2G 2g spark blow out.

[Mikesam]

Hi I am experiencing major spark blow out on my eagle talon tsi. While I was doing a pull, around 10psi when my water meth turns on I have major spark blow out. I had the same issue two months ago. So I tried replacing spark plugs, coil pack, and wires. But it turned out to be the module in the picture. Now I am having the same issue. I am wondering what is this module, is it common for them to fail. And should I buy another oem one or is there some upgraded part I should but instead?

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[We're on Boost]

Hi I am experiencing major spark blow out on my eagle talon tsi. While I was doing a pull, around 10psi when my water meth turns on I have major spark blow out. I had the same issue two months ago. So I tried replacing spark plugs, coil pack, and wires. But it turned out to be the module in the picture. Now I am having the same issue. I am wondering what is this module, is it common for them to fail. And should I buy another oem one or is there some upgraded part I should but instead?

It's the Power Transistor. Except that it looks like it has been de-mounted from the steel backing plate that it comes on originally.
If it is failing, that might actually be why. It should be screwed down to a nice flat metal plate like it is from the factory.
They do usually fail eventually but not every few months like you are describing.

The Mitsubishi part number for it is MD189747 and you could buy one from a Mitsu dealer like this:
https://www.mitsubishipartsnow.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-power-transistor-md189747

You could buy an aftermarket one from Rock Auto. They sell a WVE part, number WVE 6H1079:
2g ignition control module

Pick the button that says "Info" and you'll see some details about the part including 5 pretty good pictures and the Mitsu OEM part number.

WVE is generally a pretty good company although I haven't had any of their power transistors. I wouldn't be afraid to buy one.
But whichever one you get, I'd leave it mounted to the steel plate that it comes on.

Here's one of their pics of the WVE unit:

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[Mikesam]

Ok. The one in the picture was the first to fail. The one I put on the second time was a used one I had laying around. The second one to fail I had the oem backing plate on. Mabye it was just on its way out as well. But thanks for the help.

 

[We're on Boost]

I think I see it in your picture, post #13 in your build thread. Looks like the power transistor is de-mounted and then re-mounted with only one bolt to something on top of your intake manifold? That could be what is killing it. There should be a screw or bolt through both of the holes in the plastic housing so it is drawn down evenly to a flat metal plate underneath.
I had at one time a detached power transistor that was remounted with only 1 screw like that, to a flat aluminum plate. It didn't last very long. The crappy attachment might have been why, I don't know. Anyway I ended up relocating my power transistor to a nice comfortable spot in the cabin, under the center stack/radio area, and running all new wires to it, new connector, everything new. It's working great! That's kind of above and beyond, but if you want to look at that, here's the thread:

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/relocate-power-transistor-to-inside-cabin.536345/

 

[We're on Boost]

The second one to fail I had the oem backing plate on. Mabye it was just on its way out as well.

Oh I see. Well, a new one should be good, unless there is a problem with the coil or something else that is making life hard for it. If the coil is the correct one and it checks ok for resistances, a new power transistor should work out ok. I'd check the resistances of the coil pack before putting a new transistor on there.

 

[Mikesam]

Ok. Thanks for the help.

 

[Mikesam]

Update. So I tried using a different power translator that I got from a buddy and it it still didn't fix the issue. So I had a spare coil pack that I through it in and the cars runs perfectly.

 

[We're on Boost]

Update. So I tried using a different power translator that I got from a buddy and it it still didn't fix the issue. So I had a spare coil pack that I through it in and the cars runs perfectly.

Good!

 

[jdxnc]

Gap your plugs tighter.

 

[chrysler kid]

Make sure the engine ground strap behind the throttle body on the intake manifold is secured and clean to the firewall. Could be a bad ground killing coil components

 

[curt-s]

Update. So I tried using a different power translator that I got from a buddy and it it still didn't fix the issue. So I had a spare coil pack that I through it in and the cars runs perfectly.

So you had two bad coil packs?
That's... pretty rare. I'm wondering if you have other issues in the adjacent wiring.

Swap the last one back in after a week or two and see if the problem comes back. There are tests you can do on a pack but many problems only show up after they've heat soaked.

I wouldnt normally suggest this if it was just one bad, but two is few and far between. If the problem returns, check your wiring, grounds, and connectors.

Also how did you diagnose blowout?

 

[Mikesam]

I had only the one coil pack go bad. I thought it might be the power translator so I tried replacing that. It didn't work so I tried my spare coil pack and now the car runs good.

 

[Vegas Smith]

The PTUs don't like to get hot hence the connection to the metal heatsink.

 

[curt-s]

I had only the one coil pack go bad. I thought it might be the power translator so I tried replacing that. It didn't work so I tried my spare coil pack and now the car runs good.

Oh. Your first post said you replaced the coil pack, and now more recently you said you replaced it (presumably) again.
Even two months apart that's unusual.

The PTUs don't like to get hot hence the connection to the metal heatsink.

For years I've had mine one-bolt'ed to the IM either on the side or the back to keep it in minimal heat contact but I think for next year I might just relocate it inside the cabin on the firewall. I have never had an issue with this but a pinch of prevention..

 

[Mikesam]

I did swap the coil pack with my spare one when I had a issue the first time, but the problem ended up being the ptu so I put my original coil back on. The second time I had this issue it ended up being my original coil pack.

 

[curt-s]

Ahh, it's another episode of Fun With 20+ Year Old Electronics Constantly Exposed to High Heat.