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2G 2ga 6 bolt swap idle issues

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chrisman287

Proven Member
737
523
Jul 19, 2021
New_York
First thread! Going to be completely honest, I don’t know shit about these cars ;) I’ve had several 4th Maximas for over the past decade (currently have one with a semi built cammed 3.5 and another that was turbo currently working on a new kit and a fully built 3.5). Those cars are my bread and butter but this one, not so much.

I wanted something new to learn and work on. Really wanted an early 90s Honda but cheap ones are clapped and didn’t want to spend $6k+ on a clean one. Ended up with a ‘95 Talon TSi FWD. Seems as though dude bought it and didn’t know what to do with it. He originally wanted $4K and we settled for $2K. Before I purchased it he couldn’t get it started but had a video and motor sounded healthy so I took the gamble. Loaded it up on the trailer, got it home and put about 6 gallons of gas. It runs :p Turbo is blown and battery is shot.

One thing I haven’t had luck with is the idle. I found a nearly broken cas wire (had a quick splice to it from a failed translator wiring attempt). I spliced that back together and it’s idling smoother. Cold start it’ll idle around 16-1700 rpms and will drop to about 900-1000 but then will go up and down as the car warms up and will eventually settle around 2000. I checked the manifold for any vacuum leaks but didn’t find any. I may do a smoke test soon to confirm that. I haven’t cracked open the translator yet to check settings I will get to that soon. Valve cover is vta (not sure if that’s an issue). Intercooler is off it wouldn’t fit on the auto transport with it but I don’t think that would affect idle. Is there anything else I should look for?

Info on car:
GSC S2 274 cams
BC springs/retainers
Adjustable cam gears
Gates timing belt
Accel Thundervolt wires
Holset HX35 (replacing with a Precision 5858)
OBX turbo manifold
VRSF intercooler
HKS SSQV BOV
Ebay wastegate (not on the car)
AEM fuel rail
Aeromotive FPR
880cc injectors
Walbro 255 fuel pump
GM 3” MAF
MAF translator
Battery relocated
Relay box relocated
Oil filter relocated
ACT 2600lb pressure plate
ACT 6 puck sprung clutch
Aluminum radiator
Slim fans
Rear strut bar
KYB AGX struts
Unknown lowering springs
17” wheels (tires are super old)

Posted some pictures of how it started vs how it’s going. Engine bay was a hot mess when I got it.

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your getting unmetered air from the port on the side of the valve cover. I'm pretty sure thats causing your high idle. Im not sure how it should be with your setup.
do you have ECMlink or some other way to tune for the larger injectors?

You probably want to ditch the ebay wastegate, they are known to suck ass.
That looks like a knock off SSQV bov. If it is it might work for a little while but they suck ass too and you will start to get compressor surge.
 
Your FIAV could be stuck open, your ISC malfunctioning or maybe even something as simple as a bad oring on the idle set screw.

If you still have the AC system installed, does it idle up or down when you turn it on? Up = good ISC, down = bad ISC. There's no way to test the FIAV other than a block off plate.

Basically you are getting too much air past your throttle plate. Either via an atmospheric leak post throttle plate or through the orifices in the throttle body like the FIAV or ISC.
 
Did someone say throttle body shaft seals yet?
BISS - oring?
ISC sticky or weak?
Not sure sure about the vac hose setup you got on the old TB. Maybe block those off with caps instead connecting the nipples togeather with hoses.
 
You also have the throttle cable adjusted all the way to one side. You need to check throttle cable slack and as mentioned isc and fiav are working correctly.
 
Fogot to menton to check that your idle switch is plugged in and getting a ground. Also is the TPS working and set to about 9% at idle (IIRC)?
 
The BOV is a knockoff. I have an OG SQV or Blitz BOV from my old turbo kit as well as a Turbonetics Evolution WG (needs a rebuild) that I intend to throw on the car (got the car as is).

Vac lines on TB I intend to block individually with separate caps.

Throttle cable is adjusted all the way but there’s still slack on the cable it’s not super tight.

I will likely vent the port on the valve cover to before the MAF.

TPS is plugged. I’d like to clean the IAC see if that’ll help. Still have to check BISS and FIAV.

I decided to play with the MAFT settings. That’s all I have to help with the larger injectors. Set AUX to 6, BASE to F and IDLE to 5. MID is set to A and WOT is set to 3 (didn’t touch those). Wanted to check fuel pressure but now I have a no start condition :confused:

Previous owner set starter to be engaged with a toggle switch. Key will not start the car alone. While cranking it was cranking slower and slower.. battery voltage was around 9 after cranking so swapped in a good battery @ 12.4V and tried again but this time there was no crank not even a click. I thought the toggle switch failed so tried another with no change. Tried bypassing the starter relay with jumpers (put both black/red wires to the black/yellow wire please correct me if I’m wrong) and again no change. Starter appears to be original so I did remove it and will replace it. One thing I do see are a bunch of various plugs that are hooked up to nothing. I will post those shortly with a description of where the are. I don’t think they make a difference in starting but would like to try to figure out if they’re necessary or not

EDIT: Figured out most of them.
 
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Is it okay to leave knock sensor unplugged? Found another broken harness. Figure having timing pulled isn’t such a bad idea considering I have no other way to do it.
For idle and no boost - yes.
The day you want to start making some power, you need it, unless you like to break stuff while you are learning.

If you run E85 - it is less important.
 
Trying to take it one step at a time.

Pruning the harness as much as I can until the starter gets here.

Two plugs left to figure out that I did not see in that engine bay connector thread (thanks a lot for that btw).

EDIT: Figured out below.
 
first picture is for the theft alarm horn

a-45 in this diagram
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the second pic might be for the brake fluid level switch
 
Just to update this.. Going to attach a log also. Car was warm and idling.

I still don't have a solution for the port on the side of the valve cover. I blocked it off for now for idle purposes.

I flipped around the TPS and set it to .63V car off but after putting it back together it's at .65 (will adjust it again later).

Got rid of the MAFT and have ECMLink V3 now.

Reconnected the knock sensor.

Don't have a wideband hooked up yet.
 

Attachments

  • log.2022.08.25-01.elg
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Just to update this.. Going to attach a log also. Car was warm and idling.

I still don't have a solution for the port on the side of the valve cover. I blocked it off for now for idle purposes.

I flipped around the TPS and set it to .63V car off but after putting it back together it's at .65 (will adjust it again later).

Got rid of the MAFT and have ECMLink V3 now.

Reconnected the knock sensor.

Don't have a wideband hooked up yet.
Took a look - Check your setup information on the DTC's tab - You have "Automatic" transmission selected. Not sure what that does on a MT car. I would uncheck it.

Also, under the ECU inputs tab, if you have Baro set for the MDP sensor input- Not sure if you even have an MDP sensor - but you probably don't have it wired to a Barometer sensor.
 
Took a look - Check your setup information on the DTC's tab - You have "Automatic" transmission selected. Not sure what that does on a MT car. I would uncheck it.

Also, under the ECU inputs tab, if you have Baro set for the MDP sensor input- Not sure if you even have an MDP sensor - but you probably don't have it wired to a Barometer sensor.
Unchecked auto transmission as well as evap/egr and O2/cat.

I do have a MDP sensor with an adapter and a vacuum line going to it. Should I set that to MDP or leave it as undefined?
 

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  • log.2022.08.25-02.elg
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I noticed RPMs bounce around when pushing the clutch in or out at idle. Assume that's not normal?

This one when I started the capture I left my foot on the clutch pedal until 10 secs then released it. At 20 secs I put my foot down on the pedal again and kept it held until 30 secs then released again.
 

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  • log.2022.08.25-04.elg
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This is with MDP selected for MAP
Technically, the MAP = MDP input selector setting won't affect anything until the mapping of MDP is changed from factory/none to something custom. Factory/none keeps the ECU hooked up to the factory code, assuming a factory sensor - so undefined as a MAP setting is ok too.
I noticed RPMs bounce around when pushing the clutch in or out at idle. Assume that's not normal?

This one when I started the capture I left my foot on the clutch pedal until 10 secs then released it. At 20 secs I put my foot down on the pedal again and kept it held until 30 secs then released again.
Some RPM change with the clutch could be normal - not sure if that means anything.
Are you running a GM MAF? Thats going to need quite a bit of tweaking in the MAF Comp tab.
Also - the 2G MAF also has IAT and Barometric sensors in it. If your not running stock MAF, you will probably need to set something for those. I don't think those are part of the GM MAF package.


Definitely read this:
 
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Trying to get this thing to at least idle. It won't unless I hold the gas pedal. I have WB hooked up but not to ECU. AFRs are super rich (in the 10s)

Mod list is up to date
 

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  • log.2023.07.14-02.elg
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Trying to get this thing to at least idle. It won't unless I hold the gas pedal. I have WB hooked up but not to ECU. AFRs are super rich (in the 10s)

Mod list is up to date
If it reads rich, take out fuel, or add more air. Where is the BISS set? open it?
In ECU setup, you probably want to lock MDP for ECU code, and lock rear 02 for ecu code.

You are in SD mode in the log - just confirming.
 
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