2g awd trans pull out

[billk1]

Can some one answer this question, when pulling out a 1995 gsx 5-speed awd trans, it looks like the lower control arm frame is in the way of the trans when the trans starts coming away from the block, how do I clear it with the engine stll in the car

 

[westcoast]

Can you take a photo and post it here? I assume your removing the transmission through the bottom of the car so the only thing in the way should be the crossmember.

Your control arm shouldn't be an issue unless you neglected to remove the axles?

 

[jjrock5]

I agree with this guy ^

 

[billk1]

Yes it is coming out the bottom with engine still in , there is NO WAY the trans will just come out like most, it has to move several inches away from motor to drop down but lower control arm frame is only 1 to 2 inches next to trans so trans will hit lower control arm frame before it totally disengages from throw out bearing, am I missing something?

 

[1badpurple]

Isn't the thing it is hitting a removable bracket?

 

[pboglio]

Place scissor jack between engine block and firewall, adjust until motor is pushed 2 inches further away, then start lowering engine using the jack you should have been using to hold the motor up. This will clear the front subframe which is typically what gets in the way. Same procedure going back in. Works for me.

 

[dsmjunkie97]

Once the transmission is pulled away a bit from the engine and off the dowl pins, you can rotate the transmission enough to clear the diff housing away from the subframe.

 

[jjrock5]

Place scissor jack between engine block and firewall, adjust until motor is pushed 2 inches further away, then start lowering engine using the jack you should have been using to hold the motor up. This will clear the front subframe which is typically what gets in the way. Same procedure going back in. Works for me.

Interesting idea. How the heck do you get a scissor jack in there though?

 

[billk1]

Once the transmission is pulled away a bit from the engine and off the dowl pins, you can rotate the transmission enough to clear the diff housing away from the subframe.

I havent tried this one but it might work , It seems like it would be kinda hard to rotate that heavy trans without a jack or if its on a jack it would be awkward,when your doing it this way, what mounts are loose or removed other then trans mount

 

[pboglio]

It works, I use it along with a tranny jack as well. The tranny jack helps to allow the tranny to angle down or up into position once clear of the clutch input shaft spline and block dowels for those of us not wanting to bench press it in or out, which I've tried.

Another trick for reinstallation is once the tranny input shaft is aligned with the clutch splines and the dowels are all aligned, I typically "donkey kick" the tranny home onto the engine block. Stupid, but finessing it on has never worked for me. A ratcheting tie down strap wrapped around the tranny case and another engine hard point would probably work better, maybe I go that route next time. Every person has their own methods.

 

[DSMDirkah]

Another trick for reinstallation is once the tranny input shaft is aligned with the clutch splines and the dowels are all aligned, I typically "donkey kick" the tranny home onto the engine block. Stupid, but finessing it on has never worked for me. A ratcheting tie down strap wrapped around the tranny case and another engine hard point would probably work better, maybe I go that route next time. Every person has their own methods.

@ "Donkey kick". I think that's funny because that's exactly what I do. I had some buddies look at me when I was doing it like I was crazy but it got it in there .

 

[dsmjunkie97]

The Donkey Kick is a definite unapproved method for DSM's . Works on many things. I just do the old fashion bench press method anymore with a friend under the hood helping from the top.

 

[billk1]

Got the donkey kick but what mounts are loose or removed

 

[pboglio]

Couple of tips to make things go fast. I typically get the car on jack stands as high as I can get it. This makes rolling the tranny out from under the car a breeze if the steering knuckle is still in position. Not trusting my life to jack stands, I use wheel ramps on the rears, jack stands on full high up front, and 2 wheels stacked under each door jam on either side of the car. If you have an earthquake and your under the car, you'll still survive.

I typically only remove the front laterel lower arm to allow me to drop the passenger axle thru the bottom of the damper fork. The steering knuckle then can swing away enough to pull the axle out of it, removing the wheel hub first makes this easier of course. I prefer to remove the driver's side axle as well. This basically means the lateral arm and wheel hubs are really the only suspension pieces completely removed and makes for a fast reassembly. In addition, I drop the downpipe, but leave the full exhaust after the cat in place. The transfer case can be unbolted and pulled away from the drive shaft input spline, while supporting the front of the driveshaft with jack stand. I can't recall if I did that or just
unbolted the driveshaft from the rear differential first before pulling the driveshaft away, then removing the transfer case.
Either way you don't want to completely drop the driveshaft as its a pain to reinstall.

I support the entire engine on the oil pan with a hydraulic jack and a piece of 2x4 wood, which is not the recommended way but it is what it is. Better method is to support the engine using a top crossbar style engine support that mounts on the engine lift hooks and inside fenders. Or you can simply use an engine hoist but this may eat up valuable spacer underneath the car. This'll help avoid smashing the oil pan and affecting the oil feed pickup inside the oilpan. Obviously this is all done before you remove any of the mounts.

I remove the front and rear roll stoppers, or engine mounts. Also remove the transmission mount (i.e. passenger side mount). I then only loosen the drivers side mount but leave the cross bolt in place. I do this as I'd rather pivot the motor on something rather than attempt to levitate it solely on the jack. Also because then if the jack fails the harmonic balancer will kiss off the drivers side strut tower and still hold the motor up in the air, if the drivers side mount is still attached of course. The jack(s) also help when attempting to line up the rear motor mount thru bolt as that is a bi*** to get the bolt thru. Finally, you'll need to bleed the clutch-line once installed as it will have filled with air upon initial removal.

Lots of little tricks and if done right can be done in several hours by the speed freaks out there. The rally mechanics typically can do it in 30 minutes. Alot of my time is spent lifting the car up in the air, then about 1 day of disassembly, then maybe 1 day to clean and prep/paint stuff, then 1 day to reassemble and drop the car. Dropping the car off the front jacks is probably the most dangerous if not done correctly.

Having a scissors style tranny jack, high lifting hydraulic jack, slide hammer kit for the wheel hub removal, set of pry bars, etc. makes life a whole lot easier.

 

[billk1]

Couple of tips to make things go fast. I typically get the car on jack stands as high as I can get it. This makes rolling the tranny out from under the car a breeze if the steering knuckle is still in position. Not trusting my life to jack stands, I use wheel ramps on the rears, jack stands on full high up front, and 2 wheels stacked under each door jam on either side of the car. If you have an earthquake and your under the car, you'll still survive.

I typically only remove the front laterel lower arm to allow me to drop the passenger axle thru the bottom of the damper fork. The steering knuckle then can swing away enough to pull the axle out of it, removing the wheel hub first makes this easier of course. I prefer to remove the driver's side axle as well. This basically means the lateral arm and wheel hubs are really the only suspension pieces completely removed and makes for a fast reassembly. In addition, I drop the downpipe, but leave the full exhaust after the cat in place. The transfer case can be unbolted and pulled away from the drive shaft input spline, while supporting the front of the driveshaft with jack stand. I can't recall if I did that or just
unbolted the driveshaft from the rear differential first before pulling the driveshaft away, then removing the transfer case.
Either way you don't want to completely drop the driveshaft as its a pain to reinstall.

I support the entire engine on the oil pan with a hydraulic jack and a piece of 2x4 wood, which is not the recommended way but it is what it is. Better method is to support the engine using a top crossbar style engine support that mounts on the engine lift hooks and inside fenders. Or you can simply use an engine hoist but this may eat up valuable spacer underneath the car. This'll help avoid smashing the oil pan and affecting the oil feed pickup inside the oilpan. Obviously this is all done before you remove any of the mounts.

I remove the front and rear roll stoppers, or engine mounts. Also remove the transmission mount (i.e. passenger side mount). I then only loosen the drivers side mount but leave the cross bolt in place. I do this as I'd rather pivot the motor on something rather than attempt to levitate it solely on the jack. Also because then if the jack fails the harmonic balancer will kiss off the drivers side strut tower and still hold the motor up in the air, if the drivers side mount is still attached of course. The jack(s) also help when attempting to line up the rear motor mount thru bolt as that is a bi*** to get the bolt thru. Finally, you'll need to bleed the clutch-line once installed as it will have filled with air upon initial removal.

Lots of little tricks and if done right can be done in several hours by the speed freaks out there. The rally mechanics typically can do it in 30 minutes. Alot of my time is spent lifting the car up in the air, then about 1 day of disassembly, then maybe 1 day to clean and prep/paint stuff, then 1 day to reassemble and drop the car. Dropping the car off the front jacks is probably the most dangerous if not done correctly.

Having a scissors style tranny jack, high lifting hydraulic jack, slide hammer kit for the wheel hub removal, set of pry bars, etc. makes life a whole lot easier.

Great info thanks a lot, when you remove rear stopper, do you remove the one mounted to the trans and or the on mounted on firewall subframe?

 

[pboglio]

You need to unbolt the rear roller stopper trans mount bracket first, otherwise it will never allow the tranny to come out, but first pull the speedo gear. Reverse is true, you bolt that bracket back in at the end when the tranny is already back in the car.