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Help me decide on my build path...

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untouchablecc

15+ Year Contributor
852
12
Mar 21, 2008
Mt. pleasant, Pennsylvania
Hey everyone. Long story short. I picked up a 1996 eclipse gsx completely stock except a KN filter. I have a build Journal im working on on here. I want some suggestions and opinions on my set up. First and foremost this a DD and a street car for right now so that alone is the deciding factor for most mods. I want to make a fun quick spooling street car on the stock 7 bolt engine without over building. The only thing left to do on my maintenance list is the timing belt and componenets which I will finish up shortly.

I basically want to make sure my mods list is current and want suggestions on what I should swap out. I am open to different turbo, fuel pump, injector ideas ect.

Here is what I currently have laying around.

8 blade hx35 (needs rebuilt) Not going bigger then a .55 BEP housing
BC272s
BC valve spring and manley retainers
VRSF FMIC
680 and 880 Injectors (Precision)
Ebay dsm manifold with external provision
38mm wastgate with large blue Tial spring (20psi I think)
Dsmlink V2.5
3inch turbo back (only thing installed so far)
Autometer boost, oil pressure gauges
Hallman Pro
Tial Q

I have been considering other turbos such as the HTA68,TD05 20g, and HTA71. I already have the hx35 so its kinda the direction im leaning along with the other mods I currently have. If anyone thinks I should switch a mod out for another please share why.

MODS I need
Fuel pump (is the Walbro 255 still the drop in of choice?)
Wide band
O2 housing (thinking about punishment recirculating)
Clutch (southbend ss with full ceramic or act 2600?) 7 bolt bottom end...


Thats all I can think of for now. Its 517 AM here and my brains kinda fried from work.
 
I would throw in some head studs for peace of mind.

The 255 is by far the most common pump and will be fine for your power needs, just make sure to re-wire it properly. Don't forget that you will need an AFPR with that fuel pump.

I'm sure know already but you listed the Tail Q and not the QR. Even if you go with SD it is still beneficial to recirculate your BOV.
As for an o2 sensor look at Innovate products. They work very well with link.
 
Are you going to be building the bottom end or has a compression and leak down test come back good? I would hate to see all those mods installed on a failing bottom end.
 
I would throw in some head studs for peace of mind.

The 255 is by far the most common pump and will be fine for your power needs, just make sure to re-wire it properly. Don't forget that you will need an AFPR with that fuel pump.

I'm sure know already but you listed the Tail Q and not the QR. Even if you go with SD it is still beneficial to recirculate your BOV.
As for an o2 sensor look at Innovate products. They work very well with link.

Yes sorry I forgot to add the ARP stuff to the list. After you do this stuff for so many years its easy to forget to mention that kinda stuff because it feels like its standard practice haha.

As far as the 255 goes I usually default right to that but I didnt know if there was a better pump to be had for the same money since they have been coming out with 340lph and 400lph but for what I want your right. I have run without the AFPR on a daily for 3 yrs. I know its widely practiced but with some adjusting in link its easy to get around. I do have one sitting on another car though. Im still playing with the tuning thing. Link is easiest but If I want to go MASS or SD im going to need to buy v3 AGAIN because I am borrowing a copy of v2. The other option is the EVO 8 ecu on SD but I do not have much knowledge on it. Thanks for the suggestions.

Are you going to be building the bottom end or has a compression and leak down test come back good? I would hate to see all those mods installed on a failing bottom end.

I drive it everyday and it doesn't feel like a slug at 130k. Im sure ill get around to a compression test. If anything were to go wrong I have 3 other engines that I can rebuild but a good idea non the less.
 
Nice build plan lay out everything you have, and innovative is great you can use it with link. I had link lite then upgraded so I can get rid of the maft and run sd. it will be great for my long term goals. Plus it will make my car run so much better so im really excited.
 
Thank you:thumb: Im used to running the AEM WB but everyone seems to be going innovative. I do have the gm 3bar and temp sensor to run SD. Ive just never ran it on a DD. I am used to just thowing a gm maf inline and calibrating it. Setting my injector scaling and getting my AF per rev in line and not messing with a whole lot. What are you feelings on running SD for a DD?
 
Sd I cant think of any drawbacks my friend drives his too and from Chicago and from college dd everywhere around here. I hate the gm maft.
 
Okay I will spend more time researching into it and go from there. Its a pretty good suggestion and something Ive never tried.
 
A 3 bar might not meet you goals for boost pressure.

There is no disadvantage to running sd on a daily driver that I can think of. And on e you have it set accurately it takes minutes to make changes when your setup changes.
 
A 3 bar might not meet you goals for boost pressure.

There is no disadvantage to running sd on a daily driver that I can think of. And on e you have it set accurately it takes minutes to make changes when your setup changes.

I was more or less stating I had the stuff to do it. I would probably need an AEM 5 bar or something similar huh? A GM 3 bar could get me started though right?

What do you mean on e?
 
I've had bad luck with the lc1 by innovate. The main brain fried within a week then after I got a replacement my gauge went out. Bought it brand new too. Others have had better luck then me but that's my experience with it. Looks like you're on the right path.
 
Sorry that was a typo on my phone. It should read "once".

Ah I got ya. So how often do you have to make changes to the tune? When I was running the gm mass I almost never opened my laptop unless I wanted to screw off with anti lag or make and adjustment. My only concern is I don't know how to tune it or set it up at all. I know people who can and are very good at it but I like to at least know what im doing and try and set a car up from ecu install to being able to make a little power on my own. I mean Ill learn it but im not familiar with it.

I've had bad luck with the lc1 by innovate. The main brain fried within a week then after I got a replacement my gauge went out. Bought it brand new too. Others have had better luck then me but that's my experience with it. Looks like you're on the right path.

Your the first person Ive heard say anything bad about the Innovative wideband:hmm: Ive been running AEM for years and just running the white wire right into my ECU to log WB. Did they refund your money or send you a new gauge?
 
They were cool with the replacement the first time. Second time I called for the gauge they wanted me to unhook everything and send it in a second time. So I still don't have a gauge and my warranty is over. I never figured out if I had a bad ground or just a fluke product. I want to buy the new lc2 though so I'm not blaming anyone for what happened.
 
Does anyone have any clutch advice for me? I have been running ACT2600 products on my 6 bolt engines for the longest time but should I run something with a lighter pressure plate since im rocking a 7 bolt now. I know a lot of guys goes south bend 2200 sstz ect.. I really liked my 2600 with 4 puck sprung for a street car. It shifted the best out of any ACT clutch ive owned but I don't want to be too hard on the crank. I know when you do the neutral saftey mod its easier on the cranks because you dont have to push the clutch in and squish all the oil out of the bearings for a start but I just wanted some current 7 bolt clutch info please.
 
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