50 trim needs

[white90gsx]

ok I hope this post won't get me in trouble but what mods would I need to run a 50 trim to its full potencail on my stock motor on my 2g. Instead of dsm link I think I'm gonna go with a key driver its a little cheaper...sorry about lack of search I'm on my pda and don't have that option....thanks

 

[zatomz]

I'm hearing rumors that this turbo won't fit on a 1g because of the watsegate and hood clearance.....but they were also a t3/t4 not this mutsu hybrid...would that make a difference. You should have a shop port out your manifold, dont worry about your head yet unless your ready to do those arp's and a timing belt.

 

[white90gsx]

I'm hearing rumors that this turbo won't fit on a 1g because of the watsegate and hood clearance.....but they were also a t3/t4 not this mutsu hybrid...would that make a difference. You should have a shop port out your manifold, dont worry about your head yet unless your ready to do those arp's and a timing belt.

How do I determine the size of the porting?

 

[turbosax2]

How do I determine the size of the porting?

You would put on a 7cm^2 turbo gasket and gasket match the exhaust manifold and turbo by porting them.

 

[white90gsx]

Do I have to buy them at a special place.

 

[turbosax2]

Do I have to buy them at a special place.

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DSM Performance Parts Turbo Eclipse Talon - Mitsubishi DSM 7cm Turbo Gasket
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Slowboy Racing, Inc. :: DSM :: Do It Yourself Parts :: Gaskets :: 7cm Stainless Steel Gasket

 

[white90gsx]

So the oem gasket is to small?

 

[turbosax2]

The oem gasket is meant to fit an unported stock exhaust manifold with an unported stock t25. If you're going to port your turbo and port your exhaust manifold, then yes, the oem gasket is too small.

 

[white90gsx]

Ok...Got you thanks...

 

[zatomz]

Looks like you'll be posting about a 16g now

 

[white90gsx]

Haha..Nah a 16g is a little simpler...Thanks for all the help guys im going to wait to buy a 50 trim until next winter when I build up my motor......

 

[gsxtasy]

I have a SBR stainless tubular and it hasn't cracked on me yet, but if you plan on daily driving your car i would just get a FP race mani. I have mine wrapped and it helped an amazing amount on underhood temps. I can now actually touch the wrapped manifold for a second, its warm but not skin blistering hot.

On a side note, PM me if your interested in a ported 2g mani, and o2.

 

[arash15]

You have to remove the head in order to install ARP headstuds. Some will come here and say that you can swap single ARP's at a time and be okay, but that is an unnecessary risk.

Not True, swapping one at a time following the factory head torque pattern will only yield positve results. RRE has done this for years and I've done it on numerous blocks, never had an issue. If you dont feel you are competant to do it yourself, send it to a shop, fairly easy process if you know how to use a torque wrench and follow the pictorial in the manual.

 

[white90gsx]

Not True, swapping one at a time following the factory head torque pattern will only yield positve results. RRE has done this for years and I've done it on numerous blocks, never had an issue. If you dont feel you are competant to do it yourself, send it to a shop, fairly easy process if you know how to use a torque wrench and follow the pictorial in the manual.

Do I have to remove the head?

 

[thewraith]

No, but you do have to remove the valve cover.

 

[white90gsx]

No, but you do have to remove the valve cover.

Only the valve cover?...If so I think im going to do that anyways..When I put the 16g on and the exhaust on im taking it to a mechanic for the timing belt and I was thinking about changing the head gasket as well.

 

[arash15]

Do I have to remove the head?

No, the head isnt removed. Following the torque pattern of the head, you just remove one bolt and replace it with the arp stud, then torque to 80 ft. lbs with moly lube. and you do it for all ten. I would review the factory manual to familarize yourself with the head bolt removal procedure. It really isn't difficult, even for your first time. Just take your time.

 

[white90gsx]

No, the head isnt removed. Following the torque pattern of the head, you just remove one bolt and replace it with the arp stud, then torque to 80 ft. lbs with moly lube. and you do it for all ten. I would review the factory manual to familarize yourself with the head bolt removal procedure. It really isn't difficult, even for your first time. Just take your time.

With a 140k should I do the head gasket?

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Not True, swapping one at a time following the factory head torque pattern will only yield positve results. RRE has done this for years and I've done it on numerous blocks, never had an issue. If you dont feel you are competant to do it yourself, send it to a shop, fairly easy process if you know how to use a torque wrench and follow the pictorial in the manual.

I agree. You most definitely can swap ARP's one at a time, but the reason why I posted that comment was that if other posters are reading this, I don't want them to go out and think it's absolutely OK just because someone on a forum said so. Knowledge and tactfulness will allow you to do a swap like this (such as RRE), but for the newbie engine tuner, it may not be a risk that someone might want to take. Also, what about the 'what ifs'. What if the user doesn't tap the threads and has crap stuck in the threads, and therefore the supposed 80 ft/lb isn't really 80 ft/lb and is really 60 ft/lb or what if a user doesn't use ARP moly lube and only tightens to 85 ft/lb like you're supposed to do with moly lube, instead of 110 ft/lb on heavy oil as perscribed by ARP. What if someone thinks they can do it, can't use a torque wrench and destroys a perfectly good headgasket and potentially the head/short block because they overheat and warp it?

That's all I'm sayin

 

[white90gsx]

I agree. You most definitely can swap ARP's one at a time, but the reason why I posted that comment was that if other posters are reading this, I don't want them to go out and think it's absolutely OK just because someone on a forum said so. Knowledge and tactfulness will allow you to do a swap like this (such as RRE), but for the newbie engine tuner, it may not be a risk that someone might want to take. Also, what about the 'what ifs'. What if the user doesn't tap the threads and has crap stuck in the threads, and therefore the supposed 80 ft/lb isn't really 80 ft/lb and is really 60 ft/lb or what if a user doesn't use ARP moly lube and only tightens to 85 ft/lb like you're supposed to do with moly lube, instead of 110 ft/lb on heavy oil as perscribed by ARP. What if someone thinks they can do it, can't use a torque wrench and destroys a perfectly good headgasket and potentially the head/short block because they overheat and warp it?

That's all I'm sayin

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Thats a really good point. I was talking to my brother and he thinks its a good idea not even attempt it right now due to the fact I don't want to break the factory seal..SO im just going to stick with the 16g and max that out so I can concentrate on replacing everything else on the car...By the way could I buy a 255 pump and 660s and control all of that with an afc and a fpr because I don't want to have to buy stuff twice but I do realize that I will have to buy larger injectors later on next year but thats ok..

 

[blcknspo0ln]

\

Thats a really good point. I was talking to my brother and he thinks its a good idea not even attempt it right now due to the fact I don't want to break the factory seal..SO im just going to stick with the 16g and max that out so I can concentrate on replacing everything else on the car...By the way could I buy a 255 pump and 660s and control all of that with an afc and a fpr because I don't want to have to buy stuff twice but I do realize that I will have to buy larger injectors later on next year but thats ok..

Damn I wish all DSMers thought like you did. Yes, 255/660/SAFC/AFPR are what you need in terms of fuel mods and tuning mods. You also should look into a wideband o2 sensor to ensure your tune is spot-on.

 

[white90gsx]

Yes im going to go with a wideband and a pocket logger. Do you know were I can get a logger?

 

[mygsx2120]

Do you know were I can get a logger?

There is one for sale in the classifieds right now for $65. Seems like a good deal. Also, ebay is a good place to look for stuff like that.

 

[white90gsx]

I'm going to check that now..

 

[white90gsx]

mygsx2120 just pointed out something..I already have a pda could I get the software and the cable and install it to that? If so can I get a site to install and a place to buy the cable I'd be set.

 

[arash15]

No, the head isnt removed. Following the torque pattern of the head, you just remove one bolt and replace it with the arp stud, then torque to 80 ft. lbs with moly lube. and you do it for all ten. I would review the factory manual to familarize yourself with the head bolt removal procedure. It really isn't difficult, even for your first time. Just take your time.

Im going to emphasize the key points to success in this install in BOLD
Everybody has to start somewhere, and if you can't take risks, you can be like the other cool guys who like to pay for labor done on thier cars Good luck with whatever you decide on. You can even run the studs thru the block a few times before applying moly lube (bottom tapping the block), clean out the debris, blow it out with presurized air, then apply the moly lube and torque away!