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2G Throttle Body Shaft Seals

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geosok

Proven Member
116
7
Jan 12, 2017
Las Vegas, Nevada
Hey all, after finding my throttle body leaking air horribly I ran down the list of problems and came across the throttle body shaft seals being messed up. I ordered up a pair and they came in today and I just got done ruining both of them.

I followed the vfaq and other tutorials and proceeded to bend both the metal casings and subsequently destroyed the orings, I have no idea how I messed them up so horribly following the instructions but such is life. I'm just glad I didn't throw the hammer I had in my hand through my garage door, LOL.

So, instead of spending the $26 on the metal cased seals again (plus the insane next day air prices everyone charges) can I use these https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=24303&cat=0&page=1 or are these just the orings that go in the metal casings I screwed up beyond repair. I'm not running insane levels of boost if that matters and if these are an all rubber version that I can install without destroying that'd be awesome.

Also, is there a way to use hardware store orings instead? This seams like one of those items that you get charged a lot for when there is a $0.50 fix available if you know where to look.

Thanks for any advice.
 
Side note, does anyone know the oem part number for the shaft seals? I have been looking all over mitsubishi parts warehouse and other sites and can't find it. I thought I'd give the dealerships here in town a call and hopefully get lucky.

Thanks
 
Sounds like they were Mil Spec seals if they were metal. I freeze them and use a socket just the right size to tap them into the TB. Now and then I will ruin one also, it happens. Here are just the seals in Mil Spec
http://m.ebay.com/itm/STM-HP-THROTT...4-DSM-EVO-8-9-3000gt-/131776460940?nav=SEARCH

And regular seals are here
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Extreme-PSI-T...e-91-99-DSM-4G63-NEW-/141710596893?nav=SEARCH
So you should be able to call up STM or ExtremePSI and just get the seals if thats all you need. @snowborder714 would probabaly sell you just seals to, just PM him.
 
I've got some all rubber shaft seals coming, thank you Jesus, but I ordered a replacement set of the metal cased ones as well and after leaving them in the freezer all day they will not go in. Are the shafts seals sold on maperformance wrong somehow? They say evo 8/9 just like the mil.spec ones but they're from "works". They're the same ones I screwed up before but I figured that was me not the product.

Only reason I snagged them again is because I had a couple of other items I picked up as well and they look damn near identical. Any thoughts? Is it just user error again or is it the wrong part?

Luckily I stopped before I ruined them this time but they are just not budging using any trick I've read online so far.
 
Use the rubber cased ones. I use the chicago rawhide rubber seals. I am not sure at what point you actually need a metal cased seal. More pressure on the inside of the seal surface forces the lip to tighten against the shaft by design. Maybe after 30 psi they just turn inside out, but I highly doubt it. Maybe someone can speak on when the rubber seals actually give up?
 
I got in touch with snowborder and have the rubber seals on the way. I had already ordered up the second set of metal ones before so when they showed up I went to give them a whirl. I'm dumbfounded as to why something so simple is such a pain in the ass but I guess that happens a lot in life, LOL.

I'll keep trying to get the metal ones on until I break them and then put the all rubber on when they show up and get back to tuning and hopefully cruising. Only bonus to this debacle is that it's given me time to finish all the car audio work.

Thanks again peeps.
 
Good luck. TBH the rubber ones are even tricky if you arent extremely careful. Just take your time, make sure they are straight when they start, or pull it back out immediately, and try again. Lube them before you start, it will be messy and even harder to handle them, but it should ensure they go in without a problem if you finally get them going straight.

Alternatively, if you have a very steady hand and the right grinding disc at your disposal you could probably grind a tiny chamfer on the inner edge of the metal cased seals. This could help in getting them to start straight. Its such a small seal that you could easily ruin them, but if you cant get them in they are garbage anyway right?
 
Mil Spec seals are good past 40psi. The others (plastic/rubber) are somewhere lower than that. The TB I just put on last night I put metal Mil Spec's in since I run quite a bit of boost.
 
I just run the Chicago Rawhide ones on all my customer TB rebuilds; never had any issues with them over all the years (like 13 years of use). Heck, I have them on my race car on a regular 60mm 1g tb and they handle all the boost without issues.
 
Well, i'm not sure if it was divine intervention or perhaps the last ditch screw it if I break them mentality but I whacked an allen socket that was the perfect size to fit through the holes and line up with the edge of the seals with a hammer and the little bastards popped right in.

Tears of joy, angels singing, the whole nine yards. Of course, I still have to see if they're going to hold pressure but for now life is good.
 
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