2.4L Secifics

[iamtall77]

Okay, I'm trying to plan a 2.4L build up and need some questions answered. First, what rod and pistons to use. The stock 2.4L shares a rod length with the 2.0L, but Magnus thinks it needs more and has longer rods. No one else I can find carries these rods or pistons to match. Is there a huge advantage to using longer rods? Second, will the pistons need an offset pin to have extended life? I figure that any piston meant for the hybrid swap (4G63 head) should be the right choice, but I want to make sure. Also, since the 4G63 has a smaller bore than the 64 block, will there be any problems with the head? The head dome will be smaller than the cylinder hole correct? Will this cause any problems or does it get machined out? Lastly, I basically need everything from the 2.0L block except the timing set right? The timing set is specific to the 64. Meaning the timing sprokets, belt, pulley, tensioner, and tensioner pulley. I hear the 2.0L water pump works fine. Does the oil pump work as well? I don't see any aftermarket listings for the oil pump. Am I missing anything? Let me know so I can start gather ing parts. As far as cams, bigger is better?

 

[Lunch_Box]

NO one else has the rods because they are custon made to Magnus's specs. The longer rods will give you a better rod to stroke ratio. The long rod option is up to you. If you are doind a 2.4L then you need to buy pistons for the 2.4L. I know of Ross and Wiseco. The 2.0L head bolts on fine. You take everything from the 2.0L and bolt it to the 2.4L the only thing different is you will need a 94 galant dohc timing belt and cam gears.

 

[Scrymerr]

There are some oil drain holes in the block you will have to block off as the head does not cover them.

 

[Lunch_Box]

There are some oil drain holes in the block you will have to block off as the head does not cover them.

I have been told and read that you do not have to block off anything.

 

[tmizer]

G4CS and Galant DOHC 4G64 blocks do not require the 5 oil drain holes to be blocked as I believe they don't exist. 7-bolt 4G64's on the other hand require it as shown here, which is what I followed on my 64/63, and it works fine.

 

[iamtall77]

If the holes are only in the block, why block them off? No oil is going to go through there. Is there a chance that the oil fumes may do something? Not likely. Crankcase pressure wouldn't cause any problems, especialy compared to cylinder head pressure. Which brings me back to one of my original questions, will the smaller diameter cylinder head domes cause any problems with the larger piston cylinder diameter? I've seen detonation damage on a couple of heads, and the difference in size would lead me to believe this could happen on the hybrid swap. Anyone have contacts at Magnus that could share some of their "secrets" if there are any?

 

[Savage Talon]

Some good info on 2.4/2.3:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100677

http://www.labattz.com/phpBB2/viewt...ghlight=&sid=0959bca556899e23f30425fab3bfd78b

Also Weisco part# k564m865 for standard & k564m87 for 20 over. Those are your piston part#'s.

 

[tmizer]

If the holes are only in the block, why block them off? No oil is going to go through there. Is there a chance that the oil fumes may do something? Not likely. Crankcase pressure wouldn't cause any problems, especialy compared to cylinder head pressure....

...because the head gasket doesn't completely cover the holes. But go ahead, try it and see how "no oil is going to go through there." Have you never had a dipstick pop up and blow oil everywhere?!?!?! Jeezuz, I feel like Defiant.... WTF

 

[snox135]

If you are using Magnus longer rods you will need to use there matching pistons. Also Magnus isn't saying the 2.4l needs longer rods. They also offer shorter rods for the 2.4l. It is all in what you want out of the motor.

Someone does offer a higher flow or pressure oil pump. I believe it is made by Topline but I'm not sure. I think flatlander racing has it somewhere on there website.

edit: Toga makes the oil pump and it's a high volume pump. It's on the Import performance parts page.

 

[1fastlaser]

I'm running a g4cs 2.4,no oil holes blocked off,and I'm been running anywhere from 20-25psi on a 60-1 p trim.Thats why you bypass the PVC valve,and get a catch can,once you get to that point you should be running a catch can anyway

 

[huafist]

G4CS and Galant DOHC 4G64 blocks do not require the 5 oil drain holes to be blocked as I believe they don't exist. 7-bolt 4G64's on the other hand require it as shown here, which is what I followed on my 64/63, and it works fine.

This is incorrect. The DOHC 4G64 is the block which needs the oil drainback holes plugged. The SOHC 4G64 blocks and the G4CS blocks do not have these holes.

 

[DSMraver]

Do you like getting garbage in your oil? Well, if you don't block those holes, they are exposed to the elements, and anything in your engine bay.

Not to mention that you would get oil over everything due to crankcase pressure.

Call Magnus for info on 2.4l Long Rod piston/rod prices. www.magnusmotorsports.com

 

[tmizer]

This is incorrect. The DOHC 4G64 is the block which needs the oil drainback holes plugged. The SOHC 4G64 blocks and the G4CS blocks do not have these holes.

....and don't spread misinformation: SOHC 4G64 7-bolt blocks, like mine which came out of a 95+ Expo, have those 5 holes.

And still: the DOHC 4G64 galant block doesn't have them, which makes sense since it uses a DOHC head.

You are right only in the point that that G4CS blocks don't have them, which is what I and others have said anyways, and is common knowledge at this point.

People really need to walk around a junkyard anyways, and find out these potential issues anyways, otherwise they read the keeraap on the internet and take it as complete gospel, because, "it said it on the internet, so it must be true."

 

[huafist]

....and don't spread misinformation: SOHC 4G64 7-bolt blocks, like mine which came out of a 95+ Expo, have those 5 holes.

And still: the DOHC 4G64 galant block doesn't have them, which makes sense since it uses a DOHC head.

You are right only in the point that that G4CS blocks don't have them, which is what I and others have said anyways, and is common knowledge at this point.

People really need to walk around a junkyard anyways, and find out these potential issues anyways, otherwise they read the keeraap on the internet and take it as complete gospel, because, "it said it on the internet, so it must be true."

My bad, I dunno wtf I was thinking. Must've had a f***ing anneurism or something
The SOHC blocks are the ones with the oil drainback holes.

 

[blue1]

Thats funny in australia the 2.4, 97on single overhead cam blocks dont have the drain back holes either. the DOHC 4g63 head bolts straight on.
Easiest thing to do is just get a head gasket to suit the head you are using and place it on the deck of the block, and IF you seem to be lucky enough that that it captures all the holes use it, if not just plug the holes that are left to atmosphere (or engine bay) The ###'s mightn't have one the war but they seem to get you's fighting between yourselves.

 

[Scrymerr]

I'm running a g4cs 2.4,no oil holes blocked off,and I'm been running anywhere from 20-25psi on a 60-1 p trim.Thats why you bypass the PVC valve,and get a catch can,once you get to that point you should be running a catch can anyway

Well, since one breather hose is just supposed to go to the intake, you could just have that go to a catch can right? Since crankcase pressure is now allowed to escape without the PCV valve interfering, couldn't you just remove the PCV valve and use a straight through hose barb and attach another hose to go to catch can?

 

[DJpHGotBanned]

Why do you need to use the Galant cam gears? I know they are half a tooth different... but why? I know the added deck height accounts for the longer timing belt. But what about those cam gears?

How does the timing belt work? The crank turns the cam gears at half engine RPM... this is determined by the ratio of cogs on each pulley. The cogs are the same as the 2.0 so, obviously, the 2:1 ratio is still there.

The cams and cam gears for the 2.0 DOHC head are at TDC when they are aligned with each other and the top of the head. The crank is at TDC when its mark matches up as with the one on the front cover.

So if both are set correctly at TDC, and for ever 1 turn of the crank you turn the cams 1/2 a rotation.... what is different between the 2.4 DOHC setup and the 2.0 DOHC setup?

Does the 4G64 require you to advance (or was it retard) the cam timing a half a tooth at the cams for any reason? Wouldnt that be a grind difference and not a timing gear difference?

 

[huafist]

Why do you need to use the Galant cam gears? I know they are half a tooth different... but why? I know the added deck height accounts for the longer timing belt. But what about those cam gears?

How does the timing belt work? The crank turns the cam gears at half engine RPM... this is determined by the ratio of cogs on each pulley. The cogs are the same as the 2.0 so, obviously, the 2:1 ratio is still there.

The cams and cam gears for the 2.0 DOHC head are at TDC when they are aligned with each other and the top of the head. The crank is at TDC when its mark matches up as with the one on the front cover.

So if both are set correctly at TDC, and for ever 1 turn of the crank you turn the cams 1/2 a rotation.... what is different between the 2.4 DOHC setup and the 2.0 DOHC setup?

Does the 4G64 require you to advance (or was it retard) the cam timing a half a tooth at the cams for any reason? Wouldnt that be a grind difference and not a timing gear difference?

The deck height throws the ratio off.

 

[Injected]

Everyone seems to be moving to some form of greater displacement for their street/somewhat-strip cars. I like the trend but I have some questions about it myself. I thought I'd throw this into the discussion, but what about the 2.4L 4G63 6-bolt build? Why is this so unpopular? The hybrid engines seem to do fine as well as the G4 and 64, but why is the 63 2.4 build seems rare? Does it have something to do with the cylinder wall thickness? Rod ratio? etc?

 

[Lunch_Box]

Do you mean the 4G63 2.3L build? If so lots of shops offer that as an option.

 

[DJpHGotBanned]

The deck height throws the ratio off.

How does it throw it off. The only way would be to add or remove cogs from the wheels, right?

 

[98spydert]

The deck height throws the ratio off.

The angles of the timing belt are different between the engines. When you switch to the taller deck, the alignment is off so the marks on the 2.0 cam gears wouldn't hold true.

 

[bigjangin]

The angles of the timing belt are different between the engines. When you switch to the taller deck, the alignment is off so the marks on the 2.0 cam gears wouldn't hold true.

The marks are half a tooth off(I forget if its advanced or retarded) from the normal 2.0 gears. The reason almost no one remarks the old ones and uses new ones, is because they are 15-20 dollars. Its much easier to plop down $20 and get some cam gears that are 100% right, then fiddle around trying to mark your old cam gears and potentially have the timing off.

 

[Injected]

Do you mean the 4G63 2.3L build? If so lots of shops offer that as an option.

Yes, that is the build I am talking about. 100mm stroke and an 87-87.5mm bore. Cometic even makes a head gasket for this setup. It just seems a lot easier than a lot of these hybrids. I'm not trying to start any arguments, but the ease staying with the 63 and the availability of parts for it makes it very appealing to me. I've seen a lot of shops offer stroker 4G63's from 2.1L to 2.4L, but I hardly hear of anyone building one. Maybe because it's so straightforward, it's essentially a rebuild and that's why I don't hear about it. Which crank would be used for a 2G 7 bolt stroker (100mm)? The 7bolt 64 crank? I don't want to hear anything about 6 vs. 7 bolt, I just want to know for knowing's sake.

 

[iamtall77]

I'm choosing the 2.4L block and crank because it's simpler to me than clearancing the block on the 63. Sure I need to buy a few parts to make the hybrid work, but I get an extra .1 L. As far as availability of parts, the rods are the same, in either case you need more specialized pistons. A 2.3L will likely need to have offset wrist pins and not the 2.4 (if I'm wrong correct me) Besides, I can pick up a 6 bolt 2.4L Hyndai engine for about $150. Try getting a 4G63 block for less than $200 from a yard. It makes sense to me to stick with the stock 2.4L block. Can anyone answer one of my first questions? Will there be an interferance issue of any kind with a block that has a larger bore than the head? It's only 2mm, but will that cause a problem?