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4g63t rebuid in Italy

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Exxxel

15+ Year Contributor
99
3
Mar 18, 2006
Italy, Europe
Hi,

I have just purchased a 4g63t from a friend, this engine is (wrecked?):

-Cranckshaft, main bearings & one connecting rod are compromised.

Due to a complete rebuild, how parts I need to buy?

-New 7 bolt crankshaft
-New set of pistons
-New connecting rods
then?
I need to buy oversizes?

Thanks a lot for answers!!

Sorry 4 my english!!!WTF

LeoDOHC
 
It says you drive a N/T and you want to rebuild the 4g63t. Is the 4g63t for your car? Or are you rebuilding it for your friend.
 
The oversized pistons depend on the shape of the block. Have a machinist look at the condition of the block to tell you if it need to be bored.
 
I don't know if you can do this, but when I was living in Europe I had friends ship me parts from the US to avoid paying VAT. That would be your best bet. You wouldn't believe how much cheaper these parts are in the US!
 
It says you drive a N/T and you want to rebuild the 4g63t. Is the 4g63t for your car? Or are you rebuilding it for your friend.

I have a 95 2g Eclipse with a 4g63 Non turbo 7 bolt (10:1) engine. in europe N/A come with this...
I want to rebuild a 4g63t for my car, but i don't know which parts I need to restore it.
Naturally I think i need ECU from a GST and related wiring...

Do anyone knows the part list? Oil pump, timing belt kit, rods, pistons exc exc.. :rolleyes:

Thanks!
 
The ECU might be the same.. I would pull the ECU and look the number up that is on it and see if it supports a turbo application. Everything is the same between the two engines besides the pistons. If you wanna do it right you need to get all new OEM timing components ie. tensioner, idler pulley, ect, If you want to build it up a little then rods/pistons of your choice. You'll need crank bearings and i would do a balance shaft removal. ARP headstuds and preferably everything else but it is not nessesary. OEM bolts for everything else would be fine. Water pump and oil pump. Its alot of work but in the end the engine will look brand new and pretty much be..

The mechanic will decide on what size piston you will need. Its bad when you buy .020 pistons and the machinist had to go to .030...
 
The ECU might be the same.. I would pull the ECU and look the number up that is on it and see if it supports a turbo application. Everything is the same between the two engines besides the pistons. If you wanna do it right you need to get all new OEM timing components ie. tensioner, idler pulley, ect, If you want to build it up a little then rods/pistons of your choice. You'll need crank bearings and i would do a balance shaft removal. ARP headstuds and preferably everything else but it is not nessesary. OEM bolts for everything else would be fine. Water pump and oil pump. Its alot of work but in the end the engine will look brand new and pretty much be..

The mechanic will decide on what size piston you will need. Its bad when you buy .020 pistons and the machinist had to go to .030...



I think my ECU does not support turbo application/timing...
I have to change the entire crank...it has a broken bearing...
I want to buy components by myself, in italy mechanics are thiefs... Crankshaft in italy stay about 900€...a lot of money...I think USA prices are better...

Before I buy components in USA, i need to machine the block to look up the sizes? ok...is not a problem...
I am starting from a OEM 4g63T fully assembled...
Online
 
This is my 4g63...I think it's a JDM RVR's....

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Please, anyone have idea if I can put a 97-99 Crankshaft with 3pcs thrust bearing into a 95-96 block with 1pcs thrust bearing?

I need to junk my crankshaft and buy a new one, but i have some problems in choosing it...

Block - Seems to be a 95-96 (methods to identify?)
Head - Seems to be a 97-99 because of CAS in the end of intake cam

I have unassebled all the engine, and I have 1pcs thrust... and all is in STD bore.

Block is in good shape, not necessary to machine..

THANKS!!! :cool::D

Here's some pics:

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what is the black color on the head? burned oil?
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But 4 bearings? it's possible to put the 97 bearings into 95 block?

Im sure that my engine uses the old central bearing, but my question is, can I swap to the late thrust 3pcs bearing instead?

Now tomorrow I post the VIN # if U can help me!

thanks guys!
 
Oil squirters are really necessary? I only have oil jets....searching in forums, i see a lot of people who runs no squirters...

My goal is 350-370hp... with a STD bore wiseco pistons & eagle rods...I need them?

Thanks!
 
Oil squirters are really necessary? I only have oil jets....searching in forums, i see a lot of people who runs no squirters...

My goal is 350-370hp... with a STD bore wiseco pistons & eagle rods...I need them?

Thanks!

its your preferance is you want to keep the oil squiters. most people get rid of them so that there is one less thing to go wrong. same thing with the balance shafts.
 
Ok, I simply leave in place the stock oil jets (no 1g squirters)...

I was tempted to machine block to get the 1g/evo squirters...but if I have oil jets i leave them on...

And.....To clean up the block (outside, oil channels, water channels) what can I use? Diesel fuel? specific cleaners? WD-40? XD

Thanks guys!!!! :thumb:
 
My machine shop do a cranckshaft rebore for 264€ (375$)....It's a normal fee?

How much do you pay for this type of job? And for a cylinder rebore? I think my machinist it's a thief...
 
Hi there.

I also had 2g n/t with 6g63 and I have done the exact same turbo swap (only with a 6-bolt) you are planning so I have some experience on that.

You might find this thread helpful for your project. If you have any further questions just send me a PM - I will be glad to help.

Also I have another 7-bolt engine and I am thinking whether I should sell the motor or do another N/T to Turbo swap so by the time you fix yours I might have fresh memories on the swap :)
 
Hi,

I've just measured the cylinder bores, here's the conditions:

Cylinder 1 (Pulleys side)
180°
Top - 85,05
Center - 85,04
Bottom - 85,03
90°
T - 85,06
C - 85,08
B - 85,07

Cylinder 2
180°
T - 85,05
C - 85,05
B - 85,05
90°
T - 85,07
C - 85,06
B - 85,06

Cylinder 3
180°
T - 85,05
C - 85,05
B - 85,05
90°
T - 85,07
C - 85,08
B - 85,07

Cylinder 4 (Flywheel side)
180°
T - 85,06
C - 85,05
B - 85,05
90°
T - 85,08
C - 85,07
B - 85,07

I think it's time to overbore no? :p

I want to buy new Forged wiseco pistons... which is the bore I have to machine for 85.50 pistons (1st oversize)?
I need to have pistons before? or it's possible to machine without them and buy next time?
 
Just to ask but what turbo are you planning on using? Your goal is under 400whp. I have been making that on a OEM 6 bolt for over a year with no issues. IMO if not going to make 500+whp you dont need to go with a forged motor. Saves money and OEM builds at reasonable power usually are more reliable.

Buf if you are thinking of 500hp one day I say keep going in the path you are. I mean I now wish I went forged since I plan on making way more power now than I originally intended.
 
I want to buy new Forged wiseco pistons... which is the bore I have to machine for 85.50 pistons (1st oversize)?
I need to have pistons before? or it's possible to machine without them and buy next time?

you need to buy the pistons first. unless your machinist really trusts wiseco on their sizes (which i hope not) they should measure the pistons and bore the block accordingly. 85.5 should be stock bore 86 should be the size you need. also you asked what you should get to rebuild the engine. the more you replace the less problems you will have down the road (water pump, timing pulleys, belts, ETC. ETC. what you spend on the rebuild is really dependent on your budget. also try not to go cheep on the gaskets, you will have less problems. if you ask nicely someone here might pick up a full set of Felpro for about $135 US plus shipping (i just bought a head set $97 and conversion set $35 from autozone).
 
Just to ask but what turbo are you planning on using? Your goal is under 400whp. I have been making that on a OEM 6 bolt for over a year with no issues. IMO if not going to make 500+whp you dont need to go with a forged motor. Saves money and OEM builds at reasonable power usually are more reliable.

Buf if you are thinking of 500hp one day I say keep going in the path you are. I mean I now wish I went forged since I plan on making way more power now than I originally intended.

My, goal is less than 400hp, but with a durable motor....Can I go with stock (NPR) oversize 85.50 and stock Rods? Can I use forged rods with PressToFit piston pins?
I've read forged is better than stock, and I choosed this path for that reason...

Turbo will be a TD05H-16G.....:|

Thanks!!!!!
 
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