The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2 Manifold bolts wont budge!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

GofaST4life

15+ Year Contributor
2,897
132
Oct 21, 2007
Medina 44256, Ohio
alright guys, after finding a crack in my manifold, i decided to take it off, this is probably the first time this maniflod has been taken off, it was stock when i bought it...anyways, i got as far as the picture shows and then spent about an hour working those damn things...PB Blaster was used, i let it soak while i was doing other things and i added more during the process.

well i started to strip both the bolts and the sockets im useing...im out of ideas...anyone got a helpful hint?
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
well, i did think of that but the car is in my garage on stands with no wheels...so...i gues si could.

would it be bad to start it with all the other bolts connecting it to the head not in, as long as i just let it idea? or will that hurt the car?
 
It would take forever with a hair dryer, not too mention it wouldnt get it very hot. Torch it or crank it over. The bolts should come out. If your stripping the sockets, somethings wrong, I had to use a big ass breaker bar on my mani to turbo bolts the first time I took them off but I didnt strip anything.
 
Are you using a 6 or 12 point socket? If a 12 point go out and pick up a 6 point. That will give you a lot more surface area on the head (less chance for stripping the head off)
 
well i hope nuttings wrong, ive never pulled or pushed so hard on a craftsman wrench in my life and im not exactly a weak dude...think i sprained my hand in the process (no joke)...i think im going to go for the torch idea...i just hope i didnt strip them bad enough to not even be able to put a socket on them :(
 
Get the biggest, baddest, meanest breaker bar you can get for leverage. And use heat if that doesn't work.
 
Do you have a breaker bar or a cheater bar? You should only need a good socket and a long lever. Put the socket and ratchet on the bolt then go into your bathroom and take down your shower curtain rod (preferably a metal one). Seperate it in half and take that out to your car and slip it over the ratchet handle and crack that bolt loose. Get the other bolt loose, and then put the shower rod back:shhh:
 
Do you have a breaker bar or a cheater bar? You should only need a good socket and a long lever. Put the socket and ratchet on the bolt then go into your bathroom and take down your shower curtain rod (preferably a metal one). Seperate it in half and take that out to your car and slip it over the ratchet handle and crack that bolt loose. Get the other bolt loose, and then put the shower rod back:shhh:

I use the upper part of the my jack handle. Its always around when I need it. Fits over a 3/8s and 1/2" ratchet.
 
hahaha nice shower call, but i used my hydrualic jack lever for a breaker bar, thats when i stripped it the first time...thought i got it, but looked and, nope stripped...####...

and yes im using 14mm...

i had a thought...now lets say that the heat dont work or they are to stripped to even hold the socket...i was thinking i could file down the bolt on the sides to make it fit a 13mm perfectly? yes, no?

i know why this is happening, i was working on her and my gf asked me if i was still thinking of sellign it...i think she is doing this to spite me LOL
 
If they're stripped badly enough you can try vice grips but you're going to lose a lot of leverage. Try starting the car, letting it heat up, and blasting it with more PB blaster before you strip it even worse.
 
If you get them out cleanly be sure to run a thread chaser or a tap in the turbine housing to make sure the threads are clean and straight. Also on the reinstall anti-seize is your friend for future uses.
 
Got mine with a 18" long breaker bar and 14mm socket. It'll squeak once it cracks loose. GL and wear gloves if you have butter fingers.
 
If all else fails, go get your smallest possible pipe wrench. It's amazing how much a pipe wrench will grip! Be expected to replace the nut ofcourse. Be careful though, when I took off my mani from the head the first time, the stud broke inside the head. Talk about a pain! Good Luck!
 
Did you knock gently on the bolts when you added the PB Blaster? Usually that helps in loosening bolts. I take a socket wrench and hammer on the handle a little bit. Use a monkey wrench if your bolts are stripped. Remember to get new bolts afterwards.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top