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420A 420a turbo no boost at all

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Bebo____pr25

Probationary Member
14
0
Dec 5, 2022
Kissimmee, Florida
Hello guys can someone help me out turboing my 420a Eclipse I’m new to this. l put the FMU in the Eclipse but I remove the stock FPR and I put a aftermarket one and also I put a 12:1 FMU in the inlet I put the FPR hose and the return line I put it on the outlet and I use a vacuum block in the vacuum block I put the BOV, boost gauge and FPR when I test drive the car the car try to make boost but it shows like 1 or 2 psi then it goes to 0 an stays in 0 I'm 99% that everything is tide do.

I would appreciate if someone can help me thanks

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Read the thread below. Specifically post number #12 and make sure you have the hoses routed correctly.

Sounds like your BOV might be opening under boost and allowing it to bleed off possibly.

If you don’t have a reliable wideband I’d recommend getting one before doing anything else.



-Daniel
 
Read the thread below. Specifically post number #12 and make sure you have the hoses routed correctly.

Sounds like your BOV might be opening under boost and allowing it to bleed off possibly.

If you don’t have a reliable wideband I’d recommend getting one before doing anything else.



-Daniel
yes I have a wideband but should the vacuum block do the routing more easily? And how do i know if the bov is bad?
 
Do a proper BLT. See if the BOV blows open prematurely or not.

I personally don’t like vacuum blocks. I think they are bulky and another area for vacuum leaks. I also am not a fan of having everything tied together like that.

I like the BOV to have a dedicated source as well a dedicated source to the FMU and FPR.

Can’t tell in your picture either if the gate goes directly to the compressor housing or not but that’s what I would do if you haven’t already.


-Daniel
 
I'm not familiar with a 420 fuel setup. Why is there an FMU and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator?

Do a proper BLT. See if the BOV blows open prematurely or not.

I personally don’t like vacuum blocks. I think they are bulky and another area for vacuum leaks. I also am not a fan of having everything tied together like that.

I like the BOV to have a dedicated source as well a dedicated source to the FMU and FPR.

Can’t tell in your picture either if the gate goes directly to the compressor housing or not but that’s what I would do if you haven’t already.


-Daniel

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My suggestion would be to BLT and get dedicated vacuum sources hooked up.

Ditch the blue silicone hose as they will suck shut on themselves when warm too.

Make sure you have the FMU hooked up properly.

Make sure the BOV isn’t opening under light boost.

If you don’t know what spring is even in the wastegate that’s a big red flag to me.

Need to put a 90 degree oil line on the oil feed too. Looks like the hood hits it and has put a kink in it.

The FMU serves a purpose and I mean they are only $100. You do get what you pay for. If setup properly at low boost they can work “alright”. Too much boost or someone beating on it constantly and you better get used to rebuilding motors.

Good luck, Daniel
 
My suggestion would be to BLT and get dedicated vacuum sources hooked up.

Ditch the blue silicone hose as they will suck shut on themselves when warm too.

Make sure you have the FMU hooked up properly.

Make sure the BOV isn’t opening under light boost.

If you don’t know what spring is even in the wastegate that’s a big red flag to me.

Need to put a 90 degree oil line on the oil feed too. Looks like the hood hits it and has put a kink in it.

The FMU serves a purpose and I mean they are only $100. You do get what you pay for. If setup properly at low boost they can work “alright”. Too much boost or someone beating on it constantly and you better get used to rebuilding motors.

Good luck, DanielI

Do a proper BLT. See if the BOV blows open prematurely or not.

I personally don’t like vacuum blocks. I think they are bulky and another area for vacuum leaks. I also am not a fan of having everything tied together like that.

I like the BOV to have a dedicated source as well a dedicated source to the FMU and FPR.

Can’t tell in your picture either if the gate goes directly to the compressor housing or not but that’s what I would do if you haven’t already.


-Daniel
I think my bov valve is bad tell me if I’m wrong
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doesn't look right. Take it apart and inspect the diaphragm.

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How much vacuum m do I need because is in between 14 and 16 when the car is on

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Update I’m kinda confused so today when I was test driving the to see if it makes any boost is still doing the same hit 2 psi and go back to 0 after that I heard a weird sound between the gas tank and the fmu the sound was like a whining noise so I thought it was the fuel pump when I disconnect the return line it was dry no even a single drop but when I disconnect the other one it has a lot of gas ik that is not normal but can someone explain me how that happened? I connect the fpr on the inlet of the fmu and the return line in the outlet.

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I think you got the answer about the next step in troubleshooting a couple of times. Do a proper boost leak test and see what you find. You took the BOV out of the equation, so see if there's a leak anywhere else. See what pressure it takes to open the wastegate. IIRC, some have fairly weak springs because they're designed to work with 2-port boost controllers. You're just taking shots in the dark until you take these steps.
 
If you say your making only 2 psi of boost why are you checking the fuel pump? If you are making boost but it's going lean then that's when I'd be checking fuel related problems. What does your wideband read when you hit this 2 psi? Have you done a boost leak test? Put pressure to the turbo and spray everything down with soapy water.
 
If you say your making only 2 psi of boost why are you checking the fuel pump? If you are making boost but it's going lean then that's when I'd be checking fuel related problems. What does your wideband read when you hit this 2 psi? Have you done a boost leak test? Put pressure to the turbo and spray everything down with soapy water.
I check the fuel pump because I heard a weird sound on that area. My wideband is between 12 and 13. And no I haven’t do boost leak test yet
 
Update I did some boost leak test and I found some leaks I fix it but from the tps sensor and the idle sensor is leaking but it’s not affecting the rpms at all. I test drive the car and now it hits 3 psi and the afpr goes to 9 on boost then goes to 14. I have to keep searching for leaks but Can someone can send me a picture of how the vacuum lines goes because I don’t have the bov connected and the boost controller I don’t have that neither I would appreciate if someone could send me a picture and tell me what else should I be searching for thanks
 
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