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ECMlink 2G DSMLink V3. No start help!

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Abdo4GST

10+ Year Contributor
33
1
Aug 31, 2010
Murfreesboro, Tennessee
I'm having a very similar problem. Had my car tuned late 2011 on SD, only upgrades were 750cc and a 20G on 12lbs. Ran great until my ecu blew from an electrical fault. Plugged in my stock ecu car started and died accordingly. Just plugged in another 95 EPROM Link v3, can't find the tune but used another and stock tune that worked before and can't get the car to start.
 
Haha I just switched to the stock 97 ECU again just to know it's not a mechanical issue and the car started just fine, obviously didn't idle well.

Here's the datalog file. Any help would be awesome!

I forgot to add that I tried copying the stock files and adjust injectors/speed density settings accordingly. However, when I hit "copy all to ecu" I received an error saying it's not compatible with my current ecu. It was the 2G stock settings, all I can think was that the current program doesn't support the 3.19 firmware files?
 
That's just an older tune I had with the car first running, I know the tune is terrible I just know that the car started and ran with it. I changed those settings, I'm just frustrated trying to get this thing to start. It's trying, sounds like it wants to start, just won't. Any other ideas? LOL
 
I have a 97 GS-T with 6 bolt swap. Running 2G DSMLink v3 and speed density. Had a great tune and drove awesome everyday until the ecu was blown by swapping battery cables. It was only the ECU, when I switched to the stock ecu it starts right up but dies instantly (obviously). I just got another 2G v3 ecu, and used a previous tune which isn't great, but it did run on before. I've tried everything, and cannot get it to start. We know because of the stock ecu that it has spark, fuel, and everything else operating properly. I've been trying to fix this for 2 days now, any help would be great. Thanks!

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=154214&d=1364618623

That is my log file, I uploaded it in another thread so I'm not sure how else to display it here.
 
Have you checked all fuses since you blew the ecu or even the wires incase you melted one! I was going to suggest plug wores but you already had link so you already know that haha
 
1. Yes, and if my stock ecu still starts the car, then that question is already eliminated LOL.

2. My plug wires were already swapped (I think), but the option is already checked in link. I'm going to make sure they are swapped correctly here shortly.
 
Well I suggested fuses as you said you swapped to a stock ecu but it dies instantly but that might not he down to the mods but something is not right! Its just a guess and something you should first check if you blew your ecu as they normally dont blow unless you blew a fuse linked to the same power source! So just check as one might be bad but if not then you can rule that out all together
 
Well I suggested fuses as you said you swapped to a stock ecu but it dies instantly but that might not he down to the mods but something is not right! Its just a guess and something you should first check if you blew your ecu as they normally dont blow unless you blew a fuse linked to the same power source! So just check as one might be bad but if not then you can rule that out all together

I will check again, I checked most of the common ones last night such as alt, engine, etc.. and they looked good. When I blew the ecu the alt and engine fuse blew, already replaced both of those though. I'm going to double check plug wires too.. Thanks for the input.
 
I would start by putting your SD table back to stock. That thing is WAY out of whack. Use the one attached.

Make sure your firmware and software are both running the latest versions.

Thank you very much for the table, after I swapped the plug wires correctly the car fired right up. It then would barely idle, I changed the table and it idled very smooth. My coolant temp is working on link but not on the gauge cluster, and my oil pressure gauge isn't working for some reason. My cd player and fan switch isn't working either, so I need to get those working before I continue tuning. The car seems to idle fantastic though, sounds great. Here is my hot start datalog after getting some bugs fixed.

Since the car has sat for about a year, but idles this good. How do you recommend I go about any maintenance? I had pretty much everything new before, so I'm not sure if there is anything I should do.
 
Read through the sticky threads, do everything you need to to get the idle dialed in, then post back.
ECMlink Tuning & Log File Advice - DSM Forums

Uploaded recent log. I accidentally forgot to save the entire log from cold start to here, but I believe I fixed cold start by adjusting values in coolanttempadj. What's frustrating me now is that my ISCPosition is still off, even though the car seems to idle very well, just slightly high. My combinedFT seems way off, and my entire speed density table seems that it needs to be much richer than it should to run correctly.

I looked back at a thread I started when I first got the car back in 2010, and clearly had no idea what I was doing. In the thread Gofer kept mentioning that I needed to connect the front o2 wire in the ecu regardless. Currently I wired the rear o2 ECU side to the wideband, and logged accordingly in link. I have front o2 as stock/none, with nothing wired to the front o2 on ECU. Honestly I don't think I have a front o2 or I would have wired already. I will double check on that today, but if I'm using the rear o2/wideband function, do I still have to have the front o2 wired correctly in ecu for everything to work properly?
 
The front o2 is the only sensor that reads closed loop so you should have it in yes, either that or run your wideband o2 and use it in narrowband aswell as logging wb readings,
 
I will try the hammer, but the ISC is in the 90s on cold start, it's just 0 when warmed up.

The front o2 is the only sensor that reads closed loop so you should have it in yes, either that or run your wideband o2 and use it in narrowband aswell as logging wb readings,

My wideband is already used as narrowband sim and registered to the rear o2 in link, do I still need to move it all to the front or does it matter?
 
I will try the hammer, but the ISC is in the 90s on cold start, it's just 0 when warmed up.



My wideband is already used as narrowband sim and registered to the rear o2 in link, do I still need to move it all to the front or does it matter?

Yes move it to the front as the rear was only there for cat operation! The front is what it needs to see as it can also do the adjustments faster. Im shocked your car is even running without a front o2 sensor. Get one put in or move your wd to simulate nb and also use it as a wideband then you should find it will be a heck of alot better for you.

en my front o2 sensor blew it ran like crap so I am shocked yours is running without one at all
 
Yes move it to the front as the rear was only there for cat operation! The front is what it needs to see as it can also do the adjustments faster. Im shocked your car is even running without a front o2 sensor. Get one put in or move your wd to simulate nb and also use it as a wideband then you should find it will be a heck of alot better for you.

en my front o2 sensor blew it ran like crap so I am shocked yours is running without one at all

Have an idea what wires are different from the wideband? Proper way would be to hook up the .5 to the rear o2 on ecu, and the which wire to the front? Assuming I don't have a front o2.
 
Rear o2 wired to wideband, front o2 isn't wired at all but doesn't need to be since I'm simulating narrowband with the rear o2.

I would upload datalog, but I don't have enough room and don't have anything to delete. My combined ft is jumping from 0-5% at idle, just seems like my table is too rich although its running much better like this.
 
Small warm idle clip like requested.

Friday: I called RC for my specific injector voltage settings and used those instead of the global fuel setting. Reset SD table again.

Today: Tweaked coolanttempadj and SD idle values in the table. Hoping that idle clip will give people a little more information on how everything should be adjusted as of now before I start driving around.

Question: After dialing in the correct injector settings, etc.. Should the stock SD table NEED to be adjusted for your car to idle/drive normally (not boosting), or should you be able to drive just fine on the stock table? Only asking because I find that even after those correct adjustments, I have to adjust the table much richer to be able to idle properly and drive without leaning out even in low rpm cruise.
 

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Set the injbattery volts to RC specs, called them and dialed them in.

I set deadtime to 0 according to dsmlink tutorial.

I kept -40.6% global setting and the car won't even idle its so lean on the WB.

I have to set global to 0% just to idle and keep my A/F ratio. I don't understand why it's not giving me the proper fuel. I have to get this fixed before I do anything else. I posted 2 logs to show the idle change on the global fuel setting. Someone please help!
 

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Why is your VE table jacked up so high? Having 70% VE at idle is just crazy! That should be down around 40-50%.

I know man that's the only way I can get it to idle around 15.5 A/F. Stock values won't even let idle. But even with that setting it won't idle at all with -40% global.. I don't get it.

This is with the stock table, -40.6 global, 0 deadtime and the injector settings from RC.
 

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when people refer to x amount of Deadtime or 180 Deadtime this is the amount that is applied on top of the Stock amount of 690(for a 2g)...

Looking at the DT values it looks like you have it set in DA as just 180 as I said you need to add that to the stock amount of deadtime.

Reset your VE map to stock Make the proper adjustments to the Deadtime and Change your global to about -18% or for the Fuel pressure you are running and that would be a good start.

Lastly I wonder if that AEM gauge is reading right? Even if it is you have the Wrong Switching point is set for what that gauge reads as 14.7... .
 

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My wideband shows 15.5-16.* at idle when the value on link shows high 13- low 14.

My global was set to -40.6% as calculated for 43.5 and 750cc. ECMTuning wiki says to keep the deadtime tab 0 when you make your own adjustments in DA table. So you're saying 180 (14V DA) + 690 = 870 and how do I input that adjustment? I'm a beginner LOL
 
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