gst_man
10+ Year Contributor
- 43
- 0
- Jan 11, 2010
-
Wichtia,
Kansas
I recently purchased a 1998 automatic GS-T, that I am trying to swap a 6-bolt motor in. The main reason I'm doing the 6-bolt swap is for reliability (I don't want to have to deal with crank walk), and because a buddy of mine sold me a JDM 6-bolt long block for a good deal. I'm just trying to make it a reliable daily driver, not looking for any speed here. Now I did some research on the different ways to do this, and have found some write ups that have helped out quite a bit so far. But I keep running into issues, that either aren't mentioned in these write ups, or that seem to be a little different in reality. These are the issues/questions I have so far.
1. The only way that I can find how attach the 2g stall converter (auto tranny) to the 6-bolt crank (with out messing up the transmission) is with a $320 adapter from Kiggly Racing, if this is my only option that's okay, it just seems kind of expensive to me. If there is anyone who has found a less expensive (and safe) way to do this, that would be great.
2. It specifically says in a write up, that I ran across, that the 2g intake manifold will bolt up to the 1g head, if you don't mind the power loss from the different sized ports. However, when I lined the manifold up, it barely covers the ports all the way, and it seems like there wouldn't be enough gasket material to prevent a leak, does anyone have any experience with installing a 2g manifold on a 1g head, or should I just sell mine and find a 1g manifold?
3. I read somewhere that I need to swap the oil pan to a 7-bolt oil pan. Is there a clearance issue with the cross member on a FWD, or is only an issue with an AWD?
4. Has anyone done this swap without swapping to the 7-bolt oil pump and hydrolic tensioner and tensioner arm? I ask because I see that the way that you are supposed to use a long bolt to release tension from the timing belt will not work because the 2g motor mount's hole for the tension-releasing bolt does not line up with the old tensioner arm. I read that you have to release the tension manually when you install the timing belt, that sounds like it would be a huge pain, has any one had any experience with doing this, if so, how did you go about doing that?
5. The oil filter housing two fittings on it for an oil cooler, do I need to find an oil cooler? Or can I bolt on a 7-bolt oil filter housing and run coolant lines to the cooler around where the oil filter seats?
6. Is there anyone who has had experience with this swap, who has any more tips or problems that they ran across?
I have searched for these answers, but I can't seem to find anything that answers these specific questions.
Sorry for the length, I usually try to figure these things out myself, but I sort of reached a breaking point and was beginning to feel a little overwhelmed. Thank you for your time.
1. The only way that I can find how attach the 2g stall converter (auto tranny) to the 6-bolt crank (with out messing up the transmission) is with a $320 adapter from Kiggly Racing, if this is my only option that's okay, it just seems kind of expensive to me. If there is anyone who has found a less expensive (and safe) way to do this, that would be great.
2. It specifically says in a write up, that I ran across, that the 2g intake manifold will bolt up to the 1g head, if you don't mind the power loss from the different sized ports. However, when I lined the manifold up, it barely covers the ports all the way, and it seems like there wouldn't be enough gasket material to prevent a leak, does anyone have any experience with installing a 2g manifold on a 1g head, or should I just sell mine and find a 1g manifold?
3. I read somewhere that I need to swap the oil pan to a 7-bolt oil pan. Is there a clearance issue with the cross member on a FWD, or is only an issue with an AWD?
4. Has anyone done this swap without swapping to the 7-bolt oil pump and hydrolic tensioner and tensioner arm? I ask because I see that the way that you are supposed to use a long bolt to release tension from the timing belt will not work because the 2g motor mount's hole for the tension-releasing bolt does not line up with the old tensioner arm. I read that you have to release the tension manually when you install the timing belt, that sounds like it would be a huge pain, has any one had any experience with doing this, if so, how did you go about doing that?
5. The oil filter housing two fittings on it for an oil cooler, do I need to find an oil cooler? Or can I bolt on a 7-bolt oil filter housing and run coolant lines to the cooler around where the oil filter seats?
6. Is there anyone who has had experience with this swap, who has any more tips or problems that they ran across?
I have searched for these answers, but I can't seem to find anything that answers these specific questions.
Sorry for the length, I usually try to figure these things out myself, but I sort of reached a breaking point and was beginning to feel a little overwhelmed. Thank you for your time.
... and the motor mount. the 7 bolt tensioner worked perfectly for me. as far as oil pump.. i used a 6 bolt front case with a 6 bolt ofh and oil pan... i dont think the oil pan would be a problem.. my car is awd but then again i switched to the 6 bolt pan.. i wish i could help more but people do fail to mention a bunch of information when writing up swaps.. but then again you have to be grateful for the write ups.. they are quite handy!
Pics could help.
. Thanks DSM Tuners for all your help!
