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Resolved 2G Need help! Starts but runs 3-5 seconds then dies

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Dylan94

Proven Member
35
5
Sep 2, 2024
W, West Virginia
Ok here’s what’s going on. 99 GST. 1G head swap. Got the car with rod knock. Swapped a new bottom end on and put it all together. Starts but runs 3-5 seconds then dies. Miss on 2 and 4 after a few tries got it running. Came back 15-20 min later and again. Only ran for 3-5 seconds and would die. Then after a few ran fine but had a miss. I’ll add videos! Thanks!
 
Solution
Did you verify your plug wires are in the correct order?

Yikes, I would make that the next step. Prove it's correct or it's always a looming possibility. These cars *can* run when off a tooth, but not run well. If your tensioner failed or was installed improperly, you could be sitting on a ticking time bomb.
In your first video, I hear it fire and it immediately cranks slow, pops, and just sounds out of time IMO. The ticking your friend mentioned could very well be the tensioner I mentioned above.
I figured it out, the wires were out of order. Car runs perfect now.

The ticking was an unplugged connector smacking the block in the back. (Plug from A/C delete) thank you guys! Timing was correct

I did after this comment haha...
What mods does the car have?
What ECU is in use?
Any CELs?
What are you using for a cam sensor?
Is it another 2G bottom end?
 
Pics of your set up?

Have you verified your timing is correct?
Not that I’m aware of. I did not run the car at all since I have gotten it. When I got it, it had really bad rod knock so I let it sit in the driveway until I had all the parts to put the new bottom on it. It did start and die a couple times when I started it up to take it to the garage, but I just assumed that was from sitting for however, long because it only did it once or twice and then drove just fine. Also when I went back to watch the video , there was no miss in it
Make sure this isn't 180° out?

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I did not remove it from how it was. Also it’s not the flat sensor it’s the one that only has one 10MM bolt holding it so it can only go in one way. But I’m starting to think the cam sensor is the culprit

No video of it running? Do you have a datalogger? How did you verify mechanical timing?
I can post a video of it running give me a few. And I put the timing marks on the crank, oil pump (even tho I did balance shaft delete) and timing gear marks facing the middle with dowel pins on top.

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Are your plug wires routed correctly?
Oftentimes missing on two cylinders can be a bad PTU. Although I think that's typically 1/4 or 2/3 miss, not 2/4.
As others have said, check your mechanical timing. Remove the timing belt covers, align the crank marks, then look at your cam timing marks. Show us pictures if you can.
 
Are your plug wires routed correctly?
Oftentimes missing on two cylinders can be a bad PTU. Although I think that's typically 1/4 or 2/3 miss, not 2/4.
As others have said, check your mechanical timing. Remove the timing belt covers, align the crank marks, then look at your cam timing marks. Show us pictures if you can.
I can’t get back to the crank mark without taking it all apart so that’ll be my last step. I’m 99.99% sure the timing isn’t the problem
 
Did you verify your plug wires are in the correct order?
I can’t get back to the crank mark without taking it all apart so that’ll be my last step. I’m 99.99% sure the timing isn’t the problem
Yikes, I would make that the next step. Prove it's correct or it's always a looming possibility. These cars *can* run when off a tooth, but not run well. If your tensioner failed or was installed improperly, you could be sitting on a ticking time bomb.
In your first video, I hear it fire and it immediately cranks slow, pops, and just sounds out of time IMO. The ticking your friend mentioned could very well be the tensioner I mentioned above.
 
Did you verify your plug wires are in the correct order?

Yikes, I would make that the next step. Prove it's correct or it's always a looming possibility. These cars *can* run when off a tooth, but not run well. If your tensioner failed or was installed improperly, you could be sitting on a ticking time bomb.
In your first video, I hear it fire and it immediately cranks slow, pops, and just sounds out of time IMO. The ticking your friend mentioned could very well be the tensioner I mentioned above.
I figured it out, the wires were out of order. Car runs perfect now.

The ticking was an unplugged connector smacking the block in the back. (Plug from A/C delete) thank you guys! Timing was correct

I did after this comment haha. That was the issue and now I feel like a dumb ass. I guess a month long swap can take its toll on the common sense.
 
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