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2g wont rev up! HELP fellas!

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GSXtacy724

10+ Year Contributor
115
0
Dec 16, 2008
Sharon, Pennsylvania
Ok guys, after a long process of head work and cams, as well as keydiver chip, now my car wont rev up when I give it gas. I've tried the gas pedal as well as the throttle body, and YES the throttle cable is connected. The car is a 98gsx btw. What could it be? TPS? thats about all I can think of. Someone mention a "Idle closed switch"? but I never heard of that... thanks in advance guys!
Btw, check engine light is on, but I cant drive it to get it scanned. :hmm:
 
I know you said the Cable is connected, but can you see the cable physically pulling open the throttle plate?

yup. Even opened the TB with my hand while the car was running. The cars an auto and the previous owner did the VFAQ electrical shift kit deal. He said if the switch aint to the right it will put the car in limp mode, and thinking about it after i put the motor back in the car, theres a gray wire that I dont know where it goes. Maybe the battery? Could that be possible?
 
yup. Even opened the TB with my hand while the car was running. The cars an auto and the previous owner did the VFAQ electrical shift kit deal. He said if the switch aint to the right it will put the car in limp mode, and thinking about it after i put the motor back in the car, theres a gray wire that I dont know where it goes. Maybe the battery? Could that be possible?

Is the gray wire from your cars Factory harness wrapped in loom? Or is it a wire that the previous owner installed? Take a picture of it and post it for us if you can.

will the car rev in park?
 
Is the gray wire from your cars Factory harness wrapped in loom? Or is it a wire that the previous owner installed? Take a picture of it and post it for us if you can.

will the car rev in park?

It is wrapped in loom but it reaches the battery thats why I ask. I'm gonna see if I can trace it tomorrow. No, the car does NOT rev in park.
 
So the engine STARTS and idles, but it wont rev up EVEN when the throttle blade is wide open with the engine running?

That almost seems impossible?!?! :confused:

How fat is this gray wire? Is it a like a 10 gauge wire?
Or is it thin?
 
I know man, your telling me. No bro, its like a 18gauge wire. Maybe my firing order is wrong?
 
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That is the picture that ECMtuning (DSMlink) has on their site.

However, when I had my wires mixed up for my spark plugs. The car would rev up slow, and the temp. go up. Never had a problem with not reving.

Oh and GSXtacy, you a Steelers fan? Cause if you are, I might have told you the wrong firing order ;)
 
You have to switch some plug wires when you install a 95ecu in a 96+ dsm. If you already havent done so.
 
DSM4me44, thanks, and nope, not a steelers fan! Actually a 49ers fan LOL.
Talondave- thanks man, I probably have the car set to stock. I'll give this a shot and let you guys know. thanks!
 
Who installed the chip? Maybe you should open th ECU back up and check it for damage or improper installation just to be safe.

Also I would invest in a cheap scan tool for 30-50 dollars. It will help you greatly in a situation like this. That CEL probably holds the key to this problem you're having.
 
Jeff Oberholtzer. The DSMchip guy. Im gonna try a few things. I rented a scan tool from autozone, im gonna scan my car with that
 
Does it idle normal? I can't see how the idle wouldn't go up if you opened the throttle plate by hand.

So you're saying that with it idling and the throttle plate opened by hand, it just keeps idling like normal? If that's so I'm thinking that something is messed up with your throttle body. Like the plate that the cable attaches to is slipping around the shaft.

Can you change the idle with the BISS screw?
 
its actually idling at like 2 grand. It like wants to rev but chokes. Its hard to explain :hmm:

AHHH...now you're explaining it a little better. It sounds like it could be a misfire of somekind. Either Fuel issues or ignition issues aka (plugs,wires,ignition coil,power transistor, wrong firing order)

You probably also have a boost leak and or/Vacuum Leak/Intake Manifold leak/Throttle body leak causing the high idle.

Do a boost leak test and check around the injector seals, intake manifold gasket, throttle body gasket for leaks.
 
Ok, ok sorry man. I guess I could have explained it a little better. I DID scan the car today and got a code for a bad o2 and said my MAF is bad...Imagine that! Im going to swap my buddies on and see what happens after that. I'll let you guys know, thanks for all the help!
 
Well you can also get the Code for MAF from having a Large Vac/Boost leak. There is 2 different MAF codes too I think.
a P0102 (MAF sensor circuit low input) and a P0103 (MAF sensor circuit High Input)

This would make the car run RICH which in turn trips the o2 sensor code.

If you have an air compressor try a boost leak test. Did you double check all of your couplers? I know its real easy to forget a loose clamp somewhere.

Which code did you get? p0102 or p0103?
 
did the car ever have an AFC installed before your recent endevor? if so did you re connect the cut wire for the MAF? this has bit me in the past
 
did the car ever have an AFC installed before your recent endevor? if so did you re connect the cut wire for the MAF? this has bit me in the past

p103 I believe...
whiteAWD, the car used to have one but im sure the "cut wire" was never fixed or whatever. when the tranny went the kid took the AFC out. Which wire and what do I do with it? I never heard of this. I have a AFC in my old 96gst and took it out, never changed a wire and it ran fine without it...:confused:
 
the wire that should have been cut at the ecu is the signal wire for the MAf, the AFC gets wired in between so the maf signal can be manipulated via the AFC. look at VFAQ.com and it will give you detailed instructions on wiring the AFC. then gain access to the ecu and the harness and look for the wire/wires where the AFC was spliced into. Your car is doing exactly what my friends did with that wire cut. :thumb:
 
the wire that should have been cut at the ecu is the signal wire for the MAf, the AFC gets wired in between so the maf signal can be manipulated via the AFC. look at VFAQ.com and it will give you detailed instructions on wiring the AFC. then gain access to the ecu and the harness and look for the wire/wires where the AFC was spliced into. Your car is doing exactly what my friends did with that wire cut. :thumb:

ok bro, im gonna try all this tomorrow. I hope its the problem. I know there are several wires tapped together on the ecu. The car has a VFAQ "shift kit" as well and I dont know what wires are for that. The car also has a alarm/remote start so Im sure some are for that but I have NO clue which are which. I'll try a few things. Worst comes to worst i'll be deleting both and re-doing almost the whole harness. thanks for the idea man!
 
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