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4G63T Build Questions

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Kod

10+ Year Contributor
289
1
Mar 29, 2011
Kingston, Pennsylvania
What my plan is to do is as follows.

Convert from automatic to manual because I cannot afford the mods I want + a performance auto transmission.

Going to go with a Stage 2 Port on the heads since that should easily handle the mods I plan to put on it.

Engine Mods: High Lifters (I have no idea what brand to go with for this, any help is appreciated), Engine is already bored 30 over, Brian Crower Cams, Valve Train Package (Not sure on the brand to go with), Performance Exhaust Manifold (Again not sure on brand to go with it), Small 16G Turbo

Transmission: Light Weight Flywheel, Stage 1 Clutch

I'm just trying to do what I can without dumping a whole ton of money.

Say for a budget around $2,000.

After the engine is up to the par I want, going to go with a megan suspension system.

Any suggestions on brand parts to go with and any other information would be appreciated thanks.
 
Our stock automatic transmissions have been proven to 10's for short periods and 11's all day long. Just saying, you don't need a performance tranny for what you want to do.
 
Our stock automatic transmissions have been proven to 10's for short periods and 11's all day long. Just saying, you don't need a performance tranny for what you want to do.

With the money you are saving from a 5spd swap you can go with an evo3 16g or even pick up an old school garrett hybrid and get yourself in the 400hp region.

Go with 3g revised OEM lifters and if you have the money supertech valvetrain. Otherwise i think bc does make a valvetrain setup for their cams.

I wouldnt go much furtheron that bore either. And please tell me its bored to the pistons already. I see people always boring a block .20 over for .20 pistons but the bore is never exact.

Not to mention every engine builder/piston manufacturer has different piston to wall clearance recommendations/prefferences. Another big factor is what the motor will be used for and the heat that's going to be generated.
 
You could probably get away with a rebuild, shift kit, and higher stall converter. This will actually help you with your consistency due to the elimination of missed shifts etc. Add a manual shift box and you will have a pretty good setup for what you wanna do.
 
my goal is 400 - 650 hp range, i know it wont be too easy, because you upgrade one part then you need to do the same with some others in order to support it
 
I know of 2 cars running consistent 10's on auto trannys that have had nothing more than the line pressure increase mod done to them, and they are holding fine last i heard.
 
Auto's have gone 8's. The small 16G will not get you to the goal you are looking for. The big will, but it is going to be very hard to get there and require a lot of mods. You should step up to a 50 trim, HX-35, 30 series garrett, ect.. all these will make the power you are after. The holset HX-35 might be your best bet if your on a budget. The springs you get are kinda dependant on your cams. Keep in mind that most 272's do not require a spring upgrade, and you can bring the stock head well into the tens. As for the lifters, any 3G lifter will work. Mitsu, Johnson, ITM ect.....they all work.
 
my goal is 400 - 650 hp range, i know it wont be too easy, because you upgrade one part then you need to do the same with some others in order to support it

I'm guessing you have a forged piston and race rods combo in mind for that much power?
 
When I have the heads put at 2 stage the entire motor is receiving a over haul at the exact same time, FMIC, Evo III Big 16 etc, just looking for good names to go with for parts and that wont completely kill me on cost, I want manual only because the automatic transmission go so easily and don't have the the money for this work + the rebuild of a transmission, which I know if I do that + throw a better intercooler on the transmission and throw the upgraded O/D end clutch on it less worries but just don't have it.
 
When I have the heads put at 2 stage the entire motor is receiving a over haul at the exact same time, FMIC, Evo III Big 16 etc, just looking for good names to go with for parts and that wont completely kill me on cost, I want manual only because the automatic transmission go so easily and don't have the the money for this work + the rebuild of a transmission, which I know if I do that + throw a better intercooler on the transmission and throw the upgraded O/D end clutch on it less worries but just don't have it.

Why do you keep on saying that?

It's pretty much known now that the auto trans. in our car are pretty damn good. Lot's of the drag folks are switching from M/T to A/T because of that. You also get to keep boost in between shifts! ;)
 
When I have the heads put at 2 stage the entire motor is receiving a over haul at the exact same time, FMIC, Evo III Big 16 etc, just looking for good names to go with for parts and that wont completely kill me on cost, I want manual only because the automatic transmission go so easily and don't have the the money for this work + the rebuild of a transmission, which I know if I do that + throw a better intercooler on the transmission and throw the upgraded O/D end clutch on it less worries but just don't have it.

Who/where told you that the auto trannys go out so easy? Tranny's have coolers, not intercoolers.

Seems like you did a BIT of research. But still not enough. Your goal hp gap is kinda.... large? :hmm:

Since your concern is money, I would suggest reading a bit more. That is free. I will also suggest this:

Maintenence - any & all (ie gaskets, hoses, bolts, & rust)
Holset turbo (at least a 20g)
FMIC
1000cc injectors (at the least)
DsmLink
Wideband
IPT shift kit & IPT End Clutches (for the auto)
Boost controller
1g bov w/ leak stop kit

Just drive the car til the auto breaks. Then worry about tranny upgrades/swap. There will always be something you can change/upgrade. As well as something you can learn. Read up champ.
 
Well thanks for clarifying that on the auto transmission, which I do prefer the auto because of not loosing boost when shifting, I just never had luck finding auto trannys for the gs-t :( thanks though, least I can start sorting things out.
 
i want to get a gsx and rebuild it and all im going to say is you should do it right and take your time, im still asking questions so i can know everything i need to know before going into this, good luck to you though
 
Well looks I will be sticking with the auto transmission.

Probably just going to buy the IPT rebuild kit and high stall torque converter then start getting into the engine upgrading.

Part wise that I know I will most likely go with is:
Brian Crower Cams
3g OEM Revised Lifters

For now that's all I know for sure.

If I can save up the money I may go through slowboy for my top end work.

Any other helpful suggestions would be appreciated.
 
spend the extra money and get some better cams... brian cower cams are ok, but you can get more for your money with a set of comp cams, or hks, crower (not brian crower), etc... Some sites that sell BC cams don't really recommend them. Just my two cents on this, maybe someone else has some input on the BC cams too.
 
At $32 each OEM 3G lifter, there goes 1/4 of your funds.
TopLine has a nice set for $100.
Evo 8 springs and retainers at $70ish.
S16g won't even take you past 350whp.
Since you'll be staying auto, no need for clutch = more money in pocket.
There are better solutions than getting BC cams.

Have you taken into consideration all the maintenance stuff??
I thought I had everything to start my build.
When the motor was pulled out, I found out I needed new heater and radiator hoses.
Parts and expedited delivery = $50 just on hoses.
What about your pistons and rods?
 
if you want to save on cash while still buying good parts here are some idea's
VRspeed for your FMIC
Delta 272 cams
megan racing exhaust
you really dont need to do any valve train work ... Now im not positive on this but i think most 2g come with 3g lifters but i think its the later models
but while building your rotating assembly dont be afraid to spend some money for example wiesco pistons and eagle rods and arp main caps and acl tri metal bearings .
 
I live in the Wilkes Barre area. Does your car drive or is it already disassembled?

If it's driving don't worry about rebuilding anything until it breaks.

There is a company discussed on here it isn't bc I almost want to say it's dc cams or something..I'll remember as I'm laying in bed in 5 minutes when I'm just about to fall asleep. However the price is great and people who use them have had good results.

Also in our area is Rob 1993EclipseGS who is helpful with DSM related questions and even parts.

I live in the Wilkes Barre area. Does your car drive or is it already disassembled?

If it's driving don't worry about rebuilding anything until it breaks.

There is a company discussed on here it isn't bc I almost want to say it's dc cams or something..I'll remember as I'm laying in bed in 5 minutes when I'm just about to fall asleep. However the price is great and people who use them have had good results.

Also in our area is Rob 1993EclipseGS who is helpful with DSM related questions and even parts.
 
why dont you just see how long that stock auto will last and how the setup performs ? any big turbo car will like auto more then a 5 speed, if your worried about money a 450hp dsm will destroy your pockets, its doing that to my roomate as we speak. LOL :)
 
Thanks for the replies.

One thing I am doing when the motor gets pulled out is changing all my vacuum hoses, radiator, and etc.. so hopefully create a little less stressful future.

Car is still running, in case no one saw my profile, its a 4G63T bored 30 over which also only has now maybe 6500 mile on it at the most.

Which I know when I go to put better pistons in I have to get them bored 30 as well.

From what I seen the stock auto tranny can only handle up to 325 hp at the absolute max. Maybe I misread I don't know.
 
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