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3" Exhaust Install / Stock Bolts wont budge!

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GofaST4life

15+ Year Contributor
2,897
132
Oct 21, 2007
Medina 44256, Ohio
alrite guys, ive been under her for about an hour (LOL), and these dang bolts wont move...ive hit em with a hammer to try and losen them up, ive been spraying them with PB Blaster...and nuttin, so now my arm hurts and new shiny new 3" exhaust is still not installed...

any other ideas on how i can break these bolts loose? or should i just keep at it once i get some dinner...

:dsm::talon::laser:
 

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ok, so this has been the nite from HE** you guys...like i dont even know where to begin...

first off, i said fu*k it, im going to wait till i have my DP then just drop the whole thing its just going to be easier and now i have a reason to push myself to buy one...i took a close look at the flanges, and it looks like one single peice, like someone welded them together...the rust is out of control...that was the ok part...

now you guys can laugh at me all you want, god knows i was sitting there thinking 'WTF, how did this happen"...

ready...wait for it, wait for it...MY CAR WAS STUCK UP ON THE JACK STANDS!!

somehow, someway, the one rear jack stand was at its highest setting, which was higher than my jack would go! WTF....so there i am standing there, scratching my head...

so after like and hour and a hlaf of playing with the stands and jacking the car up here, removing this stand then placing the stand there and letting the jack down, then jacking it back up on the other side...it goes on and on...i wanted to shoot myself...

like....ughhh....i need a beer....

EDIT: forgot to thank all you guys...thankx, im just going to take it to my gf's house, her dad will have the tools i need to cut off that mofo
 
this flange and bolts is what ultimatly made up my mind...before the freaking jackstand crap happened...
 

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Sorry we couldn't help more, if I were there I'd hand you a brew, definitely deserve it after that haha that's pretty funny about the jack stand though.
 
Been there before on my 2gnt. You're going to have to grind them and torch them off. Drill out a new hole (or torch through the metal like I did) and go and buy new bolts for like 2-3 bucks. Problem solved!
 
i was at the same place like a month ago, but i had a downpipe to put on as well.
luckily i got off my 02 housing bolts.. after 3 hours of me and a good friend soaking them with blaster and liquid wrench i went to the local home depot and got a black and decker recip/sawzall and cut the muffler from the rest and ripped it all out.. i wish i would have spent the 50 bucks before i started because if i had it would have been a 1 hour deal.. not to mention i've needed one for awhile now, and have used it 3-4 times since then already..

good luck.
 
this flange and bolts is what ultimatly made up my mind...before the freaking jackstand crap happened...

If that's the flange for the axlebaxk portion of the exhaust you don't need to worry about; just use a sawzall on that bioottchh like I did. :D
Anyway, this was the reason I also went full turboback, much easier and took such little time. Is there some way you can get like a small torch?
 
dont be sorry twoTSis, yeah, the brew def felt good...yeah the jack stand thing is still making me laugh when i think about it...

my new exhaust came with the bolts so, as soon as i get over to my gf's house, im handing her dad a brew, then we will start hacking...

suckx im the only DSMer in this part of the woods...

cheers boys
 
If that's the flange for the axlebaxk portion of the exhaust you don't need to worry about; just use a sawzall on that bioottchh like I did. :D
Anyway, this was the reason I also went full turboback, much easier and took such little time. Is there some way you can get like a small torch?

my gf's dad builds custom log homes for people, hes got all the tools i wish i could have/afford...it will be fun, torching/cutting/pwning those friggen bolts...
 
hey,

i am bumping this because i am having trouble getting a bolt off a flange also. I was wondering if the bolt and flange are already soaked in wd40 from a previous day, if it was ok to still use a propane torch down there without stuff exploding. Using jack stands to keep it up, so there isnt that much room. Its the flange on the exhaust by the axel, connecting axel back to the s shaped pipe.

What about having put fresh wd40 and then torching?

Thanks
 
why drown in a glass of water....... take a grinder and cut them... easy like that.. ohh my god. The head is no only for have hair on it, its for think to....
 
umm ok. i dont have a grinder, and that doesn't answer my question about wd40 being flammable and people in previous posts on this thread suggesting using a torch.


That's more of a threadjack then a bump:nono:
Also, I didn't want to make another thread when there is clearly another one on the exact same topic, so I figured I would just try to get some more info, and this thread is few months old.

but thanks for those inputs anyways.
 
wd40 is definitely flammable. It will burn and start your exhaust on fire if you use a torch. Honestly though its still okay to use a torch as long as you are careful and know that it will start on fire. I never worry about it and on exhaust you are talking about parts and areas that are fairly heat resistant and the fire will go out if you just leave it since the wd40 will be the only fuel available. The most important thing is to be careful not to breather the smoke and always have a fire extinguisher near if you are working with a torch under any conditions.
 
I just took my stock exhuast off at the o2 housing and cut it before the axle and pulled it out in 2 peices, looking at the bolts I knew I was never getting the bolts loose..
 
This is very easy i had the same problems, first off get your sawzall and cut the exshust into 2 pieces one right after the car and then right after the car leaving the flange from the stock cat back on there. then take the downpipe and cat off together, and either take your torch or go to a muffler shop. And then have then remove the stud. I torched the flange off then the studs were hot enough to take vice grips and twist them right out and bam it was a 20 min deal, instead of trying to kill yourself under a car 10in abov ethe ground.
 
thanks for replies, i guess torch is the next best option. I'll have to give it shot, but i dont have a fire extinguisher or know where to get one, hopefully i wont need one, LOL.
 
Break out the impact weapons! Seriously though, an impact gun will either destroy the threads and render them useless or it may actually get them out unscathed. Even an electric one should do the trick.

Seems like the safest option.
 
thanks for replies, i guess torch is the next best option. I'll have to give it shot, but i dont have a fire extinguisher or know where to get one, hopefully i wont need one, LOL.

I had no luck with a touch on mine. I ended up grinding them off with a small air powered grinder. If you have a grinder around and do not need the stock bolts that might be worth a try.
 
What i always do with rusted or stuck bolts and nuts.

If you have a nut splitter, just pop that bad boy on there and ratchet away on it, it'll cut the nut in half and then just smack the bolt with a hammer.

If you don't want to buy a nut splitter and have a drill, hammer, chisel (or flat head screw driver in a pinch). Take a tiny drill bit and on one side of the bolt drill two or three tiny holes in a line parallel to the bolt. Becareful to drill only about as deep as the bolt and not too much into the threads. I have accidently gone into the threads on some bolts and not had a problem with them afterwards. When you make the line of holes put your chisel across them and give it a couple good whacks, 95% of the time it will split the nut and you can put the chisel in there and slightly pry, it will open it up and you can just whack or yank it off. Working on old rusty 4x4s that get caked and mud and water has taught me some tricks cheap redneck tricks. ;)
 
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