30 weight Brad Penn Break-in oil in the winter??

[EclipticalGS]

Its cold in michigan now, and my womans talons motor is being broken in (it has 500 miles on it)..I have been using napa 10-30 for the first 50/250/500...I just started hearing great things about Brad Penn oils and saw they had a straight 30W Break-in oil..

Would I be safe to break in her motor the rest of the way with this straight 30W break-in oil? Or should I use the 10-30 partial synthetic they sell (It only has 500 miles on motor)? Keep in mind its going to very cold soon and I dont know if straight 30W in the winter will cause problems, and also how long are you supposed to use the Brad penn Break-in oil?? 1000? 2000 miles?

Thanks guys

 

[Black95TSIawd]

I believe the brad penn oil is best used for the first start and then a hard break in. I would continue with whatever you've been using and then switch to standard brad penn oil.

BTW, 30w oil is too thick for cold starts, especially considering how cold it gets by you.


(you should have broken in the motor the hard way)

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

I believe the brad penn oil is best used for the first start and then a hard break in. I would continue with whatever you've been using and then switch to standard brad penn oil.

BTW, 30w oil is too thick for cold starts, especially considering how cold it gets by you.

I would have to agree with ^^^

 

[unisonicz]

I believe the brad penn oil is best used for the first start and then a hard break in. I would continue with whatever you've been using and then switch to standard brad penn oil.

BTW, 30w oil is too thick for cold starts, especially considering how cold it gets by you.


(you should have broken in the motor the hard way)

What do you mean broken in the hard way if you don't mind me asking.

Thanks, Kyle

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

What do you mean broken in the hard way if you don't mind me asking.

Thanks, Kyle

I think Dave Buschur best describes how to break it in the "hard way" here.

Breaking in an engine..................

 

[unisonicz]

Thanks for the link GRAVEDIGGER. I had read that a while back, I just wasn't putting 2 and 2 together . With that being said, I have seen countless posts to drive it normal for around 50 miles to let the rings set. Does that still apply here?

Kyle

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

I have seen countless posts to drive it normal for around 50 miles to let the rings set. Does that still apply here?

Kyle

I have heard the same thing about the rings, but I have also heard people go right at it and give it hell off the start like Dave Buschur says and they don't have any problems with the rings seating. I guess as long as the engine is built right it shouldn't be a problem.

 

[ramsack]

I've never believed in babying an engine that is built in modern day to break it in. I beat the piss out of my RC car engine right off the bat after getting fuel tuned in and it was fine. They're a little different. The piston and sleeve actually need to wear a tiny bit (no rings), but most people make it seem like it takes a few hours of running to achieve this, but it's only a few minutes.

 

[EclipticalGS]

I know how to break in an engine, my motor pulls 190 across the board with a mild break-in not necessarily beating on it, but puting load on it every time I drove. and I did the same for my girls motor.

But...I wanted to know if using the break-in oil for the next 500 miles will benefit anything, but now I know its too cold like I thought in the first place.

So what im asking is if Brad Penn's Partial Synthetic would be a good oil to use at 500 miles, I know you shouldn't use full synthetic for a while, but can i use partial?? Thanks

 

[DSM1G90]

I'd wait until the full break-in is completed before switching to syn oils.

Even after the initial break-in, still run regular dino oil (Castrol or Vavoline is great stuff for this ...) for the next two runs just for security measures.

Gotta make sure that them rings are fully seated before putting that syn oil in.

Car aint gonna fall apart running dino for a while ....

-DSM

 

[Jonnynitrous]

My friend brought his car to a performance shop they rebuilt the motor. ran it to get the air out of the cooling system and straight on the dyno.sure there was a couple of mins of soft pulls. but with in probably 30min it was on the floor.when it came off the dyno after the hour tune session they did a leak down test the cyl were all right around the 3% leakage (which is nothing).

and no don't waste your money on the penn oil
its not going to gain you anything.

 

[JusMX141]

Our cars do not have flat tappet camshafts, so you do not need to be using Brad Penn Break-In Oil. Honestly, there is more zinc content in the regular Brad Penn Racing Oil than is necessary for protection in our cars.

Buy the 10W30 Racing Oil and you'll be fine. My last three engine rebuilds were run during their initial break-in period (first 50 miles) using the cheapest SAE30 Non-Detergent I could find, then I ran a standard 10W30 Conventional dino oil until the 3k-mile mark, then resumed with Mobil 1.