420a-T build list need suggestions/review

[Brax93]

Well called the shop today going to run me about 230-250$ for all work which is a good price, idk if that includes labor but thats a good deal

 

[Brax93]

Well engine still at machine shop still haven't started on it yet....but in the mean time I have been cleaning up the bay by redoing the vacuum lines the previous owner did a terrible job and also deleting things so far... everthing AC related is out,Cruise control is out,EGR is out which leads me to EVAP delete which is one of the last things to delete...but mine is in the rear in the tank and all the evap delete write ups are for the ones under the battery tray or under the front bumper.....so could I remove all the vacuum lines and solenoids and leave the canister in the tank and cap the 3 ports and follow the one that goes to the tank and put a valve so it releases the pressure when it builds up also w/o dropping the tank ....and whenever I drop the tank and remove the canister do I need a blockoff plate?? or if you know of a write for it...Thanks

 

[jayson427]

Unless you install megasquirt you will have cels with the egr unplugged and the canister. Something to think about, you can put a resister in to get rid of the cel. Not sure about your canister delete tho since I still have mine hooked up. Check out 2gnt.com for the write up you might find it over there. Also I would tape up everything and repaint your engine bay while your motor is out.

 

[Brax93]

yep whenever I pull the old motor and before putting the new one in im going to clean it up and paint jet black should look pretty good only if my dad had a welder we could patch the unused holes in the bay but that's okay I guess hahah. But yeah I got the resistor for the egr it came with 2 resistors so I might try it for the evap soleniod in the front and see if i get a cel for those too......alittle off topic but I keep getting the code for skipped tooth/cam or crank sensor but both sensors are new and car is running fine so idk and misfire cel might be the coil????Thanks again

 

[jayson427]

You put new sensors recently on the old motor? Make sure your crank sensor is straight. I would double check your timing tho usually cels don't lie . You can get a misfire from a bad coil yes, make sure your plugs are good and gapped to spec.

 

[Brax93]

yeah I think its the coil while back when i was having problems with it dying....crank sensor of course... i replaced alot of things ... ll new plugs and wires were one so probably the coil,might go with msd when I fix it last (96)Talon had it pretty good I think, too bad the connector was different I would tooken it off it haha... and sorry another question while just looking through 2gnt write ups the one with the rebuild he says they need the pistons to bore it out I don't have pistons cant I tell them to just bore it out .20 over and get pistons that are .20 and that should be good right?? ### I didn't want to get psitons.. then it needs bored over then the pistons wouldn't fit

 

[jayson427]

Don't get a msd coil it's the exact same thing as stock, and less reliable.

If your engine needs bored out 0.20 is the next size up in pistons. Double check with the machine shop and ask them what size you will need. Most likely 0.20 tho.

 

[Brax93]

alright yeah probably well,I keep calling hope they start soon... and what about screaming demon coil pack?..I eventually want to do a cop setup w/ MS sometime down the road...I already got the 2.4l VC im going to shave and paint and use on the new engine

 

[Fotowntalon]

I personally like the screaming demon, had good luck. MSD, mine worked well.. for about 6 months then died... As far as pistons, +20 pistons are matched to a +20 bore, however you want to make sure that .020 will clean up the block walls first. Would suck to get +20 pistons, then find out you need to go 30 or 40 or more over to clean up the block.

 

[Brax93]

alright might go with that coil then when I change it and yeah I don't want to do that and have to either take it back to them or get new pistons....ill probably update the list of parts and etc for things im going to add on like gsx brakes better then ours so I can stop better but alot cheaper than wilwood,brembo,stoptech...etc

 

[95VENG]

black under the hood looks great and seems easier to clean for some reason. i went satin black under mine. I am looking forward to seeing how your build comes out.

 

[Brax93]

yeah I like how that satin black looks in the bay..where did you get your paint for it?

 

[95VENG]

i sanded it and and rattle canned it. i used 5 coats of it all over the engine bay and still looks good even after the az heat

 

[Brax93]

hmmm alright thats pretty good... ill probably use my neighbors spray gun since he has one but did you use clear on it or just 5 coats of it?

 

[jayson427]

I use clear over everything I paint and it turns out alot better.

 

[Brax93]

Yeah I did my rims w/ paint from home depot and clear from the can came out great still look good too except the one my mom curbed driving have to touch that up..... heres a pic of it when I did it plus buffed and waxed it awhile back... hoping to do the swap into this but might need to get a cheap car to drive while im working on it but have to wait till I get a job and my parents get their car fixed so they dont have to drive mine....hopefully soon...

 

[95VENG]

i agree with jayson use clear. It turned out nice on mine.

 

[mitecl96]

Glad I got to see this thread. Seems like I am going in the same direction as you. I have a spare block I am going to build. I am getting ready to megasquirt my car. Than build the motor with high compression so I can run without a turbo till I get that set up ready. After reading the post I think I may go to stock cr with custom pistons. And I like the idea of equal shaft lengths. Learning a lot in the past 3 months. Make sure you do a build thread it would be interesting to with this build plus 420a builds or hard to come by and most don't last.

I would use clear coat I regrate not clearing my bay.

 

[Brax93]

Yeah I probably will I'm keeping dates and and taking pictures so I might do a build thread later on and yeah good luck with your build too.... I'm probably going to go with stock compression more room for error and get a away with plus no e85 around here....you could do high cr but usually has to have a really good tune w/ turbo and better to run e85...

 

[Brax93]

well got my block and crank back.... 270$ for it hot tank,bored and honed,crank grind and polish...

block- is .50 bored kinda big I think so going to have to change my pistons size he said it was pitted pretty bad probably from previous owner doing crappy honing..

Crank- .25 going to need new bearings but what about the connecting rods he didn't grind those right just the crank main bearing right???? so the rod bearing size should be the same correct??

pictures are of it still in my car ill get better pics later next thing to do is paint the block

 

[jayson427]

Those are really odd numbers. You will have to get custom pistons made and find some where that makes bearings that size. Usually it's like a .10-.20 but at least you have made some progress. I would think if they told you the crank was . 25 that would go for the mains and rods but I would call and ask for sure. You will have to use a composite head gasket also from looking at the finish of the block which isn't a bad thing.

What brand pistons and rods are you going to use? I see Manley is selling rods for around 325 which is a killer deal. I think I paid 350 for eagle rods 4 years ago. Do you know what bearings you want to use?

 

[Brax93]

yeah that's what I thought too but he had to go that much on the block because of pitting I guess.... uh I don't know.. was going to use weisco pistons but how are manely haven't really heard much about them and I have ACL bearings but I cant use them now so I don't know... not sure... is there a difference between clevite and ACL bearings I think ACL are cheaper

edit: will my connecting rods still work if not that's going to suck alot....

 

[jayson427]

If you get a custom piston you will have a hard time finding ones to work with our stock rods because the wrist pin isn't a full floater like most aftermarket pistons. It's better to build the bottom end with forged because if you want to boost more then 7psi then you will be rebuilding the bottom end again.

I was referring to Manley for the rods which are top of the line. I personally like clevite bearings because that's what I have and they have worked great. Acl is good too. Weisco are a good piston just like any top quality piston. Personally I lean towards je or Aries. My dirt bike went through Weisco's to fast but that's a different story.

Also I would buy a lot of plastic wrap and go to town on the block and crank. Don't let them set out in the open.

Are you going to stick with a oem oil pump or aftermarket?

 

[Brax93]

I have eagle rods now not the stock ones why im hoping they well fit don't want to have to buy new rods and for the oil pump I was going to get the melling oil pump...should I get a High flow one? and I put a trashbag over it and taped it closed, its on the stand now..

 

[captain_kurt]

well got my block and crank back.... 270$ for it hot tank,bored and honed,crank grind and polish...

block- is .50 bored kinda big I think so going to have to change my pistons size he said it was pitted pretty bad probably from previous owner doing crappy honing..

Crank- .25 going to need new bearings but what about the connecting rods he didn't grind those right just the crank main bearing right???? so the rod bearing size should be the same correct??

pictures are of it still in my car ill get better pics later next thing to do is paint the block

AHH nothing like looking into a fresh block!

I love seeing these 420a threads! I am currently doing the 2.4 swap but I still strongly believe in the 420a engine. It is a great engine at that, and it has taught me a lot about the whole experience of keeping /maintaining a car.

If I wasn't doing the 2.4 edz swap I would for sure be boosting mine(no doubt). I was even able to talk to an old Mitsubishi Mechanic that worked on most of 4g and 6g motors that Mitsubishi pushed out. He said that the 420a is not bad (of coarse it does have some flaws).

With my current build all of my stuff is in the machine shop being worked on. I would also like to +1 JaySon and +1 Fotowntalon both of them helped me with not only my pistons and future planning on my build. Both of which are very knowledgeable.