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2g head on a 1g block

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wow yea id say, nice numbers

any port work on the 2g head?
I have a buddy who swapped from 2g to a 1g head, and im thinking pretty hard about grabbing it from him.

There's just a little port work on the head. The ports were smoothed and blended with the valve seats, and the combustion chambers were smoothed.
Now's the time to pick up 2G heads cheap. Do it now before it catches on. Just make sure you pair it with a good intake manifold, not the stock 2G mani.

I'd also like to thank Kiggly for posting his results and solid tech info. He's really shed some light on building a great head. And I really like his Beehive springs. :hellyeah:
 
Evo 10s? Show us a comparison to see the similarity of head port design?

Are you saying evo 10 ports are as big as 1g ports? Because their relative oval ports aren't no where near as similar 1g horrible square ports.

4B11 port entry is great and size is well just refined for what it equipped with.
 
Did anyone ever get any further info on this? It's funny how the times change. Now everyone wants a 2g head.... even the people that were saying a 1g head is superior.

Flow bench numbers mean nothing as they are static flow numbers not taking into account pressure waves that a running motor creates.
 
Waveforms may not be concerned about port shape. Moreso about length and average width. Static flow likes port shape.

. . .Regardless, Marco (Magnus motorsports) likes the 1g head for his dsm cast manifold of beauty. He talks about volume being a substantial issue when making big power. . . You can see some bits of his insite on his thread introducing that manifold to the market on the vendor announcement forum.

. . .Just goes to show, it's a collective experience of the system and path you've chosen that nets a postive result. Some choose the small ports and some choose the large. The winners know how to take advantage of their choice.
 
^^100% agree. Neither head/intake manifold will benefit from an improperly matched setup.
 
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i recently did a head swap, i had a 1g head port and polished with stock everything on a 6bolt block and now i switched to a 2g head that is ported, polished and ti springs and retainers with the same cams from the 1g head (1990) , everything stayed the same,i kept the turbo(20g), 1g intake/exhaust mani, TB and cams, i do feel a difference. i feel a nice fast pull once i start spooling,its alot quicker spool then the 1g i even have the same tune.
 
It's funny how that works. They say a lot of what made the 1g head "feel" faster was the more aggressive cams that came in the 1g head, and not a result of the intake port.
 
If we are talking about ultimate power production look at the ports on this top fuel dragster head, extremely large. Someone needs to tell them they need a smaller port for more velocity.
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If we are talking about ultimate power production look at the ports on this top fuel dragster head, extremely large. Someone needs to tell them they need a smaller port for more velocity.
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The supercharger on that engine takes more power to run than 99% of us will ever make. Not a very good comparison. Although at 8000+hp, that probably is a high velocity port.
 

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I'd go with the 2G head, and have it ported to exactly what you want. A 2G head is better off the bat only because you have so much casting to remove the way you want it removed. Make sure you get it fitted for the larger 1g headstuds, and use the right CAS.

What do you do to get the 1g CAS system to work with a 7 bolt head?
 
I currently run the setup of a 6bolt block and a 2g head, AND LOVE IT. You cannont tell the difference between the two, and if your that worried about it, the 2g head has more meat to be ported on it. The only thing to remember is, a 2g head needs the head bold holes reemed out by 1mm in order to fit 6 bolt head studs. This combo with ARPs forged internals and a stock 2g head has made me very happy. Alot of people on here are will disagree with me, but thats okay too! 2g Heads are where its at!
I'm currently doing the same setup, but what I'm having trouble with is running the water lines. What would be the best way to do this? Do you have any diagrams on how to run the set up and can I still use the 2g CAS or do I need to use the 1g?
 
A 1G head means you also need a 1G thermostat housing and water pipe. As there are three different versions of each (non-turbo, 1990 turbo, and 1991-1994 turbo), we need more information to help or suggest the right parts for your setup.

1) Are you planning to use an oil cooler?
1a) If yes, water cooled or air cooled?
2) Are you planning to water cool your turbo?


If yes and water cooled to 1 and yes to 2, use 1991-1994 turbo parts. Also requires the oil filter housing has a water cooler.

If yes and air cooled to 1 and no to 2, use non-turbo water pipe and thermostat housing with a 1990 oil filter housing.

If no to 1 and yes to 2, use 1990 turbo thermostat housing and water pipe. Unlike above the oil filter housing can be any version here with appropriate ports going unused or blocked off.

If no to 1 and 2, use non-turbo thermostat and water pipe. Oil filter housing can be any variety with appropriate ports going unused or blocked off.


For the CAS, you can use the 2G if you have balance shafts removed and use a Kiggly 6-bolt in a 2G crank sensor. If not, then you need to use the 1G CAS.
 
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