Resolved 2G Engine block coolant drain bolt location

[VBR_DSM]

I’ve searched many threads but haven’t been able to find a definitive answer to this - where is the exact location of the engine block coolant drain bolt on a 2g 4g63 engine?

I only found vague answers pointing to the back of the block on the passenger side under the intake manifold. Anybody have a diagram or picture of the drain bolt location?

I need to flush out rusty coolant from my 95 Talon AWD engine block because the previous owner had tap water in the system and let it sit for a couple of years. The car is not running due to a bad fuel pump and dirty fuel tank. I need to drop the gas tank to clean out the old gas, it goes without saying that it will take me a while to get it running and I don’t want the dirty water to continue to sit in the system.

My plan is to drain the rusty water at the engine coolant drain bolt. Then filling up the system with distilled water. Drain again, repeat a few times and finally fill it with coolant. Let me know if you have other ideas. I’ve removed and flushes the radiator separately, so focusing on the block at this point.

 

[petrosian]

According to the factory manual, only the 420A (non-turbo) and the 2.4L have "actual" coolant drain plugs. For the 4G63T it says to disconnect a hose from the water pipe for drainage, however, it does have a spot where the turbo coolant line taps in that is lower than anything else: See this thread

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[19Eclipse90]

To add, the plug in the 2.4L is in the same spot on that block as the joint in the 2.0L turbo block for the turbo coolant feed - under the exhaust manifold near the transmission.

So it could just as well be considered “the drain”, it’s just not plugged to start, like the 2.4L.

 

[VBR_DSM]

I think that’s going to be my spot! Thanks guys!

Any ideas on how to pressurize the coolant in block? It would be nice to pressurize it enough to have water come up and exit at the head too but the water pump inlet pipe is lower than the head so all the water will go down first. Not sure if water will make it all the way up to the head.

 

[DSMPT]

If your engine is 2g 4g63 then you can use the coolant feed for turbo that @19Eclipse90 Brian mentioned above.
But since the car hasn't run for long and got rusty, if I were you, I would consider to replace the freeze plugs (It's PITA especially if the engine is still in the car) and water pump, too.
And if replacing the water pump and don't care to make mess around the engine, remove the water pump and thermostat housing (or thermostat), run the water by garden hose from the thermostat housing port on the head to push out the rusty coolant in the block. The water pump port is the largest and lowest coolant port on the block. If you would also plan to replace the freeze plugs, it would be easier to wash off the remaining rusty coolant. And once the engine is running, flush again by using distilled water.

 

[VBR_DSM]

I think for now I’ll use the coolant feed for the turbo to drain and flush the system enough to get it running. I’ll do a proper flush and new radiator once it runs. On top of that, I’m planning to replace the timing/accessories belts, water pump, pulleys, etc. once it’s running to get the engine to a nice healthy baseline state.

 

[VBR_DSM]

To add, the plug in the 2.4L is in the same spot on that block as the joint in the 2.0L turbo block for the turbo coolant feed - under the exhaust manifold near the transmission.

So it could just as well be considered “the drain”, it’s just not plugged to start, like the 2.4L.

Update on this - this spot definitely worked for draining the coolant from the block. However, instead of removing the banjo bolt, which is pretty difficult to do since it’s behind the exhaust manifold, I ended up just draining it from the hose connected to it. It was way more accessible and it was convenient to connect/disconnect it from the line when flushing over and over again Hope this helps someone in the same pickle in the future!

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