ECMlink 3rd gear pull dsmlink opinions

[sb7775]

if the maf isnt dialed its ok, it wont cause knock counts.... running too rich will also cause counts,QUOTE]

Read what wrong, here is exactly what you typed. Maybe you wanted to say it different and i get what you are saying but that's not what you typed.

I was trying to clarify for future reference.

Regardless that car isn't ready to make WOT pulls. It has a problem that should be addressed first.

Steve

 

[bastard dsm]

wow, your way out in left feild somewhere.....he said that he ADDED fuel and the counts came down. the car wasnt running rich to begin with, i was just letting him know that running to rich CAN cause counts also. i dont dial in my maf on my car and it runs great, im running 24psi and the link shows 30..so what the car drives fine and it makes 600hp. i dont dial in the mafsd and mafcomp, with this guy if he tried to dial in the maf he would still have trouble because he is getting knock with very little boost and timing and after ADDING fuel. even with that said my ltfhi and lo both read zero, even when they were like at ltfhi 5.2 and ltflo -6.3 the car still didnt get knock if my a/f's were in check and timing wasnt too crazy with 20psi of boost. im just saying that even without a dialed maf you sould be able to tune your car at wot.

 

[sb7775]

wow, your way out in left feild somewhere.....he said that he ADDED fuel and the counts came down. the car wasnt running rich to begin with, i was just letting him know that running to rich CAN cause counts also. i dont dial in my maf on my car and it runs great, im running 24psi and the link shows 30..so what the car drives fine and it makes 600hp. i dont dial in the mafsd and mafcomp, with this guy if he tried to dial in the maf he would still have trouble because he is getting knock with very little boost and timing and after ADDING fuel. even with that said my ltfhi and lo both read zero, even when they were like at ltfhi 5.2 and ltflo -6.3 the car still didnt get knock if my a/f's were in check and timing wasnt too crazy with 20psi of boost. im just saying that even without a dialed maf you sould be able to tune your car at wot.

The statement you made was wrong no matter what field you read it from! This isn't about your car so who care how it runs or how much power you think it makes. This is about his car and all cars are different. PS if the link shows 30psi and your running 24psi then your over estimating by20% so if your using the HP estimate in link then your off by 20%. If your referring to the the 2.3 with the s366 its definitely not running 600hp at the boost you mentioned. I just help a friend tune the same setup on 36psi on pump and it ran 142 in the quarter and it might be mid
6XX if he is lucky.

This is the exact reason i don't post much here, you will get much better quality help on the link forum.

Steve

 

[bastard dsm]

did you forget about my thread on my car, it made 565hp at 24psi.... here this might help you remember.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/352013-bw-s366-2-3-fun.html
i dont think about how much power it makes, i know how much power it makes. ha ha just like you said though not all cars are the same, my car makes 600hp at 27psi. i was just using the 24psi to 30psi as a example, when i made the pull and the car laid down 594hp the link was showing 570hp or so. i have tuned many cars and i know that the maf doesnt need to be dialed in order to run smoothly or to make wot pulls.if you like to use the hp feature then yes, it needs to be dialed in order to get the estimation as close as possible. thats not the case for this guy, everyone is saying dial in the maf but thats not going to fix his knock problem...thats what im trying to say. my first comment were two compleatly different things but you just sumed them up together.his problem is its getting knock counts with 15psi of boost and 10-11deg of timing and low 11 a/f's. how is dialing in the maf going to fix this.

 

[JeffGST]

Its stock now cause I had to smog I have a 255 going back in. It is rewired though and Im only boosting 14lbs. Ive read through Jeffs page numerous times but all Im seeing on the link you sent is how to adjust a rev MAFT?

The technique on this page will adjust any MAF whether it be a 1G,2G MAF, or GMAF. It is a simple step by step procedure that you follow. http://www.jeffgst.com/gmafcalibration2.html Pay no attention to the NAME on the address page. It's just an address.

1) Add MAFraw to your captured values
2) Add 12% to your 50Hz slider from where you are currently at
3) Add 11% to your 150Hz slider from where you are currently at
4) Check base timing and tell me where it is currently set at.

Repost the log after a days worth of driving.

JeffGST

 

[chadnum1]

update. did blt and its good, did compression check and its good. new plugs today. Attaching an idle log and 3rd gear log. question, Im showing knock in the same area but now my boost gauge which is set to knock doesnt move and the check engine light doesnt flash, so shouldnt those 2 things still be showing knock if Im getting it?

 

[JeffGST]

You didn't make any of the changes I suggested in the last post. The airflow sliders are still unchanged. WTF Your fuel trims are still just about maxed out positive.

You need to verify base timing. Please post what you have timing currently set at. Coolant temps are a little high but not to the point that it would cause the knock that you are seeing. According to the Front O2 readings, you are not running that lean either. I would still suspect that base timing may be off a degree or two.

The reason why you don't see the CEL flashing on your dash, is because you have it set to flash only when you have knock retard levels above 5.0 degrees. The highest knock I see in that log is 4.6 degrees. I would lower the setting to 3 degrees while you are still tuning.

JeffGST

 

[chadnum1]

I did those pulls before I saw your post. My base timing is at 5 degrees. Accorsing to your formula for adjustments I added 19 tp the 50 slider and 17 to the 150 slider.

 

[JeffGST]

I did those pulls before I saw your post. My base timing is at 5 degrees. Accorsing to your formula for adjustments I added 19 tp the 50 slider and 17 to the 150 slider.

If you are positive that base timing is set at 5 degrees BTDC, then I would make the follow adjustments to the timing sliders.

5500 RPM = -1 degree from where it is right now
6000 RPM = -3
6500 RPM = -5
7000 RPM = -5
7500 RPM = -5
8000 RPM = -5

Then be done with it.

 

[chadnum1]

Ok here are some logs with all the stated changes made. Idle and 3rd gear pull.

 

[JeffGST]

1) Add MAFraw to your captured values
2) Add 12% to your 50Hz slider from where you are currently at
3) Add 11% to your 150Hz slider from where you are currently at
4) Check base timing and tell me where it is currently set at.

Repost the log after a days worth of driving.

JeffGST

Why did you raise the 50Hz slider all the way up to +19%? I told you to go to +12% and LTFT lo would have been perfect. LTFT mid will level out close to 0%, if you followed step #2 on my post. Bring that 150Hz slider back down to +11% and your fuel trims will be perfect after a day full of driving.

Notice your 3rd gear pull look just about knock free.

JeffGST

 

[chadnum1]

The info you gave me said to add stft to ltftlo and that would give me the adjustment. I was just following the formula. Knock is improving and I really appreciate the help Jeff.

Ok I adjusted the sliders as you suggested and drove all day. ltft lo seems to be about zeroed out but ltft mid is still hovering around 10. Whats my next move, the rest of the mid sliders? Heres an idle log after about 40 miles worth of driving.

 

[JeffGST]

Ok I adjusted the sliders as you suggested and drove all day. ltft lo seems to be about zeroed out but ltft mid is still hovering around 10. Whats my next move, the rest of the mid sliders? Heres an idle log after about 40 miles worth of driving.

Idle logs will not show any valuable information about LTFT mid fuel trims. I want to see a log where you are at 75Hz-150Hz MAFraw. But then again, I really don't need to see it, since I know after a few days of driving on the highway that LTFT mid will eventually level out close to zero.

PATIENCE. If you notice that STFT's are -8% to -10% when MAFraw is in the 75-150Hz range, then LTFT mid will eventually level out.