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420A 2.0 to a 2.4 motor swap in a 95 Eclipse GS

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Again, he's not talking about a Spyder 4g64...hes talking about the 2.4L 420a
 
Originally posted by Moegil1698
that 2.4l engine will give youa whole NO MORE HP then the one youve already got...check out the stats on the DSM tuner main page for 2G non-turbo...the spyder engine puts out a whole 1 HP more!!
http://www.dsmtuners.com/model-guide/modeldetails-eclipse2ga.php

Stock the 2.4L out of the dodge stratus is like 167hp and 170ft-lb torque, with an extra valve per cylinder from our head and another cam added into the mixture I'd say we'd see a very noticeable increase in power.
 
<Screams>

EVERYBODY STOP TALKING!!!!!

<silence>


<in a normal tone>

He is asking about swapping a 2.0 Chrysler motor to a 2.4L Chrysler motor. They have the same engine code, and are both 420a's. The 2GNT head bolts to it. Use the 2GNT head, as the Neon head flows the wrong way. You want the exhaust to come out the front, and the air to go in the back. Here is a list of the stupid shit that you need to do to make it work:

Passenger side motor mount bracket, to bolt the 2GNT rubber mount to the block

2GNT motor mounts (for the rest of them) since they are on the transmission

22% more fuel, to compensate for the extra displacement. Gain fuel by using larger injectors, higher base fuel pressure, or an sAFC

2GNT lower water pipe, since the 2.4L one is too short. You need to find a better way to support it, as the bracket for it does not bolt up to the 2.4 properly

2.4L head bolts, since the corners from the 2GNT head bolts are too short

custom accessory brackets, presuming you want power steering and AC

PT Cruiser lower alternator bracket

2GNT upper alternator bracket bolts on (only godda*ned 2GNT thing that bolts to the block properly!)

2GNT transmission

tinsnips to create clearance in the lower water pipe bracket for starter clearance

modified oil pan, since there is a notch for the crossmember, but none for the exhaust

modified exhaust, since the motor is 1" taller, you exhaust must go 1" further down.

crank trigger for CAS is 180* advanced. You must file the locating nipples off of the cam angle sensor magnet, and advance it 90*, as 90* cam is 180* crank.

2GNT sensors in the block (knock, oil pressure, crank position sensor)

Some wiring needs to be extended, since the extra 1" of deck height will actually make some things a stretch. Might want to baffle the oil pan and remove the balance shafts* while you are in there.

There is a bit more stuff, but that's the bulk of it...

*now, the balance shaft removal. Easy as sh*t, actually. pull the oil pan off, unbolt the box that has a chain connecting it to the crank, cut the chain. Last move is to plug the oiling hole for the balance shafts. Just tap it and screw a bolt in there. You will recognize it, it's a small hole next to one of the bolt holes for the b-shaft box. Really easy, especially when compared to the 4G6X balance shafts...

-=B-=
 
Quick question Bill, could I bolt up a Star kit to the block or would I need a custom manifold? I know I'd probably have to extend some piping to make up for the 1" taller block, but would everything else bolt up?
 
It will be REALLY close to the hood, but it will fit, from how it looks. I don't know how long the paint on the hood will last... but it will fit, at least with the HRC mani. I don't know about that POS Deltagate, though. That might not.
-=B-=
 
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