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Resolved 1g rear camber!

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DiabloRT said:
The Ingalls is a little easier and quicker to adjust.


Yeah, I'll give you that one, the eccentric bushings can be a MOFO to install. We just had my car up in the air for an alignment and my buddy really had to screw with them to get them rotated, but that problem was caused by the eccentric bolt and washer that were corroded. Good thing the local race alignment shop is DSM friendly...
 
diambo4life said:
I run Taboo's "kit" on my car and I have been doing so for maybe a year and a half with good results. It takes me say 5 minutes adjusting my toe/camber with them. :thumb:

My car has probably a 2.5-3.0" drop in the rear. :thumb:

Ya too bad he's a chump that took my money and ran. I can't say :thumbdown :thumbdown :thumbdown enough for taboo

I am buying the DME from SLS, cutting my losses from Taboo. I've done everything I can think of to get my order with him settled, but isn't ever going to happen, so I'll just cut my losses, make sure if I ever hear anyone mention Taboo, that I flood them with PM's telling them to NOT WASTE THEIR MONEY. Check Vendors-Reviewed if you wanna, I'm not alone in this.
 
From what i understood, a 1G AWD lowered with Eibach Prokit max setting at the rear was reached to -2 degrees and the front was adjusted dead on.
If you have a drastic drop such as the Eibach Sportline, then a camber kit is needed, but that all depends on you.

Thanks

Sam
1706/2000
1990 GSX
 
I just ordered this DME kit.. i wanted to know how well it worked for you guys who also just ordered it.

Was the installation relatively hassle-free?

Also... when you lower a 1G AWD, does it affect the front camber at all?
 
I also wanted to comment on the whole Taboo thing. I am running the Taboo rear toe eliminator kit on my car. Taboo has always said that he does not have that website for the sole purpose of making money, nor does he claim that it is a storefront per se. If you want to buy something from him you have to contact him ahead of time and listen to what he says about delivery time. You cannot punch the buy it now button and expect it to show up a week later. Even if you have paid him via Paypal, he does not consider himself liable for your money unless you make an agreement with him in the first place.

This is not an endorsement for Taboo, nor is it a bash, just some observations I picked up while dsmtalk was still in business. My thoughts on the matter are that if you offer it for sale on your website, and you give people the option to order and pay without contacting you, then you better fulfill that order. He should remove all options to order and/or pay without having contacted him first. Sorry to go off topic...
 
92redman said:
I don't want to hijack the post, but how much adjustablility does the stock cam bolts have? How close to 0 could I get the camber on the stock suspension?

I have AGX's with Intrax springs and my rear was way out when I lowered it, -2.2 degrees of camber on both sides. I was planing on getting a kit to fix it but I found somthing odd.
I wrecked the car and the sub frame on the 4 bolt rear end needed replaced, I replaed it and finally freed up all the stuck bushings, then I drove it to my school to do an alignment on it. After getting everything else in the green, I tried the rear camber. And to my amazment, the stock eccentric bushings had more than enough adjustment to get the camber it the green on both sides.
I say try with the stock ones first, and if it doesn't work, then get a kit.
 
JDMFirstGen said:
I have AGX's with Intrax springs and my rear was way out when I lowered it, -2.2 degrees of camber on both sides. I was planing on getting a kit to fix it but I found somthing odd.
I wrecked the car and the sub frame on the 4 bolt rear end needed replaced, I replaed it and finally freed up all the stuck bushings, then I drove it to my school to do an alignment on it. After getting everything else in the green, I tried the rear camber. And to my amazment, the stock eccentric bushings had more than enough adjustment to get the camber it the green on both sides.
I say try with the stock ones first, and if it doesn't work, then get a kit.
What was your camber at before and after the adjustment?
 
JwUoNoG said:
I just ordered this DME kit.. i wanted to know how well it worked for you guys who also just ordered it.

Was the installation relatively hassle-free?

I just installed the DME kit last week. I ordered it off ebay. I just punched the 'Buy Now' button and it showed up less than a week later :) The instructions that came with the kit were excellent. I could tell it was written by a guy who owns a DSM. Removing the control arm was easy. It requires a 19mm socket on the ball joint, 22mm socket on the inner pivot, and some type of puller to get the ball joint out. I used a typical 3 arm gear puller and it worked fine.

Removing the rubber bushing was a PITA just like any other polyurethane bushing installation. Pressing in the DME bushing took some care since it's a press fit. I had to back off the press a few times because the metal eccentric doesn't like to go in straight. IMHO the press fit is a little tight, but I did manage to press it in completely.

Re-installing the control arm was easy, just make sure to install the ball joint first, as the new bushing is so stiff you won't be able to wiggle the ball joint into position once the inner end of the control arm is bolted down.

I can't really feel a difference yet. My car isn't lowered much, so my camber was within spec before I installed the DME kit. The coilovers go on next week tho and I will be lowering it a bit more.

The increased range of adjustment is nice. Before the DME kit the camber bolts were almost at their max setting. Now that I have the DME kit the camber bolts are adjusted almost at their minimum setting.
 
Will I have to get realigned after my camber kit?

here's my current alignment specs. I just got aligned a month ago.


Left front

Min spec Max Before After

Caster 1.81 : 2.81 3.31 3.31

Camber -0.34 : 0.66 -1.04 -1.07

Toe -0.06 : 0.06 -.041 0.01

SAI 14.10 --- N/M




Right front
Min spec Max Before After

Caster 1.81 : 2.81 1.99 1.99

Camber -0.34 : 0.66 -2.36 -2.44

Toe -0.06 0.06 -0.88 0.04

SAI 14.10


Left Rear

Min spec Max Before After

Camber -2.06 : -1.06 -3.22 -3.71

Toe 0.01 : 0.01 -0.22 0.06


Right Rear
Min spec Max Before After

Camber -2.06 : -1.06 -3.30 -3.36

Toe 0.01 : 0.01 -0.09 0.03


Alignment Values

Front Rear

Total toe 0.05 0.10

Set Back --- ---

Track Width Diff. ---

Wheel base diff. ---

Thrust angle ---

Camber difference 1.37 -0.35

Caster Difference 1.32 ---
 
If you really want a do-it-yourself project cut the arms just like illustrated on Taboos page, separate the arm about 1/2" inch, and weld in some plate to box the arm. Worked great for me and along with new stock adjusting bolts, restored my camber back to normal. :thumb:

Rick - '91 GSX :dsm:
 
92redman said:
What was your camber at before and after the adjustment?

It was at 2.2 degrees before, and I set it at whatever the very begining of green was on the machine. I did the alignment myself and just put it as far negative within factory specifications that it would go. Not sure but I believe it was 1.9 or 1.8 degrees.
Even though it was still negative, it was all within factory specs and I still had adjustment left in the eccentric bolt.

Sean P
 
My kit came in today. I'm gonna try to put it in this saturday. Wish me luck.

How long does it take?
 
JwUoNoG said:
My kit came in today. I'm gonna try to put it in this saturday. Wish me luck.

How long does it take?

Getting the control arms off the car is quick and easy. Bolting them back in is quick and easy. Getting the bushing out of the control arm will take some time. If you have a torch it will go quickly. Pressing in the new bushing takes some time and care. It could take all day. It could take at least most of the afternoon.

Good Luck!
 
I don't think you want to compensate for negative camber by relocating the lower control arm. This will reduce the track of the car and bring your rear tires very close to the trailing arms. You will have clearance issues if you have aftermarket wheels.
 
Ingals may be a bad choice!

I have direct experiance with 2 broken Ingals upper control arms.

This is what is going on my 1G:
Upper Control Arm

Also here on eBay

This unit looks to be able to handle a lot more abuse, yet alow easy adjustment for those of us that are always tweeking "something" on our car :D
 
Those look pretty nice. I have something similar for my 240. Adjustable control arms are considered a must for any lowered 240, so there are a million to choose from. The price is nice as well. Let us know how they work out.
 
The ingalls replacement UCA runs about 65$/side, is there some major difference b/t the link he posted and ingalls?
 
mach1one said:
The ingalls replacement UCA runs about 65$/side, is there some major difference b/t the link he posted and ingalls?

I think they are a bit more $$ than that. Post a link if you find them that cheap.
 
I called ingalls to find a local distributor, he said 65$ + 7$ shipping per side. I double-checked with ingalls to make sure that the same part he quoted me was the UCA, and it was.

The distributor didn't know much about the part, but it's hard to mess up getting a price when I give you the part #.
 
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