1G PTE 5027E "50 Trim" Question

[HBWaterfowler]

Hi,

I was thinking of buying a PTE 5027E turbo. From what I know, it mounts up to the stock o2 and mani.

I haven't found to much information on the turbo used on a 1G DSM.

I was hoping you guys could confirm that it work with a 1G DSM and what kinda other information there is out there on the PTE turbos, and more specifically the 5027E.

Any information would help. I'm not sure if I should buy the turbo. I have stock setup, putting on a MAFT, so I could upgrade injectors, exhaust, and be ready for the PTE.

Thanks.

 

[No_Skillz]

If you have a stock setup you are very far from being ready to buy this turbo. Plan out your supporting mods first with a goal in mind. A simple GM MAF and a MAF-T will not be nearly enough to safely use the turbo you have in mind.

I don't have much info on the 5027 since the "standard" 50-trim from PTE is the 5031. I personally have a journal bearing version with a Mitsu housing for about a year and am very happy with it. This is a very popular choice since it is bolt on, durable, and goes beyond the power needs/wants of most people.

 

[JusMX141]

The 5027E is the same turbo as a 5031E with a Stage 2 turbine instead of a Stage 3. It'll spool a little faster but not flow as well at high boost.

I haven't found PTE turbos to be very reliable, especially lately, so I'm not recommending this turbo or anything else they sell.

 

[kraka]

The 5027 has a smaller turbine wheel than the 5031. Technically, it should spool faster then the 50trim with the T31 wheel, but sacrifice top end. Regardless, you will still need the same amount of supporting mods (FMIC, injectors, tuning device, bigger maf, full exhaust, etc).

 

[JusMX141]

Is there an echo in here?

 

[HBWaterfowler]

Thanks for the feedback.

I'm planning on getting the supporting mods. It's just sometimes you come across a good deal, and think "what if?" and so, what if I did get that turbo (rated at 450 max hp) and get other mods that work well with the PTE 5027E tuebo.

The turbo also needs a rebuild and has the flapper removed for external waistgate.

There is also a matter of the turbo needs room to fit, so you need to *slighly bend a metal water tube (unless you get a difftent exhaust mani that lowers the mount a little) to make it fit.

 

[No_Skillz]

My compressor cover clears the waterpipe without any denting, although it comes close. Some others have needed to do this which leads me to believe that PTE outsources the casting to several different companies creating slightly different products.

 

[JusMX141]

The turbo also needs a rebuild......

Of course it does....it's a PTE turbo.

 

[94Jettameowpsst]

After having multiple bolt on turbos i first off wouldnt recommend that housing. The mitsu housing is limited to 400-450whp due to to the ar of the housing and the size of the housing itself. Go with a t3, you'll thank me in the long run when you decide to upgrade and dont have money spent on something you didnt have to buy in the first place.
Secondly, the e housing sucks. Pump gas isnt friendly over 20psi unless you have a pretty decent tune

 

[HBWaterfowler]

The main thing I like about my 16g, is the quick spool up.

The PTE 5027E is another fast spooler (more street).

I would not want to upgrade to a T3/T4 becasue (correct me if i'm wrong) they are more for drag racing becasue they spool up at 3,500+ rpms.

I think you guys are right though, it would be a bad idea to buy the 5027E. I was hoping that the PTE was more reliable, can take more abuse and have a higher HP capability. But if that's not the case, and they always need rebuilds... Then I it kinda sours the deal.

I was hoping to talk the guy down to $150 bucks! So, that's a huge savings. It needing a rebuild is a problem, the guys story is: he just had it rebuilt and it still didnt work. So? I would think it would need a new rebuild or someone to take it apart and reuse the new parts and make sure it's done right.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[JusMX141]

The main thing I like about my 16g, is the quick spool up.

The PTE 5027E is another fast spooler (more street).

I would not want to upgrade to a T3/T4 becasue (correct me if i'm wrong) they are more for drag racing becasue they spool up at 3,500+ rpms.

You do realize the 5027E is a T3/T4 turbo, right?

 

[MY1GDSM]

Buy my BB Scm5031re setup it bolts right up.......

 

[JusMX141]

Buy my BB Scm5031re setup it bolts right up.......

Only two things wrong with that deal:

1) It's ball bearing (not rebuildable).
2) It's made by PTE (not reliable).

 

[MY1GDSM]

Wrong twice
The 5031's are built off a orginaly Stnd. bearing turbo so they are Rebuildable ... and anybody that knows Garrett turbos know they have one of the best historys of Reliability...
And as far as PTE being reliable that realy is a matter of opinion
Ask blcknspo0ln how his Scm5031re is holding up after the last 2-3 years...

 

[joe sobo]

i had horrible experience with a pte. do not reccomend

 

[MY1GDSM]

Any Vendor or retailer is gonna have good & bad reviews it is realy a matter of opinion Take Slowboy I've had a few bad Exp.'s with them (exp.Wrong part,Slow shipping,Bad customer service) Then again I've heard people say nothing but good things about them

 

[JusMX141]

anybody that knows Garrett turbos know they have one of the best historys of Reliability...

Contrarily, I believe Garrett's are a rather unreliable option when compared to a MHI turbo.

I have a buddy with a 6031E that doesn't last more than a thousand miles. I've rebuilt it four times now....we've tried oil supply from the filter housing, head, restrictor, no restrictor, inline filter (which has ALWAYS been clean everytime the turbo dies) and the thing still takes a dump anywhere from 800-1200 miles. He's had enough.


I'm glad Precision machined the housing and used a bearing cartridge that makes the SCM5031RE rebuildable....at least they attempted to do something right.


I can't say I've ever had a bad experience with SBR....but then again I haven't really dealt with them much either. They pay good for engine cores, and even honor store credit if you turn in block and head cores. I know someone that built a complete race motor from turning in engine cores at SBR. The one thing that drives me crazy about Slowboy is they've been rotating their sales staff quite a bit lately. Just when you get comfortable dealing with one person you'll call and they've moved on.

 

[MY1GDSM]

OK Fist it's not rebuildable ,then YOU say you've rebuilt them Hum


Maybe there's Something you've over looked from the start??? or Maybe he did'nt Prime it before he ran it?
I'm, Not to saying anything about you skills as a rebuilder, But Did you have VSR to Balance it after you took it apart?

:EDIT: I see it a 6031E Not 6031RE .... Ball bearing turbos can take alot more Abuse than a Stnd. One can.

 

[JusMX141]

"Priming" isn't necessary....all of my turbos are assembled with engine assembly lube to prevent a dry startup, and the turbo has oil as soon as the engine fires.

There's never been damage to either of the wheels (until the last time it died), which never prompted a need to rebalance. Turbo Balancing


As far as ball bearing turbos being more durable....I'll forward your thoughts to Holset and see what they think. I consider ball bearing turbos to be the MOST fragile, with a zero-tolerance for oil contamination....but to each their own. You spend your money how you choose, and I'll do the same.

 

[MY1GDSM]

DO THAT and Next time don't Chime in with this B.S.

Only two things wrong with that deal:

1) It's ball bearing (not rebuildable).
2) It's made by PTE (not reliable).

I consider ball bearing turbos to be the MOST fragile, with a zero-tolerance for oil contamination

Honestly, Why Because you can't Rebuild them?

O ya look at this Page on Holsets Web page
www.cummins.com/turbos - new bearing systems



Also With that G-pop shop link... I clicked on it, the most I could come up with is that you send the turbos "You" rebuild to them?

Also the Statment they make
"you were careful to mark the position of the wheels in relationship to each other prior to disassembly and rebuilding, and then realigned these marks upon reassembly"

That is BUY NO MEANS a Fool Prof Method...

 

[94Jettameowpsst]

I have done 50+ antilag launches over 20psi on my scm6152 and theres still NO shaft play, seriously, there's none at all. But in all honestly, the turbo sucks. Its got slow ass spool bc of the 35r comp wheel and it definitely chokes out above 25psi because of the mitsubishi housing. The compressor wheel is just too big for the turbine/housing combo.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Ya the 61's suck on the street

 

[JusMX141]

Also With that G-pop shop link... I clicked on it, the most I could come up with is that you send the turbos "You" rebuild to them?

Also the Statment they make
"you were careful to mark the position of the wheels in relationship to each other prior to disassembly and rebuilding, and then realigned these marks upon reassembly"

That is BUY NO MEANS a Fool Prof Method...

I posted the link with the intent that you may understand that you don't need to balance the parts every time the turbo is disassembled. I haven't sent them any of my parts to be balanced.

What's your take on the MHI turbos that come from the factory component-balanced only, yet are able to clock hundreds of thousands of reliable miles? What have you done in the past on all the turbos you've rebuilt?

 

[MY1GDSM]

Ok that makes alot of, ... well no it does'nt but....
O well ...
Happy Turkeyday

 

[kraka]

You do realize the 5027E is a T3/T4 turbo, right?

He said he was told that it bolts to a stock o2/mani aka the 'SCM', not an SC50.