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274 cams.... are they going to be a better chose than fp2?

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bsbllfit7

10+ Year Contributor
1,104
3
Feb 17, 2009
Salem, Oregon
As the title states i am wondering if the graveyard 274 cams would show a difference over fp2 cams. I am running a 2.4 stroker and am looking to see which one would perform better with my engine size. Im not wanting to go all out and have to build the head as well as this is mostly a street driven car. I have heard good and bad things about the 274 cams through my searching but haven't found anyone with a stroker setup. I don't know how to compare specs of cams so i am wondering if anyone could lay it out for me?? Thanks in advance.
 
All I know is you will have to go 280. Because 280 on a 2.4 is like a 272 on a 2.0
 
Ive heard both sides of that argument and have also been told that for a mild build and a mid sized turbo (fp green) that 272's would do. Redline on a stroker is only 7500 MAX and I've heard that 272s can deliver a good power curve with that sized engine. Obviously 280s would be better but this is a street engine and I'm just looking for less of that drop off that the stock cams are giving me.
 
The kelford 272s would walk all over any type of regrind. My car runs the Kelford 272s now and in my last engine I went with the 275 regrind. Its seriously a "you get what you pay for" type situation. The bad part about the regrinds is the limit of the lift that they can work into the stock profile. Seriously a set of 110 dollar manley springs would allow you to run any of the slightly more aggressive cams up to a stroker rev limit.

The fp2's are, for the most part, comp cam renames. They are machined from a billet stock and of high quality.

The max lift on a fp2 is 10.4mm of lift.

The max lift on the 27x regrinds seems to come at 10.3mm of lift on the intake which is the same as the hks 272s

Max lift on bone stock cams are 9.2mm of lift.

Kelford 272s are 11mm of lift.

This is why the kelfords are in a league of there own. The delta 272s are HKS copies. Have you ever wondered why they have to use a billet stock to make copies of the kelford 272s. There just isn't enough material in the stock cam lobe to make an aggressive profile like the kelfords. If you want to do it right and the first time spend the extra coin and at least get a set of manley springs and the k272s from delta.
 
so to run kelford 272s i must have better springs?? Just trying to figure this out. If i can get away with stock springs i will but if i have to use them and the kelfords will be that much better i may need to look into doing this. I just don't want to have to rip the head off and i believe i have to do get the springs in there.
 
Flat out you will be foolish to run the agressive cams (Kelford or clones) with out good springs, kiggley or Ferrea behives.

I am not going to say it can not be done, but at best it is hit and miss.
Some have done it, and others tried and failed.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341209-4g63t-valve-spring-info.html

Read post #10
then read the story to that post, link at top of post 10
 
Not dis-agreeing with any of those who suggested you buy the Kelfords which are an awesome camshaft. I have been running the graveyard 274's on my 2.0 for almost a year now. They are agressive for the 2.0 in my eyes down in the lower rpm's. Now on a stroker motor I believe they would be awesome just because the lack of torque on the 2.0 compared to a stroker motor. They really aren't bad cam's and have an awesome power band. So for the price not bad overall but the Kelfords to prove to be a better performing cam by statistics.
 
There is a way to do it. I had friends get a air hose and put it through the sparkplug hole and blow air in the cylinder enough to keep the valve up while there is no spring and replace it
 
found this on a website and wondering how well it would work.....


Another trick that works just as well, but requires more finesse and time is to use a rope. Yes you heard me correctly, I said a rope. You want to use the soft wax covered ropes often used for rock climbing. Then do the following:

1. Locate the cylinder you plan to work on

2. Lower the cylinder half way down

3. Feed the rope down into the spark plug hole while giving it a little turning motion with your hand. The idea is to get the rope to coil like a snake and fill the cylinder area.

4. Start to bring the cylinder up until you feel the rope compress against the roof of the combustion chamber.

5. Have a friend hold or wedge something to hold the crank while you compress out the valves. With the nice, soft rope you can compress the valves and remove the valve spring clips out of the retainer without doing damage.
 
I have ran a set of manley springs with titanium retainers on my old DD stroker engine 12k miles and then dropped them into my new talon. I rev that stroker to 8k and almost hitting the limiter as I go through the traps. Never had any indication of float. The manleys seem to do just fine for the 8k rev limit.
 
Dang i thought you didn't want to rev higher than 7500 on stroker motors. And this has kind of changed my opinion on cams, i may just pull the head and build the head. Everything else is built so why stop there.
 
Yes I would build the head if I was in your position. I ran the 274 cams with BC spring and titanium retainer and I revved out to 9k and never had an issue with valve float. Im not suggesting buying the BC because some have problems with them but for me I havent had any problems. Manley springs are a great spring.
 
Yes sorry that is on a 2.0 but still stating that the springs could take the 274 cams. I actually just swapped out the 274's for the fp2 cams because of the drivability with the 274's was horrible. High rpms was great with the 274 but just wasn't worth the loss of low/mid range. Might be better on the stroker though.
 
Im thinking about either going with the kelfords with springs, or even going bigger like the fp series built for stroker motors (can't remember what the models were). Drivability is most important which makes me think ill end up with the kelford 272's.
 
I'd run fp2's on a street driven stroker. Sure you'll lose some top end, but the extra oomph in the lower revs is why you're looking at a stroker in the first place, right?

FP's stroker cams have a x added to the name. So their stroker fp2's are fp2x's. I'm still not entirely sure I'd run a fp2x over an fp2.
 
Well does anyone happen to have a dyno graph of some fp2 cams on a strokes engine (preferably 2.4l). Just trying to make a decision. There is so much back and forth on what to do.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

After doing a pretty lengthy pull today i can feel the drop off in the upper rpms! Wanting to make a decision soon. Will there be a large enough change in the top end to justify fp2's? Attached is a photo of the dyno graph where you can see the power dropping off. Dyno was on stock cams, of green at 24 psi and 92 pump gas. E85 conversion will be happening soon so want to get this all going!
 

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Well does anyone happen to have a dyno graph of some fp2 cams on a strokes engine (preferably 2.4l). Just trying to make a decision. There is so much back and forth on what to do.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

After doing a pretty lengthy pull today i can feel the drop off in the upper rpms! Wanting to make a decision soon. Will there be a large enough change in the top end to justify fp2's? Attached is a photo of the dyno graph where you can see the power dropping off. Dyno was on stock cams, of green at 24 psi and 92 pump gas. E85 conversion will be happening soon so want to get this all going!

Well obviously the fp2 will perform better in higher rpms compared to stock cams. I plan to run the fp2's to 9k on my 2.0 so they should be able to take 7500 on a stroker.
 
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