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1G 1ga Carbon Hood Hatch Adjustment?

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BLKWHTTSi

Probationary Member
10
3
Jul 24, 2021
West Norriton, Pennsylvania
Bought a VIS oem style CF hood. I got the fitment to look pretty decent and am prepping to install my hood pins.
However, the hood doesnt engage the secondary latch. I push it down pretty hard and it still wont trigger the latch to lock. Is there anything i can do?
I was going to slot the bolt holes on the latch itself. Thoughts? Suggestions to get the hood to latch? I could remove it all together but then all you have to do to get into my engine bay is open the hoodpins
 
Have you tried adjusting the rubber stops? Not sure how hard it is to remove the bumper on 1ga but you’ll have a better look at the latch with it off.
I moved the stops to get the hood aligned with the fenders when Im pushing it down into the latch. Even with the stops all the was down it still didnt shut
I have clear access to the latch, theres just no clear adjustment for the latch height.
 
You really shouldn't use the factory hood latch anyway with a carbon fiber or fiberglass hood, the catch on the hood many times tears away from the fiberglass exoskeleton and will trash your car if the hood flies up and hits the windshield and upper roof, I have seen it happen in person plenty of times at the shootout. Hood pins are recommended on those types of hoods and delete the factory hood latch.
 

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The hood latches you posted @steve are top-mounted. He would need a die grinder with a burr to open the hole to the shape needed for the pins. They come with a template and instructions but I'm sure you already know that.
 
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Sparco hood pins lasted me over 20 years, so kept them on my new CF hood.

The factory hood latch spring is VERY strong. It was designed to "pop up" the factory hood when the in-car latch release is pulled. You don't need that much spring with a CF hood.

I suggest looking for a light spring at ACE, or OSH, and then take time to align the hood latch to the hood catch so that minimal effort is used to close the hood. The factory latch is just a security convenience. The hood pins are the real safety mechanism to keep your CF lid shut.
 
Sparco hood pins lasted me over 20 years, so kept them on my new CF hood.

The factory hood latch spring is VERY strong. It was designed to "pop up" the factory hood when the in-car latch release is pulled. You don't need that much spring with a CF hood.

I suggest looking for a light spring at ACE, or OSH, and then take time to align the hood latch to the hood catch so that minimal effort is used to close the hood. The factory latch is just a security convenience. The hood pins are the real safety mechanism to keep your CF lid shut.
Ill look into this. I have sparco hood pins and really did not want to cut large holes for the aerocatch style
 
The reason I mentioned the aero style is that they have a key...If you do remove the catch you would need something to keep thieves at bay. I believe someone already mentioned getting a weaker spring and notching the holes to raise it up a bit... No matter what you decide...best of luck.
 
If you buy the areocatch pins setup make sure the studs are steel instead of aluminum, there was a warning years ago that the aluminum studs can fail and break. If you currently have aluminums studs Pegasus Racing sold me my steel setup.
 
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