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300-320hp good path or bad path?

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WrXeater

15+ Year Contributor
34
0
May 13, 2005
san diego, California
ok i've finally made up my mind that since im fwd i dont want to go any higher than about 320hp..so here is the mod path im considering
14b with 7cm housing (looking to run 16-18psi)
1g throttlebody
front mount with 2.5 inch piping
2.5 inch downpipe high flow cat and catback(2.5 to handle boost creep)
ported stock manifold
ported O2 housing
ACT 2100lb
ACT XACT 11.5lb flywheel
190 fuel pump
550cc injectors
264/264 cams
s-afc
logger

now what i want to know
so far i see that the 14b is a good turbo up until the top of 3rd where after that it starts to lack
will the 264 cams and 1g throttle body help to take care of the top end in 4th and 5th?
the reason i want to go with 264's and a 14b is because i want to use parts that perform like stock (no lopy idle)(550's won't over run stock fuel pressure regulator) and i want a setup that spools up like a T25 but can pull pretty well on the freeway...
what do you guys think?

ohh yeah and by the way i already have
the act clutch,flywheel, downpipe and exhaust

i also have the 1g t/b i just havent put it on yet.
 
The stock 2G BOV won't handle 18psi, you'll need to swap that out for another BOV or a 1G BOV. Other than that, everything looks good to me. You do know you need an install kit with a j-pipe to put that 14b on a 2G, right?
 
300hp is reasonable for a 14b...320 will be a little tuffer though. There are quite a few DSMs around my area running good times and putting down good numbers with the 14b. I put down 272hp/326tq on a ported 14b, supporting mods, and w/o cams or 1g throttlebody with my 2G. A freind of mine put down 306hp/330tq on a ported 14b, supporting mods, and with FP2 cams and on a 1g. So it seems the cams help a little bit, but nothing extreme. Have you considered a 16g? That would put you around 320hp without the cams...
 
ohh yeah i forgot to add i already have a 1g bov on my car and yes i know i need a kit and i can do the mods myself.....man i was talking about crank hp not whp but i suppose 300whp does sound reasonable with cams and a 1g but im only looking for about 275-280whp...and yes i have considered the 16g but i want the 14b because i can get one for 50 bucks plus my friend ricardo thinks his mildly built 2000 civic si is the fastest thing in the world and that he can own dsm's all day because the other day at the track he beat a gs-t with a t3/t/4 and front mount..he knows nothing about turbo cars nor does he know that the gs-t he beat was running poorly due to being untuned on a bad clutch.....i just want to show him that his civic can be beat by a dsm with a stock turbo on it. :thumb:
then maybe after that i might get a 16g
 
You should just beat him with the t25 then get a bigger turbo if you have the $. Does he have nos or boost?
 
Have you looked at the FP t-28? I have that turbo and love it because it has the stock t-25 look and spool up time, but still has a kick to it.
 
The 1g throttle body does not help with top end flow. I made logs of before and after the 1g throttle body and gained no lbs/min. It will help with partial throttle boost response though (which shouldnt be an issue with a 14b).

Look into getting a different intercooler. The supra MKIV sidemount is a great/affordable upgrade. I used the MKIV SM on my last setup and it made a noticeable difference. I found mine for $45.

You shouldnt have to worry about boost creep with the 14b if you are going to port the o2 housing, so you could probably run slightly larger exhaust if you wanted to. If I were you I would ditch the high flow cat for a test pipe and run 2.5" turbo back (maybe starting at 2.5" and growing to 3").

If you are on the stock bov, you definately need to get something else. You will also need new piping for the 14b. If I were you, I would redo all the piping from turbo to the throttle body. When I upgraded to 2.5" intake piping, it made a noticeable difference in my throttle response and spool. Top end flow increased slightly. Plus it only cost about $60 to make my own piping.

You are well on your way to having a cheap/quick car.
 
You might want to add an EGT or a Wideband to that list if you plan on tuning it to the edge and squeezing every thing you can out of a 14b. Also do you have an air intake now or do you plan on getting one? What about suspension? Urethane motor mounts would be a good idea to help with wheel hop.
 
Get something to log knock. You can have 800* C EGT and still be knocking. A wideband is very expensive and is not really needed for your setup. The two most important things to monitor during tuning are knock and timing IMO... I dont even really look at my EGT's much anymore...
 
I would advise something other than the 14b. Possible the t28 or if mitsu is your style an evo 16g would work as well. Getting the 14b there isn't impossible, it's just a lot more work and would only really be possible on racegas.
 
Turbocharged said:
Get something to log knock. You can have 800* C EGT and still be knocking. A wideband is very expensive and is not really needed for your setup. The two most important things to monitor during tuning are knock and timing IMO... I dont even really look at my EGT's much anymore...


If money wasn't an issue then I would have suggested DSM Link but he seems to be on a budget. DSM Link or something similar in price is the only way to actualy log knock in a 2g to my knowledge. Other than guessing with an EGT gauge or using a WB to calculate yor A/F Ratio. I guess he could look at timing on the logger and if it gets pulled he could assume its knock.

Either way he will need something to at least give him an idea of whats going on. I dont like EGT gauges either but many have done very well tuning with them.
 
WrXeater said:
ok i've finally made up my mind that since im fwd i dont want to go any higher than about 320hp..so here is the mod path im considering
14b with 7cm housing (looking to run 16-18psi)
Realistically, that low a boost won't get you 320WHP on a 14B. More boost + race gas maybe. The T-28 or 16G is the way to go.
(no lopy idle)
The 264/272s performed a bit better in AMSs testing on a 16G. I have the FP2s (similar to 272s) and have no noticable "lobe" whatsoever installed without degreeing.
(550's won't over run stock fuel pressure regulator)
I think you meant to say the 190lph as injectors have nothing to do with overrunnign the stock FPR.
and i want a setup that spools up like a T25 but can pull pretty well on the freeway
Nothing is going to spool as fast a s the T-25, but the T-28 or 16G are a very good compromise for the extra power they give.

Remember you drive 99.5% on the street on pump gas, so it's better to get a little overkill (w.r.t. HP Level) on the parts so can still have fun on the street :dsm:
 
i meant crank hp not whp...i dont care to go that high with my fwd..im also going to get a 1gawd..that one will be the one i really build...my 2g will be my daily driver so 300-320crank hp is enough...
 
If you are talking crank hp you should have no problem getting those number.

For future reference, you should always rate using whp. I never understand why people like to rate their hp from the crank. You should rate hp at the wheels... you know, where the car actually lays down power...

Leave crank horsepower ratings to the car manufacturers... they dont like telling the truth about how much power is actually transfered to where it counts.

Correct me if Im wrong, but I think a stock 2g gst will dyno 160-180 whp stock.
 
i had 432whp on pump with an scm61 stock bottom end...1g...it was fwd but it was fun..jus be prepared to give up 1st and 2nd gear....3rd gear was fun which 99.9% of races happen from....i even had advan a032r's no traction sir :nono:
 
WrXeater said:
now what i want to know
so far i see that the 14b is a good turbo up until the top of 3rd where after that it starts to lack
will the 264 cams and 1g throttle body help to take care of the top end in 4th and 5th?
the reason i want to go with 264's and a 14b is because i want to use parts that perform like stock (no lopy idle)(550's won't over run stock fuel pressure regulator) and i want a setup that spools up like a T25 but can pull pretty well on the freeway...
what do you guys think?

.

Looks pretty good to me, its not the injectors that will over run the fpr its the pump & if you go with the 190 like you have listed this shouldn't be a problem. 264's are actually a good choice for smaller turbo's as they seem to keep the same driveability off boost as stock cams with quite a big gain in mid & top end hp. I personally would like a set of 264's after I have seen some of the numbers they have produced over stock cams, just trying to figure if I can still pass emissions with them :thumb: As far as lag go it's highly overrated. My ported evoIII spools maybe 400 rpms slower then my ported t25 did (if that) but it still feels much better in any situation. The evo at 1 psi feels like the t25 @ 5. I was in your boat when I had the t25 & not wanting anymore lag. I thought the evoIII would be the most I could handle, but now I'm thinking a 50 trim might be nice :D
 
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