going to check firing order and and other electrical things i can think of and try again.

let me know if you have any ideas on what i should do/clean/perform etc before i drop it back in for attempt 2. Thanks again guys!

Pedaling backwards for a moment, you primed the engine. how did you do this?
Was the "bang" an explosion like a backfire or a bang from metal hitting metal?
Did you check if the cam timing was correct?

I'm still not clear on why you pulled the engine or knew to pull the engine? It's not exactly the normal procedure based on my understanding of the problem as previously described. Did you check the cams for ease of rotation? You mentioned blowing a 200 amp fuse, I presume this is not part of the starter cable?

Are you saying the reason the engine would not turn is the seized oil pump? I have a hard time believing the pump seized if you had primed the system using an electric drill before you put the belt on. You might consider filling the combustion chamber with kerosene or diesel when the valves are closed to see if they are leaking. I also think the pump drive belt should be replaced if that is in fact the source of all the problems.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[95GSXBLUR]

I pulled the engine because I thought that If I saw no external damage, then it must have been internal. I'm not sure why the pump is hard to turn, but the only wan you can turn it is with a ratchet or a wrench. I was under the impression that you could turn it over by hand.

The bang, could possibly been a back fire into the intake, very possible. It didn't sound like metal on metal, it was loud though, and it did shake the car. The fuse blew because I tried turning it over again and it drew too much current from the starter and popped.

I'll be checking the cams shortly - I have to bring tools back and forth from work, which sucks. So I don't always have them available. I'll be posting.

 

[GTM]

I pulled the engine because I thought that If I saw no external damage, then it must have been internal. I'm not sure why the pump is hard to turn, but the only wan you can turn it is with a ratchet or a wrench. I was under the impression that you could turn it over by hand.

The bang, could possibly been a back fire into the intake, very possible. It didn't sound like metal on metal, it was loud though, and it did shake the car. The fuse blew because I tried turning it over again and it drew too much current from the starter and popped.

I'll be checking the cams shortly - I have to bring tools back and forth from work, which sucks. So I don't always have them available. I'll be posting.

Yes, you should be able to turn it with the balance shaft using 2 fingers. I've use a battery drill with socket adapter to spin the cog drive to prime the oil system. Had you tried to turn it by hand before? Was the pickup screen attached when you got the engine? Did you make the change to remove the balancer?

I'm wondering if the gears are incorrect or if the shaft is too long thus forcing the pump to press against the end cover. You can check some of this with modeling clay and a dry fit just to get impressions from the clay. Make sure the tooth count/diameter is correct. I'd pull the old pump cover off and put a straightedge across it while in place, don't use a gasket when holding it in place and then rotate the cog drive. Once you are comfortable with this then put the new pump and rotate with fingers. You can use some molly assembly lube mixed with engine oil when you are ready to make final assembly.

If you still have the hydraulic lash adjusters I would leave the cam followers out and prime the system with a battery drill. Oil wil start to ooze at first from the adjusters, wait a few seconds and then another short burst with the drill until oil is coming from all adjusters. Throw rags over them and again short bursts with the drill, if you fail to do this oil will squirt some 6' and make a general mess. With the pistons 1/2 up you can now install the cam followers and again used the drill which will pressure oil the cams and every other motive part. Rotate the cams by hand or ratched, this will set the adjusters at the proper height. You will now set #4 cylr cams on the rock (exhaust is almost closed and intake is just opening). Rotate the crank by hand the 90 degrees to TDC, the engine is now timed and the belt and tensioner installed. Again rotate the engine by hand and check your work, you might be off by a thooth after the belt stretches but you shouldn't foul valves. I consider this priming a must though you may find someone who says not needed. It's 10-30 minutes out of your life including the cam followers but there is no way they can fall out as you will find others have had this problem on first start.

....................

You can buy a 40 piece socket and ratchet set on sale for under $6, you may need to add a couple of extra sockets and adapters for cams and crank. If you can't turn the engine with a 3/8" ratchet then something may be wrong. These are throwaway tools but will make life better, I keep several of these sets around just as you would pencils. I use to give them to my new boat customers when I was in that business. Another good source for inexpensive tools is Harborfreight.com who have a good mail order system with free shipping if over $50. All it takes is forgetting one tool to ruin your day.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[95GSXBLUR]

Thanks again - I've checked it out.. the cams rotate fine... by hand. no tools nothing.. they all seem fine! it's the strangest thing.

I did pull out the balance shafts and install an eliminator kit - with OEM Mitsu parts. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it, but I'm working on it as often as I can.

I'll grab a couple of those tool sets - good idea. I like the pencil analogy as well... I never thought of it like that. I'm used to buying the hardcore tools - Snap-On, Mac, Matco, etc. I guess I never thought of them as disposable, but they honestly are! sweet!

Back on track - the belt is Kevlar, it shouldn't stretch @ all. But I'm going to order some new parts and install all those. It'll probably be a little bit before I get them all here and get the motor back together. I'll prime it like you said with the drill and I'll let you know the outcome.

Thanks again for your time and posts. they've been very helpful. I'll keep you updated either reviving this thread or PMs. Thanks!

 

[95GSXBLUR]

Well if any one was interested - I figured out the problem. The oil pump sprocket that connects to the timing belt got cracked some how and dug itself into the gears allowing it not to turn. How? I have no idea. I replaced the front cover assembly and it fired right up!

It ran for about 150 miles! My TO4B Vtrim was brand new and now for some reason is totally shot. it leaks oil on both sides, compressor and turbine, and when spinning down after shut off it pings because the blades wobble and hit the compressor housing - thanks Bullseye! I have a warranty so I'm going to send it back and get another one. I know it had oil, I primed it and only ran 9-10psi those 150 miles with about 5 full throttle runs to about 6000 rpms in third. I didn't beat on it or push it hard.

Now it gets even better. I have the same symptoms that happened when my oil pumped siezed. the motor doesn't want to turn over and I'm blowing 200amp fuses back @ the battery when I try to crank it. there is absolutly NO WAY the oil pump could be doing this again. The oil is clean. Has been changed twice. I've taken good car of it, haven't beat on it, and only drove it for 150mi. I just had it towed back to my house last saturday...

If anyone is in the area or is willing to drive and help me out, I'm so sick of this car. Its supposed to be a monster, but I've had nothing but bad luck. I'm in pretty far over my head and I have little if any cash for major repairs. If I can't figure out whats wrong with it or no one can help me find out. I'm parting out my $15,000+ I have invested into it.

Any ideas of where to start?