2.4L and FWD

[MattyD]

I was only able to find one post about this, so I am looking for some more info.

I currently need a new engine for my 97 GST, which is a daily driver and would probably see little to no track use. I am looking for an engine that will be reilable, but will also be fun to drive. I currently have a brand new EVOIII turbo that will be going in with the new engine. This would mean near instant spool on a 2.4. Would the 2.4 be fun to drive on the streets in a FWD, or will I merely be sitting at lights spinning my tires.

If I dicide against the 2.4, I will probably go with a motor by FFWDconnection.com with 9:0 weisco/eagle combo, minor head work, 264/272 cams, etc.

Which do the masses think will be better?

Thanks for the help.

~Matt

 

[daren_p]

I don't have a 2.4 but Iam running the evoIII @ 20 psi on a fwd car. From my experience with a stock open diff you would probably get annoyed driving the 2.4 with the evoIII, spool up will just be to quick. Last year @ 18 psi and the stock diff I could spin anytime in first or second on a descent set of 225 wide ZR rated tires. This past spring I installed a Quaife LSD and it makes a huge difference, car is much better to drive now. If you did go 2.4, would defently recommend a LSD and personally I would want a turbo a good bit larger for some lag.

 

[project_tsi]

I don't run a 2.4L but I'm close enough with a 2.3L in a FWD. I've got Comp 200's in the head along with a 50 trim pushing 21 psi on pump w/ 12* timing advance and the car is silly insanley scary. It rips straight through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd throws you all over the road begging for traction the car is literally dangerous to drive under boost on the street. This is on 235/45/ZR17's. Granted the car is very fun to drive and still is easily streetable, its just when you get on it that all hell breaks loose. I also have a full LSD, made by Karking, but nearly a replica of the Quaife unit. Granted the tires have seen better days, I'm sure it would be a bit better in 3rd, but I'd guarantee it would still rip through 2nd. I'm really contemplating throwing on a 2 stage boost controller and running lower boost in the 1-2 so it won't rip them all the way through. And on my setup with the cams I see 20 psi by 3600.

 

[Greg Collier]

I have a 2.4 by Engintecs with an FP-3052… It runs a mere 400+ hp at 12psi, on 275/40’s with a Kaas LSD. But of course it’s a racecar. I’d love to drive it on the street but I’d end up with every CHP, PD, and helicopter news camera crew following me…

 

[MattyD]

Thanks for the help. I think that I am going to go with this engine built by FFWDConnection.

SHORTBLOCK

1. Fully CRYOED 6 bolt block, crank, rods, and pistons
2. Wiseco Pistons (9:1 ratio/.020 overbore)
3. Eagle rods
4. ARP rod bolts
5. ARP main studs
6. All new freeze plugs
7. Balance shaft removal kit installation
8. New oil pump front cover with new bolts
9. New oil drive gears
10. New 6 bolt oil pan with SS bolts
11. Line hone, torque plate boring, decking, and plateau honing of block
12. Assembly of shortblock
13. Balancing and blueprinting of rotating assembly
14. File fitment of rings
15. All new Clevite bearings
16. Rear crank seal plate with new seal and bolts
17. Crank bolt and washer
18. Dipstick tube


HEAD (2g head, unless someone can convince me the 1g would be better)

1. Level 1.5 head (1mm over SS valves installed)
2. New big bore lifters
3. DKS1 cams (similar to 264/272 combo)
4. Head “Wings” (timing cover support parts)
5. ARP Head Studs (12mm)
6. Cleaned and inspected rocker arms (set of 16)
7. Checked to spec stock springs
8. Rocker gaskets
9. Stainless steel manny stud kit

Estimated cost = approx $4000


Let me know what you think, this is just something I went over with Darren a while back. I am unsure of the 1mm over valves, I'm not sure they are needed or will realy help that much. The other thing is, as seen earlier in this post, that I am thinkin of using the 2g head due to better port design for increased velocity for better low end. This is a DD and is only driven on the street. I dont need great flow @ 8000rpms as it will almost never see this (highway on ramps will still be fun ) Anyway, looks like I will stay away from the 2.4just because I don't want to spend the money to get enough traction on the fwd. Thanks for all they input on this.

~Matt

 

[boostedinaz]

Not trying to be a stick in the mud, but what are your goals? While that engine is super cool and the stats look bad ass on paper, do you really need all that?

 

[MattyD]

Need????? Well, I guess that I don't really "need" all of that. As far as goals I am just looking to have some fun driving around. Maybe go to the drag strip a couple times with friends and stomp them, but mainly just fun on the street/highway. (No street racing, don't worry) I would like to get between 350 and 400hp. I know that it can be done on the evo3, but its tough. The reason for the built engine, is that I'm sure one I get to that point (350hp) I'm going to want more. Why have to tear everything apart again. That and it is only an extra 500 to go to the forged internals as opposed to 1g rods/2g pistons.

 

[andymoraitis]

Having ridden in Dan's FWD stroker, I think you're correct in going for the 2.0 although with a hard hitting turbo like the EVO III, you'll absolutely need an LSD no matter what level motor you build. The setup looks fine, just don't forget that you'll need a locking differential to really make the car streetable and fun.

Good luck!

Andy