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5th gear shifter moves when on + off throttle

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91Bomb

15+ Year Contributor
908
7
Jul 15, 2003
US, New Jersey
I have what appears to be the 5th gear loose nut problem since shifter moves 1/4 to 1/2 inch when getting on or off throttle (doesn't do it in any other gear).

Can someone who's opened their tranny and tightened that nut successfully without having it loosen again please tell me exacly what to do. I'm thinking about fixing this problem in my driveway and have no experience with this. Thanks
 
It is very easy just follow the steps

1. drain fluid
2. remove end cover bolts
3. pry end cover off gently
4. find appropriate size socket and beaker bar
5. use a penny in between the 2 gears to keep them from spinning
6. tighten the nut till the old crush lock spot on the nut matches the grove on the shaft
7. use a chisel and hammer and reform the crush nut into the groove of the shaft
8. spin gears backwards to remove penny and check for debris from penny that may get stuck on the gears
9. use RTV on cover and reinstall (Make sure that the wave spring is sitting on the guide in the cover)
10. fill with gear lube

Take your time and do not rush the job. When you reform the crush spot deform it a lot so it will not back off again. You will understand more as you do the job.
 
I've never messed around with M/T's before. How do you refill with ?oil? ?fluid? -- how do you know when it's full, what type of fluid is recomended on turbo dsm's and where can I buy it?

Any other tips on tightening these nuts to keep shifter from moving around in 5th gear is appeciated :)
 


Thanks, that pretty much explains it except I'm not sure what to do and why in the following:

"Now that they are tight, you can use a flathead screw driver or a chisel and hammer to pound some dimples into the nut (in the slots on the shaft) to prevent the nut from coming loose again. Two dimples for the top nut, one for the bottom."

Can someone explain that a little better so I don't get in there and start hammering things to pieces :D
 
Thanks, that pretty much explains it except I'm not sure what to do and why in the following:

"Now that they are tight, you can use a flathead screw driver or a chisel and hammer to pound some dimples into the nut (in the slots on the shaft) to prevent the nut from coming loose again. Two dimples for the top nut, one for the bottom."

Can someone explain that a little better so I don't get in there and start hammering things to pieces :D

Here you go. Not a dsm trans, but the same kind of nut.
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Ok that pic makes sense, thanks.

How about that wave spring? I'm a litle worried about not getting that back on right.

Also, do they make a gasket I can buy instead of making my own rtv gasket?
 
How about that wave spring? I'm a litle worried about not getting that back on right.


Can anyone comment on the wave spring??


How many qts of transmission fluid (or is it gear oil?) should I buy to put back in and is Redline one of the recomended fluids? What others will do if I can't find that locally (other than mitsu) and do you add anything like friction modifiers to these?

Do I need anything special to refill or will any small funnel do the job?

Thanks!
 
NEED HELP from serious transmission guys only!!


The synchronizer keys popped out along with the outer spring that sits behind that brass gear thing. So I used a miniature screw driver to hold down inner spring in order to get keys reset in there but the inner spring must have rotated because only 2 of the keys are being held in by that inner spring now. Thinking there wasn't anything I could do to change that I installed the outer spring correctly and put that brass gear thing in. So 1 key only has the outer ring supporting it while the other 2 keys are in good with both inner + outer springs holding them in place.

My qestion is does anyone who's familiar with exactly how + what those keys do think this is going to cause a problem? I haven't run the car yet but did go through all the gears + reverse with car turned off and everything seems fine.
 
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