UofACATS
20+ Year Contributor
- 707
- 18
- May 11, 2004
-
Tucson,
Arizona
My buddy is parting his car. He has a PTT twin-disc with nearly 100 miles on it and I want it. 
I have been researching these exhaustively (or so I think), and I've come up with too much information, which hopefully can be deciphered here.
CAR:
1995 GSX
WHAT I WANT:
-Hard launch capabilities, but I'm NOT a drag racer. I launch the car almost never. I'd like to have it there if I want it though, the car is AWD..
-Fast shifts at higher RPMs. This is key, and the highest priority.
-Decent feel around town. I have a pretty good tolerance.
-Good torque holding capability, but I'm only on a 3065 on E85. I'll have no trouble there.
Questions/Things I think I know:
SLAVE CYLINDER:
-Isuzu Trooper slave. Modified to fit the bellhousing. This comes with my used clutch and is the best option for slowing down the very quick engagement of the clutch.
-2G FWD oem slave. Stock fit and the biggest bore out of the dsm slaves. Very possible given the accumulator information we now have. I like to modify things as little as possible, with concerns of durability.
PEDAL STOP:
-Under carpet block seems like the simplest, cleanest option. (How big should it be?) This is TBD by the clutch adjustment, i.e. it's as big as it needs to be.
FLYWHEEL BOLTS:
-6-Bolt flexplate bolts (MD952233) These are 17mm long and are short enough, yet longer than the Evo bolts at 15mm which are likely too short.
THROW OUT BEARING:
-Modified combination of the PTT and oem units, pressed together. Instruction via PTT site.
CLUTCH DISCS:
-In '06, the discs went from .250 to .200. Mine should be the .200 version. I should measure for wear on the used discs, if possible.
-Metallic (higher torque rating) or Organic (lower torque rating) I'll easily be able to tell just by looking.
EXTRAS:
-These clutches are rebuildable for a very reasonable price. I should send it in for inspection / possible rebuild before attempted install.
-Re-install the accumulator for enhanced engagement qualities. Bleed repeatedly as trapped air is stubborn.
-Install ATI or Fluidamper based on evidence it counters the heavier harmonics seen with the twin-disc setups.
-Use the metal spline alignment tool. The plastic ones get destroyed quickly.
What have I gotten wrong? When there are multiple options, which do you think to be the best option?
Thank you! The clutch is the last severe weak point in my setup, this is where things get good..
I have been researching these exhaustively (or so I think), and I've come up with too much information, which hopefully can be deciphered here.CAR:
1995 GSX
WHAT I WANT:
-Hard launch capabilities, but I'm NOT a drag racer. I launch the car almost never. I'd like to have it there if I want it though, the car is AWD..
-Fast shifts at higher RPMs. This is key, and the highest priority.
-Decent feel around town. I have a pretty good tolerance.
-Good torque holding capability, but I'm only on a 3065 on E85. I'll have no trouble there.
Questions/Things I think I know:
SLAVE CYLINDER:
-Isuzu Trooper slave. Modified to fit the bellhousing. This comes with my used clutch and is the best option for slowing down the very quick engagement of the clutch.
-2G FWD oem slave. Stock fit and the biggest bore out of the dsm slaves. Very possible given the accumulator information we now have. I like to modify things as little as possible, with concerns of durability.
PEDAL STOP:
-Under carpet block seems like the simplest, cleanest option. (How big should it be?) This is TBD by the clutch adjustment, i.e. it's as big as it needs to be.
FLYWHEEL BOLTS:
-6-Bolt flexplate bolts (MD952233) These are 17mm long and are short enough, yet longer than the Evo bolts at 15mm which are likely too short.
THROW OUT BEARING:
-Modified combination of the PTT and oem units, pressed together. Instruction via PTT site.
CLUTCH DISCS:
-In '06, the discs went from .250 to .200. Mine should be the .200 version. I should measure for wear on the used discs, if possible.
-Metallic (higher torque rating) or Organic (lower torque rating) I'll easily be able to tell just by looking.
EXTRAS:
-These clutches are rebuildable for a very reasonable price. I should send it in for inspection / possible rebuild before attempted install.
-Re-install the accumulator for enhanced engagement qualities. Bleed repeatedly as trapped air is stubborn.
-Install ATI or Fluidamper based on evidence it counters the heavier harmonics seen with the twin-disc setups.
-Use the metal spline alignment tool. The plastic ones get destroyed quickly.
What have I gotten wrong? When there are multiple options, which do you think to be the best option?
Thank you! The clutch is the last severe weak point in my setup, this is where things get good..
