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1G vs 2G GSX

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96GST96

10+ Year Contributor
49
2
Jun 15, 2011
Gainesville, Florida
Well, I've been through four GS-Ts, and now's the time to make the jump to AWD and I'm trying to weigh my options. I want a GSX/TSi, with the main purpose of the build being a high-powered, daily driver/road course car.

My goal is to slowly build towards running the Sebring road course here in south Florida eventually, so 800-900hp build are not in my plans. My focus is to build the car with the best possible weight to power ratio, without crossing the 700-750hp threshold. Yes, I know the build will be long and extensive (not to mention expensive), but this will be a thorough project from the ground up.

Is it better to run a 1G or a 2G? Weight difference/ratio major? 6-bolt vs 7-bolt?

My last build was a 2.2 destroked build (VR4 64 block, 63 head) 272 HKS, 8:3 wiseco, MHI 20G, just to land the basics. But this time I would like to venture into the 2.3L stroker build, but again, not sure of what to do, or where to start.

As of now, I am wanting to piece together the engine first, with the proper internals and assembly. So, to achieve a moderate 600-700hp build, which manifolds (I&E), Fuel system, turbo, internals, etc, what would everyone recommend?/who's running what.

Also, newbie to E85? Any correlation between that and what I want to do road course wise? Hate to seem erratic and all over, but please, any input is appreciated!!!
 
Personal preference. 1Gs are better for a dedicated drag car/street bruiser. 2Gs handle better, and ride better. Both can be made pretty damn fast, on not a hell of an expensive budget though. What do you prefer, is the question you have to ask yourself. I love 1Gs...I love the simplicity and how solid they were made..but my 2G rides like a dream and handles quite a lot better and feels overall more planted than any of my 1Gs did. I love both. You can't go wrong with either, so long as you make sure to be SUPER picky, and it's not abused or raped. Also that 6 bolt bullshit you hear spouted off..ignore it. A split thrust 7 bolt is every bit as capable as a 6 bolt. Getting tired of hearing the same old regurgitated BS everytime someone mentions a 2G.
 
There seems to a wider aftermarket support for 2gs in suspension department, not sure how crazy you wanna go (suspension wise) but my only real offering is that 2gs have a LOT more support in the aftermarket community then 1gs. I am personally very biased and will never own a 2g so long as a 1g is available but that has a lot more to do with comfort and looks.
 
Yeah, except the true numbers of people who had proven, verified crankwalk are quite low. The truth of the matter is, every Tom, Dick, and Harry slapped on a super heavy pressure plate, or abused the shit out of their motor, got rod knock, and then cried "crank walk!" and it snowballed from there. A shit ton of people would be very surprised at how much end-play their 6 bolt has if they actually had a crank trigger plate and CTS like the 2G's do. I've personally had a 6 bolt 1G automatic crank walk. Measured end-play and had it verified. Any engine can crank-walk. Period. All the 7 bolts that were going to walk, have done so already. If something happens in this day and age, it's user error.
 
I would say for road corse a 2g would be a better pick. If you are going to see gravel and dirt tracks I would go 1g just because of ride hight and they kinda fit it. Just my opinion. And don't think about crank walk. Just build the motor correct and you should be good.

Their is a really good write up about it and how clearance difference in rob bearing and crank bearing help cause it. I'm trying to find the link.

http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/crank-walk

Found the link
 
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2G for you my good sir. Also, as a couple notes, alcohol and ethanol based fuels wear your valve guides twice as fast as petrol fuels. With a 2.3, you will munch through transmissions like your favorite breakfast cereal. 2.1 destroker might be worth a go. But you've kinda been there. I say HX-40 for the turbo.
 
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